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Old 10-11-2010, 09:44 PM   #3031
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Gulf Island Building.


Here's the drawer in place...no binding! Thanks again Jim!
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:47 PM   #3032
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Now to go and remove the first drawer, countersink the slides and re-install.

Next up I will see what I can find to make in the way of some drawer faces. And once all the top drawers are in - should be done this evening - I can start on the permanent installation of the top.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:06 PM   #3033
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Coco's astronomy tip of the day (No. 7)

Viewing the moon...nothing to it really. Except when you look at it through a telescope, then WOW that guy is bright!

What you need to do is to tame it down so that the light isn't so bright that it can actually hurt your eyeball. Not to worry, it's all been figured out for you.

When viewing the moon through a scope, in order to see the entire moon, you would need to use a low powered eyepiece first of all. Too much magnification, and you will only be able to fit a piece of the moon into your field of view. (FOV).

We use a polarizing filter to cut the moons' very considerable glare down. Polarizing filters come in fixed and adjustable versions. Most fixed versions allow about 13% of the light to pass through, while variable filters may handle between 13 and 22%, give or take...they are not all the same.

There are other filters available for moon viewing as well, and these are designed to keep the colour of the moon as pure as possible. Frequently, you will see a purple looking ring around the edge of the moon, and this is caused by the optics. A minus violet filter is used to correct that.

The small filter on the left fits a standard 1 1/4" eyepiece, and is the adjustable polarizing filter.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:11 PM   #3034
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The filter on the right is fixed and fits a standard 2" eyepiece. It might be worth noting that the 2" filter, which of course requires the use of a 2" eyepiece, has over 2 1/2 times the area of the smaller filter.

It is almost a guarantee that any 2" eyepiece will give you better views than any 1 1/4" eyepiece. The possible exception might be some of the extremely costly 1 1/4" eyepieces - many of which can cost much more than your average telescope!
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:19 PM   #3035
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Now that I have had a chance to test out the taper cutting jig, Here's a couple of pics.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:23 PM   #3036
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It certainly makes it very simple to cut narrow tapers up to 44" long. Tapers can vary from zero to two inches in 44". There is an adjustable rod in the business end which permits easy and repeatable tapers.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:34 PM   #3037
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I heard from my pal Larry tonight and he kindly sent me a pic of the Calcium K scope. It has a 60mm objective lens and a special blocking filter suited for photographic use.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:48 PM   #3038
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
I thought about a bulge or warp either in the drawers or the dividers. But they all are flat when a straightedge is applied.

Anyway Jim...after using your idea of fixing the interfering screws, drawer number 2 is great.

Just screwed everything on, pushed the drawer in...nice click to close. Gave it a gentle push...and out it pops a couple of inches. No binding at all.

I countersunk the slides like so.
I have done the same thing before buddy, I am glad it worked out for you.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:51 PM   #3039
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It certainly makes it very simple to cut narrow tapers up to 44" long. Tapers can vary from zero to two inches in 44". There is an adjustable rod in the business end which permits easy and repeatable tapers.
I like the way you made your taper jig Keith, that is really a neat idea. I like the marked piece in the end, that way you can make a repeated cut later without any trouble.
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:02 AM   #3040
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Coco's astronomy tip of the day (No. 7)

Viewing the moon...nothing to it really. Except when you look at it through a telescope, then WOW that guy is bright!

What you need to do is to tame it down so that the light isn't so bright that it can actually hurt your eyeball. Not to worry, it's all been figured out for you.

When viewing the moon through a scope, in order to see the entire moon, you would need to use a low powered eyepiece first of all. Too much magnification, and you will only be able to fit a piece of the moon into your field of view. (FOV).

We use a polarizing filter to cut the moons' very considerable glare down. Polarizing filters come in fixed and adjustable versions. Most fixed versions allow about 13% of the light to pass through, while variable filters may handle between 13 and 22%, give or take...they are not all the same.

There are other filters available for moon viewing as well, and these are designed to keep the colour of the moon as pure as possible. Frequently, you will see a purple looking ring around the edge of the moon, and this is caused by the optics. A minus violet filter is used to correct that.

The small filter on the left fits a standard 1 1/4" eyepiece, and is the adjustable polarizing filter.
The moon was really too bright just looking through binoculars for me when I was looking a week or so ago. Tonight we have cloud cover so the put a halt for tonight.
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:10 AM   #3041
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I heard from my pal Larry tonight and he kindly sent me a pic of the Calcium K scope. It has a 60mm objective lens and a special blocking filter suited for photographic use.
That is one impressive telescope Keith but I don't have a clue what all of that means, hopefully I will in time. I have a bunch of websites on my home page that tells about what is going on soon and now out there. There is so much to read and see.
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:23 AM   #3042
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Coco,

Was busy getting all turkeyed up this weekend, so I'm getting to you late, but Lee Valley has a drawer slide screw that is 5/8" #6 with a shallow head specifically for drawer slides.
I can't find them on their site, but if you need the number, I'm pretty sure I can find it out in the shop tomorrow.
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:55 AM   #3043
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That is one impressive telescope Keith but I don't have a clue what all of that means, hopefully I will in time. I have a bunch of websites on my home page that tells about what is going on soon and now out there. There is so much to read and see.
Don't worry Jim, you'll start to catch on to the lingo soon enough.

For starters, the objective lens is the lens at the front of the scope - the one that collects the light - and the 60mm refers to the size of the lens. In this case, 60mm. That would be considered small for most scopes, but for a solar scope it's plenty big!
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:02 AM   #3044
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Coco,

Was busy getting all turkeyed up this weekend, so I'm getting to you late, but Lee Valley has a drawer slide screw that is 5/8" #6 with a shallow head specifically for drawer slides.
I can't find them on their site, but if you need the number, I'm pretty sure I can find it out in the shop tomorrow.
Thanks jl...my solution is to drill out the holes in the slides. And, as I think you can see from the pics the supplied screws (from Taiwan) actually will go flush.

I think L.V. has fallen down on this one. They should have seen to it that the proper screws and/or the proper holes were drilled.

It's not a big deal really, but having to countersink 120 holes in metal does take a little while. So, it's well over two hours wasted for something that should have been right in the first place.

I have all their catalogues here so I'm sure I can always get the number if necessary, but thanks for the offer.
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:45 AM   #3045
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Someone fell down on the job supplying the wrong screws with your slides, that is pretty sorry, I bet someone complains about it, two hours lost is just wrong of them. Most folks aren't as ingenuitive as you are at figuring how to make the screws work.

Keith, come to think of it screws don't come with the slides when I buy them at the cabinet supply place, screws don't come with the euro hinges either. I guess the suppliers figure there are just too many applications and thickness of materials to include the screws.

The last screws I bought from the cabinet supply are about gone, I may have a hand full left out of something like 10,000 screws, they sure lasted a loooong time though. These screws are the 5/8 inch #6 large thread narrow head countersunk type screw like jl is talking about.

I don't know what a Robbertson screw is, is it like a allen screw or a torx?

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