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Old 06-13-2010, 07:47 PM   #1366
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Gulf Island Building.


Do you get many critters on that Island of yours?

BTW, one of my favorite threads... love it and your work!

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Old 06-14-2010, 12:42 AM   #1367
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Gulf Island Building.


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Originally Posted by Ivy View Post
Do you get many critters on that Island of yours?

BTW, one of my favorite threads... love it and your work!
Hi Ivy: Forgive me if I'm mistaken, but I haven't seen you on the thread before, have I? Welcome indeed!

And many thanks for your kind comments.

Critters...I gather you mean the four legged kind...

Most of the islands locally have such animals as deer and 'coons, neither of which we have here. Very rarely, we hear reports of a deer being sighted on this island (1.4 miles long by .4 mile wide) but in the 13+ years we have been here we have never seen one ourselves.

Lots of squirrels, who love to leave little piles from the cones they eat all over the place. We do get the occasional mink, usually in pairs. But they tend to run away quickly if we are outside.

The big river otters - as opposed to sea otters - are routinely spotted here up on land. Sometimes we will see 6 or 7 running along our lower pathway to get to the pond.

From time to time, up at the big pond area in the middle of the island, beavers will make their appearance known. I'm told that there is one beaver there now, but I haven't seen it yet this year. We are hoping that a second one will arrive to keep the first one company. Sometimes they stay for a few years, then just disappear. We like it when they are here as they keep the beaver dam in good shape at the west end of the pond, and this helps keep the water level up into the later summer months.

In the event of fire anywhere in the central island area, this is our water supply for the fire pumps.

Other than that, lots of field mice and fat grass snakes. Other animals such as cougars, foxes, coyotes, bears and so on are confined to Vancouver Island and the mainland.

And we have a terrific variety of birds! Something like 87 different by our latest count.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:03 AM   #1368
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Gulf Island Building.


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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
In general the products are coded/dated. The techie at the respective manufacturers will tell you what the codes mean if you call them.

Here's a "rub" I can't seem to explain nor can/will anyone else. I have noticed repeatedly that those kind of products I purchase from Home Depot do not in fact have any codes on the bags in a lot of cases. I wonder if that is done intentionally. Yes sir, I am somewhat cynical at times. Without codes and verifiable manufacturing dates HD would not have to deal with the return of outdated products or a project failure due to using outdated products. They just sell everything that comes through their doors and the public would never be the wiser.

Oh well...just a thought from a distrusting installer that was recently burned using some Custom Level Quick that was old and outdated.
Bud, yet again I must say thanks.

I checked all the bags of thinset on hand, but I have been unable to find any dates at all on the products from HD. Therefore, they have now been relegated to the category of "suspect" at best. I don't think they will get used.

Today, there was a very brief lull in the wind - so over to town to the real tile store. They handle Mapei products and I would say there must have been perhaps a dozen different types of thinset on hand.

I got one of the fellows there to educate me a little more, told him what I was doing, and just grabbed a couple of bags he recommended so I don't get stopped in mid stream here.

I specifically asked about the dates, and yes Mapei has codes for that. He said we go through this stuff by the pallet load so quickly that none of it comes even close to getting old.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:38 AM   #1369
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Gulf Island Building.


There is a very tricky (for me) corner section of raised tiling that has to be done in the corner of the countertop behind the sink.

The sink itself is one of those glass things that perches above the countertop.

The faucet is an ebay score which goes quite well with the sink, at least the missus thinks so.

The faucet requires that two small holes be provided through the tile and mounting board underneath, as well as room for the two water lines. This was going to be the trickiest part.

First thing was to cut the wood to fit the corner.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:42 AM   #1370
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Gulf Island Building.


The long side of that triangle is only about a foot. So making allowances for the easyboard and the tile, I pre-cut everything for the corner.

The easyboard cuts with one slice right through with a utility knife (according to the company). Some of us need two passes. With the curved cut at the front of the countertop, It needed to be done freehand and therefore slowly.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:50 AM   #1371
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Gulf Island Building.


Somewhere I have a special drill bit which will go through glass and tile. Naturally, I am unable to find it when I need it.

The faucet requires three holes, the two bolt holes being critical to get in just the right spot.

Using regular masonry bits (I can almost hear Bud cringing) I tried a couple of test holes in some scrap tile. First I sharpened the bits.

OK, the first hole wasn't too bad. Part way through the second hole, the tile broke in half.

Try again...re-sharpen the bit(s)...try a new hole. That's OK, second hole, that's OK as well. The third hole - which was just a starter hole for the water lines - got bogged down part way through. So I changed the bit and finished the hole, no problem.

