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Old 10-18-2010, 01:27 PM   #3211
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I agree that Keith has raised the bar for all of us. I'm looking forward to seeing what's next.

Many thanks jl...after the tile is stuck down and grouted and sealed, I will be making some sort of wood trim around it.

My choice is for a substantial trim - perhaps 1 1/2" thick and 2 1/2 - 3" deep. The long curves will laminate up OK, but the ends may have to be cut from solid wood due to the sharp curvature.

I did such an edge on a house I had out in Aldergrove many years ago in which I used a total of 13 different kinds of wood. I know it sounds as though it may have looked hokey, but all the woods were quite dark and blended well.

I still have time to work it out in my mind before I start the actual cutting.

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Old 10-18-2010, 01:34 PM   #3212
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I am considering whether to use softwood or hardwood for the edge. Softwood will be much easier to work with, but hardwood will take the inevitable dings much better. I have a large stock of arbutus, and I may try to rip several thin pieces to see how tight a radius I can successfully bend it into.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:53 PM   #3213
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Before you get to the edging...
Have you considered adding a raised 'back splash' to the counter so junk does get knocked off the front/back of it?




And to hid the mess...
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:13 PM   #3214
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Many thanks jl...after the tile is stuck down and grouted and sealed, I will be making some sort of wood trim around it.

My choice is for a substantial trim - perhaps 1 1/2" thick and 2 1/2 - 3" deep. The long curves will laminate up OK, but the ends may have to be cut from solid wood due to the sharp curvature.

I did such an edge on a house I had out in Aldergrove many years ago in which I used a total of 13 different kinds of wood. I know it sounds as though it may have looked hokey, but all the woods were quite dark and blended well.

I still have time to work it out in my mind before I start the actual cutting.
Keith, when you get to the tight bends maybe you could take a torch and heat the wood almost to scorching temperature, clamp and let cool then glue. I have had pretty good luck with hardwoods bending but have never tried soft wood. I never had much luck with bending wood over 3/16 inch thick though.
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:22 PM   #3215
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Originally Posted by jlhaslip View Post
Before you get to the edging...
Have you considered adding a raised 'back splash' to the counter so junk does get knocked off the front/back of it?




And to hid the mess...
Mess? MESS??? Heaven forbid that wife number 2 would even think of such a thing on this counter!

The edging will be about 1/2" - give or take - higher than the counter, which should prevent the "junk" ... very poor choice of words there jl ... from going over the side.
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:27 PM   #3216
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Keith, when you get to the tight bends maybe you could take a torch and heat the wood almost to scorching temperature, clamp and let cool then glue. I have had pretty good luck with hardwoods bending but have never tried soft wood. I never had much luck with bending wood over 3/16 inch thick though.
Jim: In the boatyard we were able to bend almost any wood using the steambox. Wood to 1 1/2" thick could be bent to a surprisingly tight radius. Either hard or soft woods will turn to spaghetti given enough time in the box. It shouldn't be necessary to use heat as long as I get the wood ripped thin enough. I will run a couple of experiments to see how it comes out.
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:31 PM   #3217
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I couldn't find my Thesaurus...







Will you be adding the edging before setting the tile in order to get some clamps on it. You may need to screw down some pieces to clamp to... just curious.
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Last edited by jlhaslip; 10-18-2010 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:04 PM   #3218
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I couldn't find my Thesaurus...







Will you be adding the edging before setting the tile in order to get some clamps on it. You may need to screw down some pieces to clamp to... just curious.
You do come up with the best replies!!! Your "Lawyers" is still far and away my favourite. I still chuckle about that one.

Anyway, I think the tile will all have to go down first. I have clamps which are long enough to span the width of the counter, which is presently 31". It likely won't get much over 33" with the extra edging in place.

Something else I need to consider will be the method of sealing the edge to the tiles. I think I will leave a 1/8" - 3/16" space between the tile and the lip which will cover the top of the tile, and use some sort of caulking for that. I think that Mapei has a pretty good range of colours for their caulk, so I will likely get a travertine coloured one for that.

As I think about it, the little details seem to sort themselves out.

But if you get any brainwaves...please pass them along. A little extra help never hurt!
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:16 PM   #3219
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I just had an email from my pal Randy, the one who took the picture of comet Hartley.

