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Old 10-11-2010, 07:06 PM   #3016
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Gulf Island Building.


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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
Thanks jl...I kind of think that most of the better manufacturers might make their own jigs. After all, the easier they can make the installation process, the more product they are likely to sell.

This very simple guide seems to be working, but another little problem has reared its' ugly head.

Now, it seems, that when I did the dadoes for the back end of the drawers, that I might have made them about 1/16" or so too deep. This has had the effect of making the back end of the drawers about 1/8" narrower than the front. Not too clever of me.

So, now I am in the process of making an adjustable jig to make shims to fix that. Should be done very shortly.
Don't ya just hate it when that happens? I have done that also but usually I made the drawer too tight. I would just just cut the side with the table saw so the slide would fit correctly. I didn't have to cut all the way up the side, I would cut up just high enough for the slide to fit into.

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Old 10-11-2010, 07:09 PM   #3017
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
OK, jig is made, just waiting for some glue to set.

I did a test fit of one of the door panels, and it looks about like this. There is just one coat of varnish on the panel so far, just as a sealer more than anything.
I knew that door was going to be beautiful and buddy, beautiful it is!!!
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:36 PM   #3018
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Originally Posted by jiju1943 View Post
Buddy, that is as good a way as any to get the slide square. One of my nephews who worked for me for 22 years use to use a framing square and make a line where the slide went, he would drive a 4d nail on the line at the front and back so the slide could sit on the nails and be screwed in place. I am with jl, I have the Blum slide jig also but I am not aware of one for the full extension slides.

When I built a unit with full extension slides I would always installed my slides on the cabinet sides before I put the unit together, it was just easier that way for me.
Good idea to put the hardware on the cab sides first, for sure. I don't think that was an option in my case. However, I'll just have to work with what I have.

I seem to be having difficulty with some binding on the first drawer. It goes in about 90% of the way, then gets hard to push in. Usually, that is an indication of something being out of square. So I have just made up yet another very simple jig to mark off the lines where the cabinet slide goes. I'll try the next drawer with that and see if it helps.

I don't suppose that these curved cabinets are making it any easier - given that the total tolerance for any adjustment is 1/32" or less.

I checked the level front to back and side to side...I did find one error of 1/16" in elevation on one end, but I really can't see that being the cause of that much binding.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:42 PM   #3019
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Originally Posted by Shamus View Post
Typically I make something along the lines of your photo. There are several brands of slides and I have yet to find the one-fits-all version for height and level.

If your doing several drawers of the same height I'll do all the left sides then reverse the jig and do all the right ones. Then move it down and start the next sets. For some reason this makes the process go quicker for me. I guess it has something to do with performing repeated tasks

Just my 2
I bet you're right about there not being one that fits all. No manufacturer in their right mind would want that. Once you have their jig - every time you need new slides you would be inclined to use theirs again - even if it was only to avoid buying another jig.

I've just done about what you suggested on the marking out.

I was able to remove the counter top, which was only sitting there loose for test purposes, so I can actually use the top of the side panels to lay out my top marks for the first sets of slides. All the top drawers are the same depth, which makes that part easy enough.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:50 PM   #3020
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
Good idea to put the hardware on the cab sides first, for sure. I don't think that was an option in my case. However, I'll just have to work with what I have.

I seem to be having difficulty with some binding on the first drawer. It goes in about 90% of the way, then gets hard to push in. Usually, that is an indication of something being out of square. So I have just made up yet another very simple jig to mark off the lines where the cabinet slide goes. I'll try the next drawer with that and see if it helps.

I don't suppose that these curved cabinets are making it any easier - given that the total tolerance for any adjustment is 1/32" or less.

