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Old 11-11-2010, 11:16 PM   #3841
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
I have the very last of the top cedar cut for the highest part of the wall. The final three pieces are glued together due to a lack of backing.

Second coat of finish went on the wall today as well, and I think that will be enough.
It is just amazing how the finish brings out the color, but it does. Just beautiful Keith.

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Old 11-11-2010, 11:28 PM   #3842
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It is just amazing how the finish brings out the color, but it does. Just beautiful Keith.
Very true...this is a Minwax product I am using this time. It just seems to be called fast drying Polyurethane. It is a slightly hazy yellowish colour in the can, unlike the Varathane which looks decidedly white.

Thus far, it seems to go on a little easier as well. Not that the Varathane is hard to put on, this seems quicker I guess.

The two coats have got the cedar looking pretty good, whereas the Varathane takes 3 coats.
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:47 PM   #3843
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Very true...this is a Minwax product I am using this time. It just seems to be called fast drying Polyurethane. It is a slightly hazy yellowish colour in the can, unlike the Varathane which looks decidedly white.

Thus far, it seems to go on a little easier as well. Not that the Varathane is hard to put on, this seems quicker I guess.

The two coats have got the cedar looking pretty good, whereas the Varathane takes 3 coats.
Anything that will save you any work is a big plus with all you have to do. What kind of fast drying poly do you have, is it a water base?
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:53 PM   #3844
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Anything that will save you any work is a big plus with all you have to do. What kind of fast drying poly do you have, is it a water base?
No, it's oil based Jim. The Varathane is water based, which is doubtless why it dries faster (4 hours).

I am finding that the Minwax effectively needs to be left for a day between coats. But with all I have to do elsewhere, that isn't really a concern.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:16 AM   #3845
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A few years back I tried to build out a 350 with the stock 10:1 comp ratio like back in the 60s, the block and heads were such sorry metal it burned the block in between two of the cylinders. The gas today isn't up to the high compression unless you buy AvGas or use a water injector to hold the ping down.
Lots of economy cars today running 10:1 or above on 87, it can be done easily with the right fuel and spark curves. You're not going to be able to stick a carburetor and points ignition on a clapped out 70s small block and run 10:1 though, that's a whole different deal.

$0.02.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:18 AM   #3846
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Hi Keith. I heard quite a few years ago that they had discovered a flaw in their storage method of submersion, and had to do the logs quickly, or lose their valu AFAIK.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:22 AM   #3847
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Hi Keith. I heard quite a few years ago that they had discovered a flaw in their storage method of submersion, and had to do the logs quickly, or lose their valu AFAIK.
Cheers
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Really? That would pose a real problem for them in that case.

The way I understand it is that they actually have several small lakes completely filled with big cants.

Some of the wood was due to be saved for temple re-construction. Haven't heard anything recently, but I guess I could check just for the heck of it.

BTW, how's the car coming?
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:27 AM   #3848
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Lots of economy cars today running 10:1 or above on 87, it can be done easily with the right fuel and spark curves. You're not going to be able to stick a carburetor and points ignition on a clapped out 70s small block and run 10:1 though, that's a whole different deal.

$0.02.
If you are referring to the modern FI system and electronic ignition, then I would have to agree with you brons.

I think most guys today who are building a SBC - while they may still use a carb - would also have long ago switched to a modern ignition. As long as the spark advance remains very mild, you'd probably be OK.

When we used to race donkey's years ago, we could get Sunoco 105 octane at the pump. Made for a great race day!
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:43 AM   #3849
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Keith, I believe it was either 1928 0r 1932, and although it was dropped from production, Henry Ford got wind of it, and that helped to spur on the development of the 'flatty' v/8, for '32! It was engineered by the same guy who eventually developed the auto matic for GM, as well as the self starter (Kittering??) I built a '66 Nova 2 door wagon, with a tricarbed , cammed, headered, 327, with a T-10 4 speed, and a 4:35 posi. It was the lowest level of could buy option,and I used to love to take my wife out on the old highway where the 4 lanes ran past the Dairy farm on the way to Chemainus, and stop on highway, rev it to red line, 'pop' the clutch, and feel the steering get way light, while her eyes got big like saucers! Guess I will be able to do same with my '38 Chev Coupe.....when I get it finished =====8^)
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:57 AM   #3850
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Keith, I believe it was either 1928 0r 1932, and although it was dropped from production, Henry Ford got wind of it, and that helped to spur on the development of the 'flatty' v/8, for '32! It was engineered by the same guy who eventually developed the auto matic for GM, as well as the self starter (Kittering??) I built a '66 Nova 2 door wagon, with a tricarbed , cammed, headered, 327, with a T-10 4 speed, and a 4:35 posi. It was the lowest level of could buy option,and I used to love to take my wife out on the old highway where the 4 lanes ran past the Dairy farm on the way to Chemainus, and stop on highway, rev it to red line, 'pop' the clutch, and feel the steering get way light, while her eyes got big like saucers! Guess I will be able to do same with my '38 Chev Coupe.....when I get it finished =====8^)
Cheers
Scoggy
Getting closer...but it was way before 1928!
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:53 AM   #3851
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Lots of economy cars today running 10:1 or above on 87, it can be done easily with the right fuel and spark curves. You're not going to be able to stick a carburetor and points ignition on a clapped out 70s small block and run 10:1 though, that's a whole different deal.

$0.02.
I found that out the hard way. How do they cut the ping out now days running that low of octane? Today's cars and back then cars are worlds apart. I have got to put an intake gasket on our 2000 Nissan which has only 79,000 miles, man what a mess getting that thing off and back on right, nothing like the old days.
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:56 AM   #3852
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Keith, I believe it was either 1928 0r 1932, and although it was dropped from production, Henry Ford got wind of it, and that helped to spur on the development of the 'flatty' v/8, for '32! It was engineered by the same guy who eventually developed the auto matic for GM, as well as the self starter (Kittering??) I built a '66 Nova 2 door wagon, with a tricarbed , cammed, headered, 327, with a T-10 4 speed, and a 4:35 posi. It was the lowest level of could buy option,and I used to love to take my wife out on the old highway where the 4 lanes ran past the Dairy farm on the way to Chemainus, and stop on highway, rev it to red line, 'pop' the clutch, and feel the steering get way light, while her eyes got big like saucers! Guess I will be able to do same with my '38 Chev Coupe.....when I get it finished =====8^)
Cheers
Scoggy
You got any pictures of your 38? That has got to be a lot of fun.
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:01 AM   #3853
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No, it's oil based Jim. The Varathane is water based, which is doubtless why it dries faster (4 hours).

I am finding that the Minwax effectively needs to be left for a day between coats. But with all I have to do elsewhere, that isn't really a concern.
Keith, have you tried the water based polyurethane? That stuff dries in just a few minutes and cleans up with water, I like it pretty good. I don't think I would use it outside though.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:59 AM   #3854
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Keith, have you tried the water based polyurethane? That stuff dries in just a few minutes and cleans up with water, I like it pretty good. I don't think I would use it outside though.
What brand would that be Jim?

Varathane is a urethane of some sort, and it's water based. But still it is supposed to be 4 hours between coats. It does feel as though it is drier well before 4 hours if the temperature is up, but it's far more than a few minutes.

I don't believe that any of the water based products contain any UV inhibitors, which is why they aren't very long lasting outside.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:02 PM   #3855
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Chevy produced their first OHV V-8 over a two year period in - are you ready for this...

Nineteen seventeen and nineteen eighteen. You can win bets with this one.

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