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Old 09-11-2008, 03:34 PM   #46
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German House Rebuild


Sorry Shu looks like I can't send a message till i get 20 posts in.

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Old 09-17-2008, 04:46 PM   #47
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We have made progress on the 2nd floor beams. Summer weather has left us and a very cold fall has set in very quickly. My daylight is gone much sooner also. 10 pallets of wall bricks are ordered for Monday, this is just for the back half of the wall. I must have the 2nd floor ready to handle the weight of 5600 kilo's by then. I do not want to lug the bricks up a ladder. I must thank my friends for their help over the last few days, Rudi, Steve and Mick. Now they have their spotlight! Here are a couple of pic's of the beams pretty much in place. The full length ones weigh a ton, very difficult to shift around. I plan on making a sort of crane for getting the mortor up to set the walls. Very busy times ahead. I have a friend flying over to help the entire month of Oct. so I hope to post great progress pics if the weather cooperates.
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Old 09-17-2008, 05:20 PM   #48
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Scott -

It looks good!! Your last photos came across the pond a little dark, but I enhanced them. - I understand what you mean about the loss of light. I am south of you (Minnesota) and can see the winter darkness coming here. - About 77 F (25 C) here today but below 0 C at night in a few weeks.

What will you be putting down over the the beams? You will certainly have a stout construction when you are done. I lived in that kind of construction and it has a very unusual feeling - you never hear the storm coming, do not know about it while it is there until you wake up later and look outside.

It would be interesting see some shots of them laying the clay block. Do they use the traditional eastern European trowel (short and wide) or do they use the type (longer and narrow) that Americans use for hollow block and brick veneer. Will the mortar be blended and in bags, masonry cement or will you proportion cement and lime on site?

Looks like your are well on your way to another 200 years (or is it 300 on the foundation?).

Keep the photos coming.

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Old 09-18-2008, 12:13 AM   #49
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The trowel is a short wide one. When you refer to "they" on laying the bricks I'm guessing that you mean a firm. I'm not getting one, just me and whoever will help me. The mix of mortar is on site with shovel and trailer hauled sand in a cement mixer. There is a sand pit about 7 miles away, 5 Euros a ton. Correction, 10 Euros a ton. It is bagged mortar cement "Binder". I've been told a mix of 4-6 shovels sand to 1 of Binder with a touch of Portland cement thrown in for good measure. I will post more pic's with better light. Dorf Dude
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Old 09-18-2008, 03:39 PM   #50
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I got on top of my garage and took a couple of pics. This gives a better layout of things. My camera has no wide angle at all, one heck of a zoom though. Not much use in the real world. I will pick up some cross beams tomorrow to lay on top of the floor beams for when the 10 pallets of bricks show up on Monday. They will be used in the future for an awning off the garage. The neighbor came by for an inspection and wanted to know if the header beams on the long walls were level, the ones that the floor beams rest on. I said heck no! They don't have to be. He gave me a very funny look. Then I explained that the top of the floor beams only need to be level with the 2 big beams at each end. It doesn't matter how level the wall beams are. I only must shim or trim to get them even. Tonight I did the trim, so only shim is left. Alot of it too. I will have an easy weekend. Got to take a break sometimes. From the Dorf of Seugast....
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German House Rebuild-pict0328.jpg   German House Rebuild-pict0329.jpg   German House Rebuild-pict0330.jpg  
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:15 PM   #51
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The 10 pallets of bricks are here and up on the 2nd floor. This is only half of what I will need. I have been building a small crane to lift the mortar up with. Should be done in the next couple of days. The bricks are 30cm, 12inch wide. No mortar goes in between, only on the top of each row. Just about ready to start!
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:34 PM   #52
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I have finished the crane and with help we got it erected. I made one design error but it is holding up. We have started the first row of the wall. There is a steep learning curve laying these bricks. In the beginning I had 2 of my neighbors giving me tips, they are masons. Then they left me and my friend on our own. It's not perfect and it took some time but it is a big step forward. I'm exhausted! From the Dorf........
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Old 09-27-2008, 05:35 PM   #53
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Scott, momb here. The pics came across great. Wow are you ever making fantastic progress!! How is your daylight holding out? We have some halogen construction night lights. Could you use them? Have you considered the spiral staircase I gave you the link for? Keep up the great work. F.R.O.G.
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Old 09-28-2008, 11:38 PM   #54
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Scott, been following yhour progress...keep it coming. Doing a total rebuild of my place too, but nothing compared to what you are going for...besides me, I'm sure you are motivating many others!

