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Old 11-01-2012, 01:22 AM   #7051
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Gulf Island Building.


Plumbing isn't one of my favorite things to do especially if it is under the house. I hope it goes smooth for you buddy.

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Old 11-01-2012, 08:28 AM   #7052
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Those fixtures are available in two basic types. Yours are "surface mount" but mounting to a slick surface tile using thinset may not be the best idea. This is why I suggested cutting out some tile depending on what the substrate is made of. This way thinset could be adhered to the substrate. However the tile would not have to be cut-away to perfectly match the fixture, in fact, that's not how those are intended to work.

A second type of the same style fixture is called a "clincher" and this would require tile to be cut away without question. The backside of the clincher has an extended mounting face (basically the thickness of most tiles) that is adhered to the substrate. Thinset is generally used and especially in wet areas such as showers and tub surrounds. Using any ole (construction-adhesive) in any wet area isn't generally recommended.

So...yes, those particular fixtures are "surface mount" style fixtures and yes they can be mounted with construction-adhesive, but not in a wet area.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:48 AM   #7053
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Gulf Island Building.


Bud, the soap dish I am planning to mount to the left of the vessel sink on the small counter. It shouldn't really be a "wet" area, as in a shower.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:53 AM   #7054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJim View Post
Plumbing isn't one of my favorite things to do especially if it is under the house. I hope it goes smooth for you buddy.
There are two things I will have to get under the house for Jim. One will be the connecting of the drains from the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower and utility room (washing machine) and the other will be to hang the propane lines on to the framing.

Not looking forward to either. They will both have to wait for a day when it isn't raining. There isn't much room to get at any of this stuff.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:59 AM   #7055
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Gulf Island Building.


I see a couple more 'quakes up at the Charlottes, a 4.9 and 5.1. They are all in the same place, so I hope the plate finishes moving soon so that things will settle down up there.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:05 AM   #7056
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Quote:
Bud, the soap dish I am planning to mount to the left of the vessel sink on the small counter. It shouldn't really be a "wet" area, as in a shower.
Understood.
My "wet area" comments were for the benefit of those reading and not necessarily participating.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:08 AM   #7057
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Gulf Island Building.


I have a big favor to ask of the readers of this thread. No, it isn't going to cost any of you a single cent, but your vote will go a long way toward saving a wonderful old locomotive.

This has to be one of the biggest DIY projects I know of.

The old locomotive, built in 1907 was recently saved from the cutting torch and hopefully will be restored to her former glory.

An insurance company has stepped forward any may provide the necessary funding to do this job, but we need to get everyone's vote in to get her at the top of the list.

It is all explained here https://www.avivacommunityfund.org/ideas/acf15411

Please help us out by registering on the site and casting your vote each day until November 5th. Nobody is soliciting anyone for a single dime. It is only your vote we need.

Many thanks.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:10 AM   #7058
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Understood.
My "wet area" comments were for the benefit of those reading and not necessarily participating.
Roger that...I thought as much.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:39 AM   #7059
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Gulf Island Building.


That would be cool as hell to be restored. They have an old steam locomotive on display in the small speedtrap (er, town) of Newhalem in the North Cascades (to Canadians, they'd probably be the South Cascades). The whole town consists of Seattle City Light employees, there's a dam up there. Anyway, this locomotive is fully restored in a park, and kids are encouraged to climb all over it, ring the bell, etc. We always stop there when we go over the North Cascades Highway.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:45 AM   #7060
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Gulf Island Building.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
I have a big favor to ask of the readers of this thread. No, it isn't going to cost any of you a single cent, but your vote will go a long way toward saving a wonderful old locomotive.

This has to be one of the biggest DIY projects I know of.

The old locomotive, built in 1907 was recently saved from the cutting torch and hopefully will be restored to her former glory.

An insurance company has stepped forward any may provide the necessary funding to do this job, but we need to get everyone's vote in to get her at the top of the list.

It is all explained here https://www.avivacommunityfund.org/ideas/acf15411

Please help us out by registering on the site and casting your vote each day until November 5th. Nobody is soliciting anyone for a single dime. It is only your vote we need.

Many thanks.
Done deal, our son's F-I-L is an artist who draws nothing but the old locomotives, he gave us one of his drawings of the old Chattanooga Choo Choo, he is good.

