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Old 07-27-2011, 02:55 PM   #1741
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After work today I got the stairway landing beams in and leveled. More work than it looks., very uneven underneath. I have to plan ahead for after the stairs are in and how I will finish the exposed areas. I also must leave room for the main roof support beam that will be next to the chimney. Lots of things to pay attention to. That laser level is sure working great, today's magic number was 80 cm. Shim it up until the laser hit that mark. Here's a couple pic's, dorf dude...
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:32 PM   #1742
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do you use one spot as zero for each laser set up?
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:46 PM   #1743
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Quote:
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do you use one spot as zero for each laser set up?
I think the answer to your question is yes. I moved the laser to a good broadcast spot tor the area I would be working on. Turn it on and let it self level. I checked the reading from the top of the previous beams and raised the laser until it was hitting 80cm on my meter stick. I was hitting 78.6 to start with. 80 just happens to be very easy to see. There really is no exact number. I could have made it anything I wanted. I could have used a plain old stick and marked where the laser hit it and used that. The actual number is not important, just where the laser hits in reference to that number. Anything in the 70's and I know the floor is to high, above 80 and it's to low. When I get with in about 2mm I stop and set it. Does this help? dorf dude...
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:38 PM   #1744
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usually when i have used a transit or level i have a benchmark which is always my starting point when resetting the laser. with a floor like yours i would pick one spot and call that zero and at each new set up would use that point to make the floor the same elevation regardless of how it reads on the tape. In fact you could mark a stick each time with a crows foot and raise or lower the floor until the laser hit that mark, no need for a ruler altho the stick rule gives you your difference immediatley. hope this doesnt sound confusing sometimes clarity in my head doesnt type well
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:34 PM   #1745
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usually when i have used a transit or level i have a benchmark which is always my starting point when resetting the laser. with a floor like yours i would pick one spot and call that zero and at each new set up would use that point to make the floor the same elevation regardless of how it reads on the tape. In fact you could mark a stick each time with a crows foot and raise or lower the floor until the laser hit that mark, no need for a ruler altho the stick rule gives you your difference immediatley. hope this doesnt sound confusing sometimes clarity in my head doesnt type well
We are doing the same thing just saying it differently. I'm using the beams I already set as my Zero. They must be at the right elevation, unless I set them wrong in the first place. I check it from many points just to make sure. I set the next ones at the same height. I can raise and lower the laser and I find a point on my meter stick that is easy to read and go from there. The plastic cards I'm using for shims are 1mm. I use the reading I get and grab that many + 2. Compression factor. Thanks, dorf dude...
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:49 AM   #1746
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I put my little car to work again. I picked up more floor beams and some latten to start framing in my wall. More pic's as things get further. dorf dude...
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Old 07-30-2011, 09:52 AM   #1747
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I guess that's one way to lower your car!
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Old 07-30-2011, 10:28 AM   #1748
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I guess that's one way to lower your car!
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:37 PM   #1749
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I've gotten a little further with the floor. The new beams are still green so they need to get set soon to prevent warping/twisting. Here are a couple pic's. I've got some cleaning up to do. dorf dude...
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Old 07-30-2011, 04:38 PM   #1750
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If you're at all concerned about any warping Shu, you can always clamp several together tightly.

Just look down the boards, and put them together in opposing directions to any twist that might be developing, usually in pairs. That way, any warping that might develop as a result of the wood being inside will be minimized.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:27 AM   #1751
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Busy day today. I got the messed up wall all framed in. I've been looking at it for the last couple years wondering how I would do it with the least amount of work. It turned out really easy. I attached a strip to the bottom of the roof beam and attached the vertical latten. Then I stared with the horizontals. The more I got on, it straightened it self out. I attached the far ends to the adjacent walls and set them with a level. I did not level or square any thing else. It all just lined up really close. I call that good enough for this wall. I set it solid with some nail in wall anchors. In some places I Gorilla glued wedges to the back of the latten. That firmed it right up. 8 hours of leisure work and it's finished. dorf dude...
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:15 PM   #1752
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The further you go, the larger the space seems.

What are plans for the shorter clay tile walls? Plaster or framing and gypsum board?

At least you have been able to maintain the classic deep set windows with wide sills.

The other Schu - Dick

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Old 07-31-2011, 03:26 PM   #1753
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The further you go, the larger the space seems.

What are plans for the shorter clat tile walls? Plaster or framing and gypsum board?

At least you have been able to maintain the classic deep set windows with wide sills.

The other Schu - Dick
Not sure yet what I will do with the other walls. I'm still kicking some ideas around. Price will have a big impact. I'm going to pull out the stops for the floor and probably cut back on the walls Thanks for following, dorf dude....
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:57 PM   #1754
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I picked up the materials for the wall today. I have a heavy gauge dedicated power line for the stereo. I put in 3 outlet cups. I will have a slow trip circuit breaker on it for when the power amps fire up. I trip normal house breakers about 50% of the time turning them on. I wanted to get further but I forgot to buy spray foam. I want to foam between the wall and the new framing. That will firm it up and stop any rattles and buzzing when the music is loud.. I've been a hobby audiophile all my life. I like loud music at times. Here is the first pic of the new wall.
This is where the bottle caps will come in to effect. I've left a gap between the floor and wall on purpose. I can slip cables in, in the future.
dorf dude...
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:31 PM   #1755
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I lost the use of my left hand today. It just swelled up. The doctor thinks it might be Gout. I told him to fix it, I have work to do. I got some meds and he wrote me off sick for the week. I still have work to do but can't. No pic's for a few days. This really sucks. Getting old I guess. Of course I will try and do something if I can but don't want to get caught. Right now nothing can be done. I can't even climb the ladder. dorf dude...

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