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Old 02-25-2013, 10:47 AM   #7411
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Hi there fix...

Not quite. A few of my friends know that I managed to get a good dose of carbon monoxide poisoning, so now might be a good time to let everyone know what they should NOT do if their house is heated with two wood stoves.

I have two wood stoves in here and I spent plenty of time making sure I had the house well and truly sealed up so as not to lose any heat. I made the nearly fatal mistake of forgetting to allow for combustion air for the stoves. It's not like I haven't been burning wood for the past 40 years so I definitely know better than that.

With both stoves running and no fresh air coming in it didn't take long for all the oxygen to get burned up and leave me with extremely bad quality air to breathe. That also explains why neither of the stoves would burn properly - no incoming makeup air.

Luckily for me I got a call from a good friend who is an industrial first aid guy, and it only took him about two minutes to figure out the problem. Ten minutes after I was off the phone I had a hole cut in the wall by the wood stove in the breakfast nook and a hole bored through one of the French doors by the stove in the living room. Problem solved.

And then it became a matter of getting the CO out of my system so I could recover. CO has a 230 times greater affinity to stick to your blood cells than does oxygen, leaving no room for the oxygen to attach, and it takes awhile to get the CO removed. Again as luck would have it I have an oxygen tank here for my welder, so I was able to use that three times a day until I started to feel better. Oxygen is the prescribed treatment for CO poisoning. Other than that, as much time as possible spent outside seems to be doing the trick.

Of course the weather has been anything but co-operative, as I'm dead certain you know.

If you really want to scare yourself, look up carbon monoxide poisoning on the Wiki. Believe me, it's no fun.

Not completely better yet, but it shouldn't be too much longer now. I expect to be going off the island for a couple of weeks soon for a change of environment.

I see we are blessed with big winds for this week and wet weather for the upcoming 7 days. Just checked and there is officially 86 km's of wind here right now...and building. I won't be going anywhere in that mess.

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #7412
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Wow Keith,

Glad you got that figured out and are on the road to recovery.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:17 AM   #7413
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Wow Keith,

Glad you got that figured out and are on the road to recovery.
Thanks Bill, we estimate that there might have been about 6,000 times the normal concentration of CO in the house at the peak. It should be right around .1 parts per million. Close to 600 ppm in here at one point. No surprise that I could hardly move.

If anyone is concerned that they might have excess CO, get yourselves a detector. Do a little checking on Google first, as some of them seem to give out an awful lot of false alarms, which really doesn't help you. In Canada, Canadian Tire of all places have a couple that are OK. I'm sure you could find one at most drug stores or a well equipped hardware/building supply place.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:33 AM   #7414
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So VERY GLAD to hear you are doing well now that the problem has been identified and solved. We don't need close calls like that in our lives. On a lighter note I am on the final stages of finishing one of my 2 gates. When I get a chance I might post a pic for your approval.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:03 PM   #7415
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So VERY GLAD to hear you are doing well now that the problem has been identified and solved. We don't need close calls like that in our lives. On a lighter note I am on the final stages of finishing one of my 2 gates. When I get a chance I might post a pic for your approval.
Having seen your work before, I hardly think you need my approval!
But by all means put up a pic, that would be great.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:15 PM   #7416
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Buddy, it is good to see your smiling face here again, we hope and pray for a speedy recovery Keith. That short vacation coming up will do wonders for you.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:13 PM   #7417
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Buddy, it is good to see your smiling face here again, we hope and pray for a speedy recovery Keith. That short vacation coming up will do wonders for you.
Thank you Sir Jim...I think the worst is over. I finally got my balance back yesterday.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:50 PM   #7418
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Ok then here is my pic, it is not stained yet so you must forgive me for that.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:52 PM   #7419
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it is 100% Cedar, even made the tongue and grove for the field. The top middle and bottom boards are mortised and tenoned as well as glued. I might even put in some dowels with fence post style caps on them.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:19 PM   #7420
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Nice gate...very nice gate...in fact, extremely nice gate.

I'm sure you've used waterproof glue, but your idea of adding dowels is a good one. The very nature of cedar is such that water will find its' way into every little nook and cranny and eventually it will try to separate the glue from the wood. Even epoxy isn't immune to that.

If it is at all possible to use a waterproof finish, varnish for example, the gate will last much longer. Yes it does require the ever popular fresh coat every year. Gates do take quite a pounding over a period of time, which is why time spent on a decent finish will always pay off in the long run.

Let's see if we can stand this guy upright...
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:44 AM   #7421
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Thanks Keith for standing it upright, my head was getting a little tilted. I have used titebond #3 as well as make sure the top and bottom are stepped down mortise joints. I am tossing up using teak or maple for the pegs, as I have both woods available to me. The top caps I plan on anodizing black so they will pop visually, believe it will give it somewhat of an arts and craft look.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:16 AM   #7422
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Understood on the Titebond and the joints.

I know that the manufacturer says that glue is waterproof, and given that a gate will only get rained on and the glue joint itself won't actually be submerged in water, it may survive OK. However, don't put 100% faith in that waterproofing ability with cedar. It is one of the more difficult woods to keep water out of. Ask any boat builder out there. In fact, it is the natural tendency of cedar to expand considerably when it is wet that is used to advantage by boat builders.

I would still try to get a good finish on the wood to shed as much water as possible. Either that, or build a roof over it!

If you have to use either teak or maple, pick the teak. It will survive outside far better.

I love the idea of the black anodizing. Some of the Greene and Greene houses used to use ebony for plugs, which really stood out nicely. G & G, as I'm sure you know, were masterful proponents of the Arts and Crafts movement.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:09 PM   #7423
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Funny thing about a roof..... There is a possibility that I may be putting a roof over the gate, something oriental ( wife is Japanese). She was hinting of something along those lines. So we will have to see what this will bring. YES Keith I am aware of G+G style, there are some awesome creations in their houses.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:17 PM   #7424
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Funny thing about a roof..... There is a possibility that I may be putting a roof over the gate, something oriental ( wife is Japanese). She was hinting of something along those lines. So we will have to see what this will bring. YES Keith I am aware of G+G style, there are some awesome creations in their houses.
Now you're hitting on one of my passions. Japanese gardens have always had a soft spot in my heart, and along with that goes the Japanese style of garden structures. I think I must have a couple of dozen books here on the subject, and in particular I really like the shingle covered, curved top roofs which are often used over a Japanese gate. They have such a timeless quality to them.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:40 PM   #7425
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I could not agree with you more Keith. My concern is that the mix of a Japanese theme with G+G might not be a good one. If it was done well enough it just might be pulled off. When one looks at ancient oriental structures one can see the G+G peg style on doors and buildings, but would that be enough to tie it all together? Not too sure about it, and once it was finished it's a little too late to change things.

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