Gulf Island Building.

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiju1943

Hey Tracy, it is good to meet you. I am glad to see someone posting, I thought I might have ran everyone off of Keith's thread.

Hey Jim...this is a friendly thread...the more the merrier!

**BigJim** · 07-21-2010, 02:31 AM

Keith, that is sure beautiful scenery, you are truly blessed.

On your large hand rail, is it a radius or a spiral? Can you glue it up like a radius or curved hand rail on a stairs? I don't know how other fellows glue up a rail for a curved stairs but I made several L shaped out of 2X4s, clamped or screwed the Ls to the radius or curve I wanted the rail to be and clamp the rail strips to the L shaped 2X4s.

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiju1943

Keith, that is sure beautiful scenery, you are truly blessed.

On your large hand rail, is it a radius or a spiral? Can you glue it up like a radius or curved hand rail on a stairs? I don't know how other fellows glue up a rail for a curved stairs but I made several L shaped out of 2X4s, clamped or screwed the Ls to the radius or curve I wanted the rail to be and clamp the rail strips to the L shaped 2X4s.

Fortunately, this is just a simple radius. The only place anywhere near big enough to glue up this much wood - something over 600 lineal feet - is going to be right in place.

It may not be as intimidating as first thought.

One of the yellow strips will be right in the middle of the railing, and this will be screwed into place into the top of the posts. I expect next on each side of that will be either one or two thin red strips, followed again by another yellow on either side of those. Followed again by as many red as it takes to do the job... ad infinitum...

The yellow is nearly twice as dense as the red, so I only want to use screws in that and not in the red.

Once it is all fastened, I will cut plugs for the countersunk screw holes.

The width of the post tops limits how far apart the two outside screws will go in any given post. I am hoping that I can get three screws in every post.

Mustn't forget the camera for every stage here...this is going to take awhile.

I will be using the two part mixed white glue for this, as it is very water resistant as long as it is not immersed in water and left there. Rain doesn't bother it. Plus, of course, there will be the usual number of varnish coats on once it is all brought up to snuff.

**BigJim** · 07-21-2010, 10:10 AM

Oooooh I know where your rail is going now, you can handle that for sure but it isn't going to be a piece of cake. We want pictures

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 02:27 PM

Will this do in the mean time...

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 02:28 PM

...it still needs 7 more coats of varnish, but the weather department says no rain for at least 7 days, sooooo....

KoryLGriffin · 07-21-2010, 02:51 PM

What an awesome location. I really like the model house you are making. Good luck I and look forward to your posts.

Bud Cline · 07-21-2010, 03:23 PM

OK, now I would like to see the underside of the table. How did you fashion the mounts?

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 03:48 PM

OK, I think I can do that...

The two halves of the top were biscuit joined together, and to keep the two halves flat, I screwed 10 boards across the width of the table in pairs.

Like so...

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 03:50 PM

...then the legs had a tenon put on the top end which fitted between the pairs of boards above, and were screwed on using two screws on each side, or a total of 20 screws all told. It seems to be pretty solid.

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KoryLGriffin

What an awesome location. I really like the model house you are making. Good luck I and look forward to your posts.

Thanks Kory. Model house...?

gma2rjc · 07-21-2010, 04:17 PM

Perhaps Kory is referring to posts #13, #14 and #15 on page 1?

The table is amazing Keith. Thanks for posting all the pictures and for explaining the process. It's very interesting.

tpolk · 07-21-2010, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cocobolo

Now I have a question for you glass cutting experts please.

I have several pieces of this glass which we found a few days ago in a big salvage yard over at Coombs.

The glass is 1/4" thick, and the design on it appears to have been sandblasted into the glass. Which means that one side of the glass is rough.

I need to cut it down so that it will fit into the small window frames in the living room.

What clever tricks can you tell me about to cut this glass cleanly? Thanks.

me thinks 4" angle grinder with lottsa water. I have some 4"x 8" stained glass blocks 1" thick that I used as a clere storie at the top of a screened porch. used a wetsaw on those with diamond blade and cut really slow

tpolk · 07-21-2010, 06:21 PM

was the taper on the soffit you fixed due to a different radius than the one above? just wunderin thanks timothy

cocobolo · 07-21-2010, 07:32 PM

tp...I was going to use the wetsaw, but I need to cut the pieces wider than the capacity of the saw.

I understand that cutting 1/4" thick glass is no big deal, BUT I don't know what it's like with that sandblasting on it.

I have looked at some videos, and the corning website shows a full size glass block being cut on the wetsaw. If the saw was big enough, I would surely do it that way. It's the irregular shape of the sandblasted side of the glass which has me concerned.