Gulf Island Building.

**BigJim** · 10-10-2010, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shumakerscott

I think you need a rock clamp there

. dd...

Yep, yep, I agree.

**BigJim** · 10-10-2010, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cocobolo

Following the install of the 4 x 4, I added shingle shims in pairs underneath to provide clamping pressure. In one hour I'll move that setup to the middle rail and do it all over again.

A dead blow hammer sets the shims perfectly.

That is good thinking on extending your clamps, I like that.

I love the saw also, does it cut on the pull or push?

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shumakerscott

I think you need a rock clamp there

. dd...

Now why didn't I think of that?

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlhaslip

If you need a rock, I'll shake one out of my skull...

That's OK, but this whole island is nothing but rocks! Besides, with Canada Posts' rates you couldn't afford to send the rock out this way!

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiju1943

That is good thinking on extending your clamps, I like that.

I love the saw also, does it cut on the pull or push?

Japanese saws traditionally cut on the pull stroke Jim.

They can be made very thin just for that reason. If they were made to cut on the push stroke, they would buckle.

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 07:00 PM

Just one section of the door remaining to fit...and in the interim I have started to add the slides to the drawers.

You would think that for the not inconsiderable price these things cost, that there might be some basic instructions or hints on the best way to install them.

What we get is the English translation of the Taiwanese version. Similar to instructions on assembling their tools. At least it makes for an interesting few minutes of trying to deduce how these things come apart to be installed.

And NO, they will not fit until they are disassembled. There is no way to get the screws on to the cabinet pieces, the slide itself must go.

First attempt resulted in me removing a small plastic clip. The slide came apart all right...but it left ball bearings all over the floor! OK, I guess that wasn't it!

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 07:01 PM

However, if you just pull this guy here to one side, the drawer section just slides right out, and the ball bearings stay in place...no problemo.

**BigJim** · 10-10-2010, 08:39 PM

Keith, the way I put that type of slide on is to mount it flush with the bottom of the drawer box while it sits on the table. I will figure out how much clearance I need from the drawer side to the bottom of the cabinet and cut a scrap board that width and use it for a gauge and put the scrap wood inside the cabinet and set the other part of the slide on the scrap and mount it to the cabinet side. I always start with the top drawer so the slides below won't get in the way of my scrap gauge block.

When you take the slide apart the narrow part goes on the drawer side, if you are putting the drawer dead on the bottom of the cabinet, the other half of the slide being wider and mounted dead on the floor of the cabinet, there will be enough clearance for the drawer to slide in and out without dragging.

You will need 1 inch clearance, for the rough opening, to allow for the slides on the side of the drawer boxes.

You probably already knew that but since I do everything backwards I figured you may not know that way.

Oh, be sure to set the front of the slide (one in cabinet box) in maybe a heavy 1/16th inside the cabinet so the slide will allow the drawer front to close all the way against the cabinet box.

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiju1943

Keith, the way I put that type of slide on is to mount it flush with the bottom of the drawer box while it sits on the table. I will figure out how much clearance I need from the drawer side to the bottom of the cabinet and cut a scrap board that width and use it for a gauge and put the scrap wood inside the cabinet and set the other part of the slide on the scrap and mount it to the cabinet side. I always start with the top drawer so the slides below won't get in the way of my scrap gauge block.

When you take the slide apart the narrow part goes on the drawer side, if you are putting the drawer dead on the bottom of the cabinet, the other half of the slide being wider and mounted dead on the floor of the cabinet, there will be enough clearance for the drawer to slide in and out without dragging.

You will need 1 inch clearance, for the rough opening, to allow for the slides on the side of the drawer boxes.

You probably already knew that but since I do everything backwards I figured you may not know that way.

Oh, be sure to set the front of the slide (one in cabinet box) in maybe a heavy 1/16th inside the cabinet so the slide will allow the drawer front to close all the way against the cabinet box.

Wow! I can't believe it ...you must have been reading my mail!!!

I had to do a little looking - and it sure wasn't on the Taiwanese instructions. The side clearance needs to be 1/2" +1/32 -0 on each side, so that's 1", just like you say.

I have already put the narrow part on the drawer sides, just like you say.

But I didn't mount it right at the bottom of the drawer. I used a spacer - as you will see in a minute.

All the top row drawers are 5" deep, and the larger bottom ones are just under 12". The missus wanted room for her bigger pots in there.

Something else I checked was that 1/16" setback. That's what I discovered also, but when I tested the actual mechanism, it moved 1/4" back before it unlocked. It's the touch-to-open type. So I left 1/4" space.

If it's too much, well then I'll just have to move it ahead.

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 10:10 PM

I decided that I would mount all the slides the same distance above the drawer bottoms, and the measurement of choice was this piece of a broken level which seemed just about perfect. It was a four footer at one time.

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 10:39 PM

Coco's astronomy tip of the day (No. 6)

In order to look at the sun safely, you either need a dedicated solar telescope, or a specialized filter.

The least expensive of these options is the filter which can be used with almost any telescope. You would either buy or make a filter for your particular scope.

These special filters permit the passage of only 1/1000 of 1% of the light to pass through them. Perhaps you might be inclined to think that this wouldn't be enough...not so.

You should get a clear image of the sun with any activity showing up very distinctly.

