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Old 11-12-2010, 11:47 AM   #3856
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What brand would that be Jim?

Varathane is a urethane of some sort, and it's water based. But still it is supposed to be 4 hours between coats. It does feel as though it is drier well before 4 hours if the temperature is up, but it's far more than a few minutes.

I don't believe that any of the water based products contain any UV inhibitors, which is why they aren't very long lasting outside.
Keith, I can't remember which brand I used on our T&G ceilings in the living room and kitchen but we prefinished before installing and before getting from one end of the board to the other the poly was dry. They recommend three coats but on the ceilings we just put two coats and they still look just like when we put them up.

I did use Minwax water based poly on our floors in the bedroom and while it did dry very quickly it said to wait 24 hours to walk on and three coats must be applied. The poly dried so fast it was hard to keep a wet edge and it must be installed with a wet edge or the over laps will show. Here is a link to the Minwax.

http://www.minwax.com/products/hardw...or_floors.html

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Old 11-12-2010, 12:04 PM   #3857
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Chevy produced their first OHV V-8 over a two year period in - are you ready for this...

Nineteen seventeen and nineteen eighteen. You can win bets with this one.
That just blew my mind, never would I have guessed it was that early. I wonder if there are any pictures of that motor online anywhere. Well come to think of it they had V12s and V16s way on back. Remember the straight block 8 Buick?

I got to thinking about the old chevy 6 cyl with the babbitt bearings. I had one that had way too much slack in it and it was knocking so I popped the pan and took an old leather shoe tongue and used it as a bearing, it lasted for a little while.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:35 PM   #3858
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Gulf Island Building.


Jim: I went through the Minwax product listing, and couldn't find anything that dried quite as fast as yours did. They say mostly two hours plus for a recoat time and longer to dry.

No doubt this is why the poly I put on the top wall wasn't really dry, but could be re-coated anyway.

I think the ambient temperature has a lot to do with it. If you were working in 80+ temps, yours would dry in nothing flat. I'm a good 20F below that, and it makes a big difference.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:40 PM   #3859
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I did a check on roughly how many more pieces of wood it will take to complete the top stairwell, and I think I must have miscalculated somewhat with my first estimate.

I am certain that more than half is done - certainly all the highest walls - and yet it still works out to another 360 pieces +-.

So, once again, all morning I have been cutting more wood. There isn't room to do much more than about 100 pieces at a time on the bench, so it will be a step by step thing 'til it's finished.

Perseverance will win the day....I hope!
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:24 PM   #3860
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Jim, I have some assembly pixs somewhere, but have not taken a complete car shot, for a very long time, since I am always taking apart....then much much later...putting it back together! I bought it just before I got married, and my bride to be helped me move it from behind a barn and bring in to another location. When I moved far North I built the frame and motor and trans , evrything except the body...in my basement..then had to take it all apart, and bring it to the Coast when I moved! I have been 'building" it for 34 years..two kids up through university, about 5 jobs, 1 marriage, and it still has not seen road time..but fore sure next winter is completion time ===8^)
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:43 PM   #3861
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Keith, " at 55hp the 1917 288 Cu Inch v/8 was hampered by it's 4.5:1 CR, and the fact that the spark plugs were on the inside of head. At 10 to 12 mpg. 1918 to 1919 were production years until the recession of 1922 stopped the production run. There are believed to be 5 restored units in USA, value unknown. 66 units were built in Canada. Cost $1385.00 in 1919!!!! It weighed 3200lbs, and was on a 120 inch wheelbase. It was Louis Chevrolets 'darling' design, but after a squabble with Billy Durant, later head of GM, he left the company before the motor was completed. (info circa 1970)
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:11 PM   #3862
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Jim, I have some assembly pixs somewhere, but have not taken a complete car shot, for a very long time, since I am always taking apart....then much much later...putting it back together! I bought it just before I got married, and my bride to be helped me move it from behind a barn and bring in to another location. When I moved far North I built the frame and motor and trans , everything except the body...in my basement..then had to take it all apart, and bring it to the Coast when I moved! I have been 'building" it for 34 years..two kids up through university, about 5 jobs, 1 marriage, and it still has not seen road time..but for sure next winter is completion time ===8^)
Scoggy
Good grief man, I've never heard so many excuses in all my life!

No wonder you never got over here for a visit this summer!

If you're going to be home next week, I plan on visiting to see this 34 year build. At least one thing has been a constant in your life!!!

