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gregt848 · 10-03-2009, 02:15 PM

What kind of siding is that? Is that the fiber cement. Holds paint great if it is. I also really like the color and the contrast. Big different from the white/white vinyl. What did use use for new construction windows and where did you get them from? I am right donw the street and curious where you get all your materials. Looks really good!

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-03-2009, 03:10 PM

Thanks
The siding is Hardie board cement siding
I bought the pre-painted Boothbay Blue from Home Depot
Buying a full pallet was less $$, it worked out to about $5.58 per board
Lowes wanted $10 a board
I ended up with 122 pieces free (about 6 square) from someone who just finished a house (flipping it) & had extra
It was the color we wanted, so that pretty much sealed the decision

I bought most all of my windows thru Home Depot - Special order 10 at a time is the least expensive - Andersen 400 series
I opted for the more energy efficient glass to qualify for Tax credits

I also bought a lot off Craigslist at extremely rediced prices
They were brand new, some still in the box

A lot of my lumber came from Home Depot, 10% off coupons & 6-12 months interest free to pay for it
Very little from Lowes - no 10% off & no interest free periods
Main LVL beams & some other lumber were from Hingham Lumber

gregt848 · 10-03-2009, 06:14 PM

That is a nice a color, I'll have to keep it in mind when I get to that point. For the future, you can get a 10% off Lowes coupon by going to google and typing lowes moving coupon and they will email it to you. I have done it many times and works everything. Takes a week or so to get it emailed though. Only thing is HD won't take it cause its an email print out like they do for a "real" coupon, so you'll have to use it at lowes.
Are the Andersen's at HD the same quality as buying them elsewhere? Someone once told me that they make a different product for the box stores. I am shopping for five windows right now and haven't checked out HD get but maybe I will. I was planning on going done to Cape Cod Lumber one day this week. I really just want efficient windows that are quality and I can get the tax credit for. Those are wood interiors right? I originally wanted vinyl for less maintenance and they tend to a little cheaper allow I know the wood interiors are indeed nicer windows. Any other info on the windows?

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-03-2009, 08:10 PM

I've heard the same thing about HD Andersen's, but do not have any info to prove/disprove
I do know that the store stock TW3046's I bought in 2007 have an OSB board near the bottom sill
The ones I have bought recently have solid wood
But I'm pretty sure I bought a Store stock window recently that also had this solid wood
So possibly they just changed the way they make them

I have a few Pella's just due to the size of the openings
I can't say I really like them & won't buy Pella's any more
My slider in my sunroom is Pella & the outside metal "trim" seperated from the glass on both door sections

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-04-2009, 06:05 PM

The attic stairs are finally in
It will make things much easier getting up to the attic now
Temp treads are down

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-04-2009, 06:11 PM

I have some more walls to build now to close in the stairs
Our old stove will be installed, this will be the bar area
To the right of the stove will be a 15-16" counter & 1/2 wall
The bar will be out from the stairway wall
So if you are standing at the stove & turn around the bar will be there
There will be a bar sink under tha bar
I was not planning on hot & cold water/sink out there
But might as well do it since the stove will be there
The bar will be about 10-11' long

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-05-2009, 07:16 PM

Today's the 1 year anniversary of when I started the addition
Lousy winter with lots of snow & a wet Spring means I am not even close to where I wanted to be
But it's closed in, siding starting to go on, almost ready to start the electric
I bought 100 single boxes (~25% discount on bulk then another 10% off)...I guess I'll have enough
Instead of every 12' I will have outlets every 4-5'
Plus I cut the backs off them & use them for Network/phone/cable boxes

I should have my last 3 windows for the Dining room in the next 2 weeks
That will be the last of the windows !!
Then I can build the small roof on the front of the garage

Tigwldr · 10-05-2009, 08:09 PM

They let you cut the boxes out up there? I was gonna do that in one box to make the wires going into it easier to work with. Electrician had a fit and so no way that's against our codes here.

