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Old 10-15-2010, 11:35 PM   #16
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First house remodel


did some work on the room separation/columns.. I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out!
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:20 AM   #17
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if you're running all your moldings on site, most excellent work
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:48 AM   #18
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Thank you! I'm running it all in my garage, and I'm saving a boat load of money doing it myself. I'm using swedish pine, it's cheap, and it's easy to feed through the router. Believe it or not, I'm using a modified $100 router table from Harbor Freight, 1 3/4 HP.. I can't go fast, but it gets the job done with very little investment up front..
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:22 AM   #19
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Buddy, I got to tell you, that ain't the first time you have done this type of work. Fantastic, you are a craftsman for sure. One thing that has my full attention is you said you ran your ceiling mold and base with your router, would you please show us some pictures of your set up. 41 years under my belt and I can't run ceiling mold that size with a router, are you sure you aren't using a molder? I can run coved ceiling mold that size with a table saw but not a router.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:50 AM   #20
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Thanks..kind words indeed.. I do my best, and if i get stuck I just try again..
I'm definitely using a router. The bit i'm using for the baseboard is about 3.25" long, and makes a nice piece of trim after one pass. I use 1x4 pine. The crown molding I run through twice, once for the bottom half, and then once for the top half. I use 1x6 pine boards, so each bit takes care of 2.75" per pass.
I then run the boards through a bit for the spring angle. I'm using 38/52, and run each board through twice, once for the wall angle, flip it over and once for the ceiling angle.

The picture of the router table below shows what it looked like out of the box from the store, and then I basically boxed it in and made a much larger fence allowing for feather boards of varying distance from the table to allow for 3.5" and 5.5" boards. I used angle iron to achieve as close to a 90' as possible for the fence, and 2x10 board to minimize deflection in the fence.

I studied a lot of youtube videos prior to starting the molding project, never owned a router before, but knew that if I wanted molding like that in my house the only way I'd be able to get it was to bite the bullet and do it myself. It might be in my blood since I grew up in Norway and the country is filled with very skilled woodworkers.. My great uncle carved several grandfather clocks, and my uncle continued that legacy. I'm a network administrator during the week, and it's nice to come home and do something with my hands!
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:53 AM   #21
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here's the bits i'm using..
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:01 AM   #22
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forgot about this one.. it shows the two passes required to achieve the 5.5" width.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:25 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarleifvaagen View Post
forgot about this one.. it shows the two passes required to achieve the 5.5" width.
Buddy, my hat's off to you, you have shown this ole man some new tricks, I didn't know they made those bits. Do you have any information about where and how to buy some of those bits and would you be willing to share that information?

For someone not in the business and can do what you have done with the tools you have shown here is remarkable, there is no telling what you could do with some really good tools. Please don't take it that I am knocking your tools but the tools I have see so far are for sure not the easiest to use. You are rare indeed.
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:08 AM   #24
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Thank you! like they say, the right tool is half the job!

if I only had the money for a molder..and a planer..and a joiner.. and a lathe..and..and..and...the list goes on.. The garage at this house has an insulated workshop, so I plan to expand my collection of tools as time goes on. I'm making a make-up vanity for my wife once we're moved in, so stay tuned as that project begins in about a month.

I bought the bits on eBay actually..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Freud-98-507-2-P...item51957b9eee

that auction resembles what I bought. The seller I bought from does not have any items listed at the moment, but the store is here..

http://myworld.ebay.com/ghsu2ia3/

I found that I can't make more than one pass per side, otherwise the one half will be thinner than the other and they won't line up properly in the middle.

The bits i bought are carbide tipped, and as long as I have the vacuum going the coating keeps the bit from getting too warm. Haven't had any huge issues with burnmarks, but it doesn't really matter since it's all painted white anyway. I'm not sure how well this little router would hold up against a harder wood..pine is pretty soft.
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarleifvaagen View Post
Thank you! like they say, the right tool is half the job!

if I only had the money for a molder..and a planer..and a joiner.. and a lathe..and..and..and...the list goes on.. The garage at this house has an insulated workshop, so I plan to expand my collection of tools as time goes on. I'm making a make-up vanity for my wife once we're moved in, so stay tuned as that project begins in about a month.

I bought the bits on eBay actually..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Freud-98-507-2-P...item51957b9eee

that auction resembles what I bought. The seller I bought from does not have any items listed at the moment, but the store is here..

http://myworld.ebay.com/ghsu2ia3/

I found that I can't make more than one pass per side, otherwise the one half will be thinner than the other and they won't line up properly in the middle.

The bits i bought are carbide tipped, and as long as I have the vacuum going the coating keeps the bit from getting too warm. Haven't had any huge issues with burnmarks, but it doesn't really matter since it's all painted white anyway. I'm not sure how well this little router would hold up against a harder wood..pine is pretty soft.
Thanks jarleifvaagen I really do appreciate the links, I will be checking in on some of them bad boys.
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:43 AM   #26
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when i worked in a custom millwork shop doing restoration on Monticello in charlottesville va. we used power feeders to keep material tight to rail. Are your feather boards adequate for pressure especially on your outfeed where your rail is offset? would think chatter and stop/go push feed might leave for a lot of sanding. thanks timothy
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpolk View Post
if you're running all your moldings on site, most excellent work
...to say the very least!!
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:37 AM   #28
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I've been busy lately, and haven't updated this in forever!

So here are some new pictures to continue the progress. The stairs were next, and then a final before/after picture of the dining/living area.

Thanks guys!
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