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Old 10-16-2010, 06:48 PM   #3151
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Gulf Island Building.


Test fit of the sink, which dropped nicely in place.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:50 PM   #3152
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The stove top hole is more guesswork than science. Since the stove is currently in use in the cabin, I took the outside measurements and subtracted a bit for this hole. The top itself prevents me from being able to get at the present hole from below to get a decent measurement.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:51 PM   #3153
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Gulf Island Building.


Here's a look at how the whole top is right now.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:57 PM   #3154
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I'm now starting on the tile layout.

I have decided to start in the middle and work both ways. No particular reason for this except that I can go from the edge of the stove hole to the sink fairly easily....I hope!

I'm going to taper the tiles all the way across so that I don't have any wild changes in direction at the outer edges of the two counter units.

Bud can let me know if this is a huge foul up or not. I just think it will look better. I have made up a jig to mark the tiles off with for cutting. The jig is centered on the radius point of the counter, and uses a long straightedge for marking right in place.

Probably easier if I took a pic instead of another of my ham fisted explanations.
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Old 10-16-2010, 07:00 PM   #3155
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Here's the door as it appeared this morning after the 2nd topcoat. It will need several more.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:06 PM   #3156
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Bud...if you're around, could you suggest a size for the space in the kitchen counter tiles. I'd like to keep it as small as possible.

I cut a few tiles with zero space to see what it looked like...and that was OK. But there's no way I would be able to keep that close a tolerance all the way round that counter top.

I just looked at 1/16" and that didn't look right, sorta small. 1/8" looks better and might allow for the odd slight angle miscalculation when cutting.

I'll put a pic up of how I'm going across the counter, and how the cut lines are being drawn.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:31 PM   #3157
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Here's a look at how the whole top is right now.
I really do like the shape of your island, that is going to be sharp. It is going to be a lot of cutting also. What kind of edging are you going to put on it?
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:35 PM   #3158
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Here's the door as it appeared this morning after the 2nd topcoat. It will need several more.
I didn't understand exactly how the panels were going in your door at first but now I see. That color is just beautiful, that is a wonderful door, you saved yourself a bunch of money on that one.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:19 PM   #3159
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I really do like the shape of your island, that is going to be sharp. It is going to be a lot of cutting also. What kind of edging are you going to put on it?
Thank you Jim...I'm going to make some sort of a wood edging for it.

Haven't quite worked out how I will do that yet, but I expect that it will need to be laminated with very thin strips due to the fairly radical curve on the inside edge. I hope to bring it up about 1/2" or so above the tile and then cover about 3/8" - give or take - over the top edge of the tile. That way I can hide any faux pas that I'm likely to make with the tile itself.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:26 PM   #3160
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I didn't understand exactly how the panels were going in your door at first but now I see. That color is just beautiful, that is a wonderful door, you saved yourself a bunch of money on that one.
Just for fun I tried to work out what that door really cost me in cash.

The arbutus wood was free. The cedar cost me about 44 cents in milling costs. The glue was probably darn nearly 20 cents. But the real killer is the finishing material. I bet that's going to run at least $10 by the time I have a few more coats on. So I'm looking at the better part of $11, not to mention the hardware which will be 4 times as much!

I checked with the House of Pot, and an unfinished douglas fir door with panels - not like these of course - would cost $600. I damn nearly fainted on the spot.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:37 PM   #3161
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OK, back at the counter for a minute...this is the setup to do the tile layout with.

The original radius mark for the counter is still clearly marked on the floor, so it was just a matter of elevating the mark to a point 3 feet in the air...simple.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:39 PM   #3162
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Then attach that long skinny board - which really should be very straight by the way - to the top of that tripod, and now you have something to lay out the radial cuts, all of which theoretically should be the same.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:42 PM   #3163
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What I actually did was to mark each end of the tile where the board passed over it and used a straightedge to mark the line proper. Just as a precaution you understand.

Not for one second am I suggesting that the wood is anything but dead straight.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:44 PM   #3164
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Every tile here will need to be cut - at least three cuts minimum. Some need all 4 sides cut - with curves yet.

Kick me if I even think about doing this again.

I tried the first 4 with no spaces in between.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:46 PM   #3165
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Then I tried with 1/16" spacers...didn't really care for that.
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