Good gravy, those quakes aren't going to ever let up it looks like, that is unreal that they are still going on.

I am going to wear that picture of your plane out going back and looking at it, I think I just shorted out my keyboard droolin on ...
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:49 AM   #7061
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Gulf Island Building.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Those fixtures are available in two basic types. Yours are "surface mount" but mounting to a slick surface tile using thinset may not be the best idea. This is why I suggested cutting out some tile depending on what the substrate is made of. This way thinset could be adhered to the substrate. However the tile would not have to be cut-away to perfectly match the fixture, in fact, that's not how those are intended to work.

A second type of the same style fixture is called a "clincher" and this would require tile to be cut away without question. The backside of the clincher has an extended mounting face (basically the thickness of most tiles) that is adhered to the substrate. Thinset is generally used and especially in wet areas such as showers and tub surrounds. Using any ole (construction-adhesive) in any wet area isn't generally recommended.



So...yes, those particular fixtures are "surface mount" style fixtures and yes they can be mounted with construction-adhesive, but not in a wet area.
That second one is the ones I was talking about, I really didn't know there was surface mount types, but I do now. I may use them when we finally do get around to our bathroom, would roughing up the surface of the tiles make the adhesives hold better?
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:59 PM   #7062
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Gulf Island Building.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud Cline

Understood.
My "wet area" comments were for the benefit of those reading and not necessarily participating.
Thanks for looking out for us Bud!

Keith things are looking amazing! And I'm fascinated by the whole leaking boat sub-saga!
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:04 PM   #7063
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Gulf Island Building.


Quote:
That second one is the ones I was talking about, I really didn't know there was surface mount types, but I do now. I may use them when we finally do get around to our bathroom, would roughing up the surface of the tiles make the adhesives hold better?
Actually there is yet another style available. A third style is also a surface-mount that hangs on a metal clip screwed to the wall. The dish itself has a "V"-groove either cut or cast into the back of the dish that slips into the metal clip. Those are kind of a pain in the butt to install. After installation (no matter which is used) you would then caulk around the edges to keep moisture out and to supplement the attachment process.

Quote:
That second one is the ones I was talking about, I really didn't know there was surface mount types, but I do now. I may use them when we finally do get around to our bathroom, would roughing up the surface of the tiles make the adhesives hold better?
Absolutely yes.

Here's the basic deal. Today's world of tile sees an awful lot of porcelain tile being used. Porcelain tile is the least absorptive tile of all (basically) with an absorption rate of one-half-of-one percent when it comes to water. It only then stands to reason that if the tile won't absorb water it also won't necessarily absorb adhesive. If the tile has a glazed surface the issue is only magnified. Roughing the tile surface will help. In fact the more-course the "roughing-up" is the more surface area that is created for the adhesive to bond to.

It all has to do with creating the necessary "cohesive" ability of the materials to be joined.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:19 PM   #7064
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Gulf Island Building.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mort View Post
That would be cool as hell to be restored. They have an old steam locomotive on display in the small speedtrap (er, town) of Newhalem in the North Cascades (to Canadians, they'd probably be the South Cascades). The whole town consists of Seattle City Light employees, there's a dam up there. Anyway, this locomotive is fully restored in a park, and kids are encouraged to climb all over it, ring the bell, etc. We always stop there when we go over the North Cascades Highway.
Hi Mort: There are so few of these lovely old engines around these days that they have become legitimate tourist attractions. The city of Vancouver has the old number 374 restored, which was the first engine to pull a train in to Vancouver when the railroad was first built. There are small pockets of dedicated enthusiasts all over North America, and the good people at the museum are hoping to add this engine to the short list.

I forgot to mention that you can log in to your Facebook account and vote on there as well, I found that to be the easiest way. Email all your friends and see if you can get them to help as well...thanks! If we can get this to go viral the old girl at least has a chance.

Thank you all again.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:23 PM   #7065
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Thanks for looking out for us Bud!

Keith things are looking amazing! And I'm fascinated by the whole leaking boat sub-saga!
Hi Evstarr, welcome to the thread.

I'm afraid my best efforts have failed to stop the leak(s) in the sailboat, but it seems to have settled down to the point that as long as I pump it out once a month - or every time I go over to town, whichever comes first - it should make it through the winter. I can see the waterline on the boat from the house, so if I notice that it has gone underwater I will need to get out there PDQ and bail it out again.

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