By now I realise that these carbide tipped bits have very limited capacity in porcelain. Again re-sharpened both bits, and now using my pre-cut piece of tile I just drilled one hole, and then changed the bit. That worked fine.

Next was to increase the hole for the water lines, and this got a bit sticky.
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Last edited by cocobolo; 06-15-2010 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Really must learn to spell
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:55 AM   #1372
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Gulf Island Building.


As you can see, it obviously ended up working out OK.

What was difficult was trying to get the blade off that little saw, then threaded through the hole and the blade re-fitted to the saw again.

I tried a screw clamp, nope - wouldn't do it. A quick action clamp - same thing. Finally resorted to putting the saw in the bench vise (no kidding) and got the blade off that way. I couldn't believe how much tension that little saw has.

Once threaded through the starter hole, the cutting proceeded without difficulty. But it did take awhile. Cutting porcelain is very slow indeed.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:58 AM   #1373
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The next step was to test the fit of the faucet on to the tile and the top piece of the raised step. I didn't worry about the easyboard at this point.

Views here from both top and bottom with water lines attached.
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:02 AM   #1374
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Gulf Island Building.


There is an O-ring which fits into a groove in the bottom of the faucet, the purpose of which is to keep water from getting into the countertop.

Strictly as an afterthought, I checked to see how it was going to fit.

Not too well!

Now, this doesn't fall into quite the same category as Dan's sink troubles (for those of you who followed that saga!) but it was annoying none the less.
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:06 AM   #1375
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Gulf Island Building.


Some kind soul at the factory had mistakenly put the wrong size into the package.

Since I was going to get across to town today (weather permitting) for new thinset, I took the wrong O-ring with me, along with the proper measurement, to try and find one which would fit.

As luck would have it, the local hardware store had ONE left in the right size!
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:59 AM   #1376
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Gulf Island Building.


Quote:
Using regular masonry bits (I can almost hear Bud cringing)
Chills ran up my spine when I first read that! I was waiting for you to get out the hammer-drill and go for it.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:33 AM   #1377
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Gulf Island Building.


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Chills ran up my spine when I first read that! I was waiting for you to get out the hammer-drill and go for it.
Well, I did think about it, but then I thought Nah, Bud definitely wouldn't approve of THAT!
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:37 AM   #1378
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Gulf Island Building.


I have just spent the better part of an hour going through the Mapei website. Wow! Really good stuff.

I'm pleased to learn that I now have the right thinset for my current application.

I note that Mapei considers any wall tile over 10" x 10" and floor tile over 6" x 6" ( or was it 6" x 8"?) to be large format.

They have a specific thinset for each of those particular applications.

The local tile store also sells the hardibacker for wall and floor installs, so I rather imagine that will be what I shall use in future. Also was on the h/b site just now and have learned a lot.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:43 PM   #1379
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Gulf Island Building.


Talking Point!

Various thinsets have differing characteristics.

For example,
unmodified thinset has components that will allow the thinset to dry/cure on its own chemically. Once activated with water the curing process begins almost immediately. This isn't to say the products don't have a workable pot-life because they certainly do. When used on a substrate that has the ability to wick-away moisture the drying process speeds up. If the tile bisque also draws/wicks a little moisture then all aspects of curing are quickly set into motion.

When used between two products such as a plastic crack membrane and a porcelain tile the wicking is non-existent and the curing process slows slightly but non-the-less takes place on its own.

On the other hand,
modified thinset requires an ability to evaporate moisture for a proper cure. The larger the tiles the slower the ability to evaporate moisture because the evaporation process must reach out for a grout joint to be able to allow the moisture to escape.

Team modified thinset with a plastic crack membrane and a porcelain tile which has an absorption rate of only one half of one percent and the curing/drying process slows tremendously. Hence smaller tiles cure/dry quicker than larger tiles.

This is why most of the membrane manufacturers want you to use unmodified thinset to install your tile over thier products.

It's not that the modified thinset won't cure/dry if given enough time, it's because in today's "fast-track-building" practices, over-night or twenty-four hours just isn't enough time for the modified thinset to cure to a point that foot traffic can't compromise the bond. Everyone seems to want everything to happen right now!

It is my understanding that modified thinsets are actually made with co-polymers. It is when the water is added that the co-polymers become polymers. This is why modified thinset must be allowed to slake (stand) for a time then be remixed for it to unleash its magic.

This is a basic explanation of what takes place and my knowledge is minimal. I have now exhausted most every micron of knowledge I possess on the subject.

I know I know...TOO MUCH INFORMATION!

Last edited by Bud Cline; 06-15-2010 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:12 PM   #1380
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Gulf Island Building.


That faucet is one of those "Fancy Smancy" Waterfall, LED lit things isn't it? I see them advertised here sometimes. That will be so 70's in 20 years. dorf dude...

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