Dedicated solar scopes are quite uncommon birds, and are on the expensive side. These telescopes view the sun directly in Ha, or Hydrogen alpha light. The Ha line shows all the smallest details of any activity, be it a sunspot or any form of prominence around the perimeter of the sun.

There is a considerably newer scope which views the CaK line. This shows a completely different level of the suns' surface, and is actually more suited to photographic use. It gives you a preview of what is coming up on the surface before it actually gets there. The CaK line being just below the surface of the sun that we see every day.

Here is one of the less expensive black and white type filters. Sometimes referred to as a Baader filter, as they sell the film from which these are made. This fits on my 10" scope.

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 10:45 PM

This solar filter fits on my long tube 6" reflector telescope. It is made from plywood rings and the Baader solar film.

cocobolo · 10-10-2010, 10:49 PM

This telescope is a dedicated solar scope made by Coronado before the days they were bought out by Meade.

The original Coronado folks have re-emerged as Lunt Solar, and now make some of the finest solar scopes out there.

I have their 60mm CaK unit which is on loan to a good friend of mine right now. I will see if I can con him into taking a pic of it for me.

**BigJim** · 10-10-2010, 11:48 PM

Wow buddy, you have some serious equipment. I wouldn't know which one to use when. I bet you have seen some really beautiful things out there. I don't see how any light could get through that one filter.

We appreciate the great tips.

gma2rjc · 10-10-2010, 11:51 PM

3,000 posts!

10-10-2010, 07:00 PM	#2991
cocobolo Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gulf Islands, B.C., Canada Posts: 6,264	Gulf Island Building. Just one section of the door remaining to fit...and in the interim I have started to add the slides to the drawers. You would think that for the not inconsiderable price these things cost, that there might be some basic instructions or hints on the best way to install them. What we get is the English translation of the Taiwanese version. Similar to instructions on assembling their tools. At least it makes for an interesting few minutes of trying to deduce how these things come apart to be installed. And NO, they will not fit until they are disassembled. There is no way to get the screws on to the cabinet pieces, the slide itself must go. First attempt resulted in me removing a small plastic clip. The slide came apart all right...but it left ball bearings all over the floor! OK, I guess that wasn't it! Attached Images

10-10-2010, 07:01 PM	#2992
cocobolo Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gulf Islands, B.C., Canada Posts: 6,264	Gulf Island Building. However, if you just pull this guy here to one side, the drawer section just slides right out, and the ball bearings stay in place...no problemo. Attached Images

10-10-2010, 08:39 PM	#2993
BigJim STAFF Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: East Tennessee Posts: 4,821	Gulf Island Building. Keith, the way I put that type of slide on is to mount it flush with the bottom of the drawer box while it sits on the table. I will figure out how much clearance I need from the drawer side to the bottom of the cabinet and cut a scrap board that width and use it for a gauge and put the scrap wood inside the cabinet and set the other part of the slide on the scrap and mount it to the cabinet side. I always start with the top drawer so the slides below won't get in the way of my scrap gauge block. When you take the slide apart the narrow part goes on the drawer side, if you are putting the drawer dead on the bottom of the cabinet, the other half of the slide being wider and mounted dead on the floor of the cabinet, there will be enough clearance for the drawer to slide in and out without dragging. You will need 1 inch clearance, for the rough opening, to allow for the slides on the side of the drawer boxes. You probably already knew that but since I do everything backwards I figured you may not know that way. Oh, be sure to set the front of the slide (one in cabinet box) in maybe a heavy 1/16th inside the cabinet so the slide will allow the drawer front to close all the way against the cabinet box. __________________ New members: Please consider adding your location to your profile, it helps other members to give more accurate answers to your questions. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Jim Last edited by BigJim; 10-10-2010 at 08:48 PM.

10-10-2010, 10:10 PM	#2995
cocobolo Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gulf Islands, B.C., Canada Posts: 6,264	Gulf Island Building. I decided that I would mount all the slides the same distance above the drawer bottoms, and the measurement of choice was this piece of a broken level which seemed just about perfect. It was a four footer at one time. Attached Images

10-10-2010, 10:39 PM	#2996
cocobolo Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gulf Islands, B.C., Canada Posts: 6,264	Gulf Island Building. Coco's astronomy tip of the day (No. 6) In order to look at the sun safely, you either need a dedicated solar telescope, or a specialized filter. The least expensive of these options is the filter which can be used with almost any telescope. You would either buy or make a filter for your particular scope. These special filters permit the passage of only 1/1000 of 1% of the light to pass through them. Perhaps you might be inclined to think that this wouldn't be enough...not so. You should get a clear image of the sun with any activity showing up very distinctly. Dedicated solar scopes are quite uncommon birds, and are on the expensive side. These telescopes view the sun directly in Ha, or Hydrogen alpha light. The Ha line shows all the smallest details of any activity, be it a sunspot or any form of prominence around the perimeter of the sun. There is a considerably newer scope which views the CaK line. This shows a completely different level of the suns' surface, and is actually more suited to photographic use. It gives you a preview of what is coming up on the surface before it actually gets there. The CaK line being just below the surface of the sun that we see every day. Here is one of the less expensive black and white type filters. Sometimes referred to as a Baader filter, as they sell the film from which these are made. This fits on my 10" scope. Attached Images

Gulf Island Building.