I cannot wait to get over there...
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:16 PM   #3863
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Keith, " at 55hp the 1917 288 Cu Inch v/8 was hampered by it's 4.5:1 CR, and the fact that the spark plugs were on the inside of head. At 10 to 12 mpg. 1918 to 1919 were production years until the recession of 1922 stopped the production run. There are believed to be 5 restored units in USA, value unknown. 66 units were built in Canada. Cost $1385.00 in 1919!!!! It weighed 3200lbs, and was on a 120 inch wheelbase. It was Louis Chevrolets 'darling' design, but after a squabble with Billy Durant, later head of GM, he left the company before the motor was completed. (info circa 1970)
Cheers
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Thanks for all the info Scoggy...just think, if we had been around then we could have put in high compression pistons, hot cam, three two's, headers..........

I had no idea the cars weighed that much at the time. Compared to the "T" it must have seemed like a limousine.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:22 PM   #3864
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Jim: I went through the Minwax product listing, and couldn't find anything that dried quite as fast as yours did. They say mostly two hours plus for a recoat time and longer to dry.

No doubt this is why the poly I put on the top wall wasn't really dry, but could be re-coated anyway.

I think the ambient temperature has a lot to do with it. If you were working in 80+ temps, yours would dry in nothing flat. I'm a good 20F below that, and it makes a big difference.
Keith, I think you just hit the nail on the head, it was hot when we were putting the finish on the T&G because I remember sweating like crazy. That was the reason it was drying so fast. Man This ole timers is hittin me heavy.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:28 PM   #3865
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I did a check on roughly how many more pieces of wood it will take to complete the top stairwell, and I think I must have miscalculated somewhat with my first estimate.

I am certain that more than half is done - certainly all the highest walls - and yet it still works out to another 360 pieces +-.

So, once again, all morning I have been cutting more wood. There isn't room to do much more than about 100 pieces at a time on the bench, so it will be a step by step thing 'til it's finished.

Perseverance will win the day....I hope!
Man that is a bunch of work buddy, but it sure does look goooood. You know 360 pieces don't sound like many until you start making them.

I built a little roof over our outside swing and put cedar shingles on it. It took over 300 shingles and I thought I would never get through. I cut them on a band saw, which wasn't too hard but it sure was monotonous. Anything that looks good takes a lot of time and the better it looks the longer it takes and you are looking really good Keith.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:33 PM   #3866
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Originally Posted by scoggy View Post
Jim, I have some assembly pixs somewhere, but have not taken a complete car shot, for a very long time, since I am always taking apart....then much much later...putting it back together! I bought it just before I got married, and my bride to be helped me move it from behind a barn and bring in to another location. When I moved far North I built the frame and motor and trans , evrything except the body...in my basement..then had to take it all apart, and bring it to the Coast when I moved! I have been 'building" it for 34 years..two kids up through university, about 5 jobs, 1 marriage, and it still has not seen road time..but fore sure next winter is completion time ===8^)
Scoggy
Scoggy, when you get that bad boy built we for sure want a picture. You just can't rush perfection...
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:42 PM   #3867
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Keith, " at 55hp the 1917 288 Cu Inch v/8 was hampered by it's 4.5:1 CR, and the fact that the spark plugs were on the inside of head. At 10 to 12 mpg. 1918 to 1919 were production years until the recession of 1922 stopped the production run. There are believed to be 5 restored units in USA, value unknown. 66 units were built in Canada. Cost $1385.00 in 1919!!!! It weighed 3200lbs, and was on a 120 inch wheelbase. It was Louis Chevrolets 'darling' design, but after a squabble with Billy Durant, later head of GM, he left the company before the motor was completed. (info circa 1970)
Cheers
Scoggy
Wow, that was some low compression, I wonder where it's red line was. Being that low compression it should have been able wind out pretty good. I know one thing it would have never made it back where I was born and raised, when it rained about the only thing that moved was horses and mules because of the mud, come to think of it that is about all that moved anyway, there just weren't many cars around back out in the sticks then.

Thanks for the information Scoggy that was really interesting.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:58 PM   #3868
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Jim: I went through the Minwax product listing, and couldn't find anything that dried quite as fast as yours did. They say mostly two hours plus for a recoat time and longer to dry.

No doubt this is why the poly I put on the top wall wasn't really dry, but could be re-coated anyway.

I think the ambient temperature has a lot to do with it. If you were working in 80+ temps, yours would dry in nothing flat. I'm a good 20F below that, and it makes a big difference.
Keith, can Japan Dryer be added to poly? Or is that mostly for oil based paints?
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:10 PM   #3869
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Keith, can Japan Dryer be added to poly? Or is that mostly for oil based paints?
That is a very good question and I don't know the answer. I think it is just for oil based products. But I will endeavor to find out.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:40 PM   #3870
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Sorry, no pics. I'm knocking it off for the night, but will bring you up to date in the morning.

The fifth section is close to being done and it gets easier from there. Still maybe a couple of hundred more pieces to make up - perhaps half tomorrow and the rest on Sunday.

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