GBR in WA · 10-05-2009, 08:14 PM

I haven't heard from KC for a while so I'll give you a heads up, Dave. If your treads are under 10" deep, 2006 (11" 2003) IRC, you need a nosing on the treads. "311.5.3.3 Profile.
The radius of curvature at the leading edge of the tread shall be no greater than 9/16 inch
(14.3 mm). A nosing not less than 3/4 inch (19 mm) but not more than 1 1/4 inch (32
mm) shall be provided on stairways with solid risers."
Check with your local B.D. first, as you may get by without for attic stairs.
Now's the time to add a 2x6 or x4 to the center stringer for strength there because with the notching it's only a 2x6-. I think you might be making a lot of trips with those Holiday decorations.....
Don't forget a fan over the sink if you add one, per code.
Remember your outside recept's and spigots on blocks or however, before siding.
Did the window company mess up on your order? That would be a first! Lol
Be safe, Gary

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-05-2009, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigwldr

They let you cut the boxes out up there? I was gonna do that in one box to make the wires going into it easier to work with. Electrician had a fit and so no way that's against our codes here.

Only for phone/cable/network
NO electric in these boxes at all
If you look at HD the "low voltage" boxes are just trim rings for attaching a face plate & they want $1.19 each

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-05-2009, 08:52 PM

I made the stairs to the attic 10" deep without the nosing
So I'll have 10 3/4" once I put the final treads down
Those are only Temp treads until I'm finished construction
I wanted plenty of tread

Yeah - lots of trips up & down & out onto the roof with decorations
But the attic will be used for "off season" decorations - Halloween & Christmas will be in the garage, basement, or in 3 other storage areas
Off season = Easter, Valentines day, July 4th/Memorial Day, BDay stuff etc
Plus roof decorations will stay up there
--My Nativity setup will take up quite a bit of room

I will actually be building a wall at the ~6th stair to enclose the bottom part of the stairs
Then another wall that will be near the 2nd step from the top
So the "unsupported" span (diagonally) will be ~7'
Once the wall near the top is built I am going to put 2x8's as beam between the small wall on the left & the new wall on the right
Then on top of the 2x8's will be the wall to enclose the top part of the steps
The middle riser will also be re-inforced with a 2x8
The riser against the house wall is lagged into every 2x4 in the wall with LVL trussloks
The opposite riser also has trusslocks into that short 2x4 wall
Plus both have additional nails holding them in
Since the attic will be unheated I want as much insulation as I can fit under the stairs

So when I said the stairs are "done/in" I was actually wrong
I should have said the Temp stairs are setup

I have an 8' cabinet outside that I am going to mock-up as a bar & see how it looks
I need to decide how much room I want behind the bar
Is there any code that specifies min area?
Since there will be a stove, microwave, small fridge & small sink I am wiring this as a kitchen
At least 2 small appliance circuits, microwave dedicated, another for the fridge + spare outlet on same

Question.... I've never heard of any fan required over a sink?

The windows were special ordered - I went with the higher insulated glass to qualify for the Tax credit
Not that I really needed them to qualify, I am well beyond the $4500/$1500 shutoff point

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-07-2009, 01:30 PM

My door to the roof
Original plans I thought I would only have a 3' x5' opening to get to the roof
But with the foundation raised 1' & slightly taller walls I had enough to fit a full size door in
HD special clearance - $100
Whoever made it added 1/2" too much on the latch side of the frame
So a special order door was returned & marked way down
I bought it, took the latch frame apart, cut 1/2" off & put it back together
Good as new, it's a 34" door & lets the sun in
Only a small octagon window facing east, no windows facing South, 1 large window facing West & 2 small windows facing North
There are 2 venting skylights that face South

So the attic gets plenty of light all day

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-07-2009, 11:15 PM

I just tried re-installing my orginal Design software
It did not work too well under Xp, still had it on a laptop with Windows 2000
The newer version worked on XP, but I didn't like it as much
The old version works on Vista, help doesn't work
But I've used it so much I know how to work things
I've laid out the Great room, windows doors etc & I'm working on a mock up of the bar & seating

Eh.....spoke too soon...it crashed, but I can still open my plan
See if it works tomorrow

WaldenL · 10-08-2009, 09:05 AM

1) Move to Windows 7 when it comes out, it's everything Vista should have been. And stable to boot.

2) What software do you use?

**Scuba_Dave** · 10-08-2009, 09:10 AM

Broderbund 3D Home Architext Deluxe
Its pretty old, at least 10 years I'd say
So I'm not too upset it crashes on Crapista, it did the same on XP
I have a newer version & another version from Punch