He is using an 80mm refractor, a Stellarvue Nighthawk which I have loaned him. He is working on the processing of a picture of the Pleiades, which is one of the signposts in the sky often used to find other objects. I will explain how all that works later.

Plus, I will show you the Pleiades pic when he sends it to me. You may know this object as the "Seven Sisters." If you have good eyesight, you can see all 7 of the main stars without optical aid.
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Old 10-18-2010, 04:48 PM   #3220
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Jim: In the boatyard we were able to bend almost any wood using the steambox. Wood to 1 1/2" thick could be bent to a surprisingly tight radius. Either hard or soft woods will turn to spaghetti given enough time in the box. It shouldn't be necessary to use heat as long as I get the wood ripped thin enough. I will run a couple of experiments to see how it comes out.
Keith, for years I have read about and heard about the steam boxes but just never got around to trying them. I even read about using anhydrous ammonia for bending wood but that is expensive as everything has to be made out of stainless steel then getting rid of the ammonia is tricky also. I know the edging will be sharp though, no doubt.
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Old 10-18-2010, 04:50 PM   #3221
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
I just had an email from my pal Randy, the one who took the picture of comet Hartley.

He is using an 80mm refractor, a Stellarvue Nighthawk which I have loaned him. He is working on the processing of a picture of the Pleiades, which is one of the signposts in the sky often used to find other objects. I will explain how all that works later.

Plus, I will show you the Pleiades pic when he sends it to me. You may know this object as the "Seven Sisters." If you have good eyesight, you can see all 7 of the main stars without optical aid.
I am really really looking forward to seeing these pictures buddy. Thanks a bunch.
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:40 PM   #3222
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I am really really looking forward to seeing these pictures buddy. Thanks a bunch.
Randy took that pic of the comet I posted earlier. I just got another email from him, and he is trying to tease more nebulosity from around the stars in the Pleiades. (Pronounced Plee-uh-deez.)

Hopefully we will be able to see his results later today. He won't be doing any imaging tonight, as we are completely clouded in.
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:59 PM   #3223
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Keith, for years I have read about and heard about the steam boxes but just never got around to trying them. I even read about using anhydrous ammonia for bending wood but that is expensive as everything has to be made out of stainless steel then getting rid of the ammonia is tricky also. I know the edging will be sharp though, no doubt.
Jim, I have no idea how long the steambox idea goes back. But I'm sure it must be a good long time.

We had a communal one in the yard which was 20 feet long. It is the thickness of the wood that determines how long you would leave something inside the box. If I recall rightly, about an hour was the usual time.

Then you had to move like greased lightning to get the wood on the boat and bent before it started to cool. Very heavy lined leather gloves were the order of the day, as the wood was hotter than boiling water. It always looked like a Chinese fire drill when a piece of wood came from the box.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:05 PM   #3224
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I know you have already seen a pic of all the tile cut on the counter, but this one - and the mate at the other end - are what should cure me of ever wanting to do something like this again.
Wow, I cannot believe how perfectly you cut all those tiles. I don't care how many bits of wood and straightedges you used, those end pieces are clearly impossible to cut.

I could not be more impressed if you built a telescope from scratch (actually, you probably have lol), but you do realize you're completely insane for putting yourself through that, right?
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:07 PM   #3225
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Wife number two deemed that she had enough varnish on her studio door to last the winter. So, following her instructions to the letter, the door was taken outside and hung.

The original hole for the door hardware was barely 3/4" - first time I have seen one like that. This made it necessary to do the usual when re-drilling the hole for the modern hardware.

Because there was no wood in the middle for the guide drill bit to enter - only air - it was a requirement that I use some sort of edge guide. Most of you have seen me use this before, and it's a system that works very well.

Pre drill a hole in your guide board, in this case a piece of 3/4" plywood.

Clamp said board to door. Because the varnish is quite fresh, I used a layer of fabric between the board and door in an attempt to avoid damaging the varnish. Fortunately, it worked.

For future reference, if any of you are going to try this, a piece of soft leather works best as it holds well against a smooth finish like varnish, and does not leave any marks. I do have such a piece, but naturally it won the hide-and-seek game yet again.
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