I checked the level front to back and side to side...I did find one error of 1/16" in elevation on one end, but I really can't see that being the cause of that much binding.
Keith, check to see if you have a screw that is not screwed in all the way or is screwed crooked, that slide will drag on just about anything. it is made very close, with little clearance.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:58 PM   #3021
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Originally Posted by jiju1943 View Post
Keith, check to see if you have a screw that is not screwed in all the way or is screwed crooked, that slide will drag on just about anything. it is made very close, with little clearance.
Good idea Jim, I'll do that.

That is a distinct possibility, although it does feel more like a bind than anything else. The screws appear to be straight, mainly because I pre-drilled holes for all of them. They are Phillips screws, which I must admit I thoroughly detest. Hmmmmm...I wonder if I have a box of short Robertson screws...

One thing I do not like, is the fact that the screws they provide do not sit down flush with the mounting holes at all. Perhaps I will need to countersink the slides where the screws fit.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:59 PM   #3022
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Here's the layout jig I just made up...took me about three minutes. Most of that putting the glue on the joint!
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:01 PM   #3023
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To use it, all I need to do is to sit it on top of the divider and draw a line underneath. Done.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:04 PM   #3024
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Once the line is drawn, I clamp the other jig which holds the slide in place on to the divider. Then sit the slide in place, pre-drill the holes and screw it on.

I thought perhaps that the holding jig was not square...but the line and jig are both in the same plane. So, that's not the problem.

I'm going to look at those screws again, that just may have something to do with it.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:24 PM   #3025
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BINGO!!!

Jim...here's what I just tried.

I put a slide on the divider without any drawer attached. Pushed the slide back and forth, and low and behold...the screws interfere.

Jim, you're a GENIUS!!!

So, now what I'm going to try is countersinking the holes just a trace. Let's see if that makes any difference. Either that, or I need to find some screws with really thin heads!
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:59 PM   #3026
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
Good idea Jim, I'll do that.

That is a distinct possibility, although it does feel more like a bind than anything else. The screws appear to be straight, mainly because I pre-drilled holes for all of them. They are Phillips screws, which I must admit I thoroughly detest. Hmmmmm...I wonder if I have a box of short Robertson screws...

One thing I do not like, is the fact that the screws they provide do not sit down flush with the mounting holes at all. Perhaps I will need to countersink the slides where the screws fit.
Just one more thought, check the drawer side to see if it has a slight bulge in it, that could cause it to bind also.

Well I should have read the rest of your posts before posting.

The screws I have are made for slides and hinges and the screws when screwed in are flush with the slides. That is a shame that they gave you the wrong screws.
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Last edited by BigJim; 10-11-2010 at 09:16 PM. Reason: Just being old again
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:08 PM   #3027
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Hi Marc:

Yes, you can use a #14 welders lens, which does in fact make it safe to view the sun. But it won't show you any details at all, except for an eclipse - which is what those lenses are usually used for.

I have never tried the #16 for carbon arc...is that darker?
Yeah it is darker but pretty hard to find that lens due I don't think they make that anymore If I recall it correct.

Merci.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:38 PM   #3028
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Yeah it is darker but pretty hard to find that lens due I don't think they make that anymore If I recall it correct.

Merci.
Marc
That's a shame...I will check with our local welding outfit next trip to town to see if they carry one. Might be interesting to see what the sun looks like through it.

Thanks Marc.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:41 PM   #3029
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Originally Posted by jiju1943 View Post
Just one more thought, check the drawer side to see if it has a slight bulge in it, that could cause it to bind also.

Well I should have read the rest of your posts before posting.

The screws I have are made for slides and hinges and the screws when screwed in are flush with the slides. That is a shame that they gave you the wrong screws.
I thought about a bulge or warp either in the drawers or the dividers. But they all are flat when a straightedge is applied.

Anyway Jim...after using your idea of fixing the interfering screws, drawer number 2 is great.

Just screwed everything on, pushed the drawer in...nice click to close. Gave it a gentle push...and out it pops a couple of inches. No binding at all.

I countersunk the slides like so.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:43 PM   #3030
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And when the slide is fixed in place, the screws no longer protrude.
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