Gulf Island Building.

Marbledust

I suppose that is the Big One....that got away!

cocobolo

Well, truth be known I have more than enough logs now anyway.

The biggest was the big old boom stick that my Neighbour brought in. It was over 68' and very big! Still do not have it all cut up.
Back to more tiling now.....

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Marbledust

I like your pond and nice looking bridges and walk ways there.I was wondering if you plan on raising Koi fish?

Bud Cline

An old trick before I finally invested good money in diamond hole saws was to use a grinder to grind away the backside of the tile. Grind a "saucer" in the backside wide enough and deep enough so-as to be able to eventually turn the tile over and gently break-your-way thru the tile surface until you have a hole of the required diameter. This is easy to do and saves having to make "in-road" cuts to facilitate grinding a needed hole from both sides of a cut you didn't want to make to begin with. Takes time but works great.

BigJim

I can see where that would take some time to do and patience also.

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Jim

cocobolo

I can see how that would work Bud. How would you get the edges of the hole smooth? I don't know if I have any sort of small grinding tool here that would work on tile. Would a small drum type sander do it?

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cocobolo

That's a question that everyone who sees the pond asks.

No, I don't plan on having any Koi here, I think the herons would have them in no time. Either them or the snakes that seem to like the pond now!

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Bud Cline

Oh hell I have used all kinds of weapons. Typically you have ground the bisque down to nothing much more than glaze. The glaze will chip easily. You can use almost any hard tool to ding the glaze into submission. The best control comes from a pair of tile-biters to round out the final edge. At that point a piece of broken tile makes a pretty good file and the files come in all sizes.

After all is in place a little caulk (tooled/finessed with a finger and then a damp sponge around the pipe) will dress the final edge and waterproof the crack at the same time. Thirty years ago that's how I did most of those type of cuts. There may be a slight learning-curve. Keep in mind there are also escutcheons available in a myriad of sizes.

cocobolo

Made an attempt to start on the bookcase assembly last night, but it was too dark to get much done. I did drill and countersink all the holes for the stainless steel screws, so that was a start.

In order to try and keep the drill holes straight, I sat a small square on the shelf and used it as a visual guide.

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cocobolo

Because if the somewhat weird shape of the shelves, I didn't want to trust my measurements to line up the holes to mount the vertical supports. So what I ended up doing was to sit each connecting pair of shelves together and just drill right through.

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cocobolo

Then when I flipped the lower shelf over, there was my guide hole from the underside ready to countersink. That should work OK.

So now I am off to do the assembly.

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cocobolo

I did try one support last night...but trying to see a pencil line on dark cedar isn't easy.

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cocobolo

In fact, seeing the pencil lines in daylight with the lights on wasn't so easy either!

What I ended up doing was to make a line on either side of the supports and then clamped them in place. That ended up working out all right.

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cocobolo

What I should say is it worked out most of the time.

I didn't ever bother to make a drawing for these bookshelves, and I didn't have any particular measurements in mind. Had I been a little more careful, I wouldn't have ended up with two supports with one very nearly on top of the other.

This made it very difficult to get at the screws (2" #10 stainless) with a hand screwdriver. A drill was completely out of the question.

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cocobolo

In the end, my stubbornness overcame my stupidity and it all went together.

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