Just met my daughters' boyfriend's father, who grew up in Germany. He sez if you get ANYBODY (other than relatives) to assist in the project, you get slapped with a fine because you are utilizing unlicensed help...basically a racket to keep the trades people employed...is that true? Sounds like the career beuracracy there is way over the top.

Rock on, dude. Show 'em what independence, hard work and determination can do. Following your progress makes me proud to be an American.
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Old 09-30-2008, 01:32 PM   #55
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I have been working alone the last 3 days. Progress slow but sure. Thanks for the feedback! I had to cast concrete on the corner. This gave me a solid base to set bricks on. I've used 4 pallets of bricks so far. Building up and filling in the peaked wall will be a bit of a challenge. I'll figure it out one way or another. In the first pics you can see the string wrapped around a brick. This is pulled tight and then all the bricks are set to this level. Just got to make sure it is always tight! Lesson learned there. Tends to cause your wall to droop. Rain has set in, looks like for the next few days. The moisture might actually help the motar set up better. It is time to decide where I want windows. I'm leaning towards only one on the backside. I can put roof windows in any time in the future. My neighbor expressed concern that I don't put one overlooking his yard. They are funny about that here. I must get permission to put an overviewing window in. Here are a few pic's to keep you up to date. Greetings from the Dorf Dude
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German House Rebuild-pict0337.jpg   German House Rebuild-pict0339.jpg   German House Rebuild-pict0341.jpg  
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Old 09-30-2008, 05:42 PM   #56
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Scott:

Wow, that sure looks like a lot of brick. As a woman, you might need more windows than what a man might think. Are you going to be covering your neighbors windows up near the peak? Sure wish I could send you some of our sunshine. We've got lots and you are doing such a great job.

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Old 09-30-2008, 05:52 PM   #57
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momb -

They just use as many brick as necessaryy. Wood is really not a preferred building material everywhere, especially since he wants to get a few hundred years out of it like the original home.

Dorf Dude -

In the last photo posted, is that an illusion or does the left end of you wall abut the neighboring house at the front corner of the neighboring house? - Your lower front wall seems to be set back from the neighboring house. Maybe I just can't see visualize that end.

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Old 09-30-2008, 07:25 PM   #58
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I am a little set back from the neighbors wall. My wall and his do not line up. I have used a foam sleeping pad as a buffer on the neighbors wall. My actual peak height will not change, just the angle of the roof will be much less. The neighbors window will not get covered, forbiden. My work is not perfect but it will stand the test of time. At least my time. Thanks for the feedback. SHU
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:53 AM   #59
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So interesting.

I'd be interested to know the insulation value of a wall like that. Also, how is the electrical done?
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:19 PM   #60
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funku -

The insulation cannot be compared to the simplistic numbers provided by the pink panther which come from ideal lab condtions on a small insulation sample using steady state criteria over a short period of time. These also only apply to lightweight walls. - As an example, R-19 in a stud wall can actually be as low as R11 on paper if the studs are counted. This is the ideal, and the real life values are worse because of the lack of mass and heat storage. - The pink numbers are good for advertising in the U.S. but is not really applicable to the much of the developed world that does not build our way for many reasons.

It is possible to test the insulation of wall assemblies in a more reaslistic way (dynamic hot box subjected designed to simulate real conditions), but even that gives lower effective R-values (if that is how you measure) than the real performance for heavy walls.

There is also a way to get partial credit/effect on the insulating value of heavy walls in the standards, but that is limited and depends on the climate.

Reagarding the electrical insulation, there are many ways electrical is installed in ceramic block walls, depending on the interior composition and finish. In some countries, a "channel" is routed you with a masons hamer after the wall is built to set the wires in the walls. This is done with 3" (by a good mason) or by anyone in 4",6", 8", 10" and 12" walls. In many cases, the walls are plastered with conventional plaster or with insulating plaster in some areas. A soft wall, like drywall, is always an option.

I am sure the Dorf Dude will fill you in on his plans for electrical and wall finishes. He will also fill you in on his reasons for the wall materials and possibly why wood frame was not used and if it was allowed.

Dick Schu

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