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Old 11-21-2010, 10:35 AM   #91
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Looks good and thanks for the site! The wife and I are deciding to use the same flooring that we have in the kitchen, it's Pergo Cherry Plank and they sell it at Home Depot and ifloors.com, which one do you think would be a better price (I get a 3% back for using my credit card when going to Home Depot)

Here is what it looks like:


We plan on doing the whole hall way and living room, living just the bedrooms with carpet and bathroom with laminate tiles. This should be a simple DIY job, right? Just stick these together and hit them together with a rubber mallet?
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:01 PM   #92
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Hmm, from what I can see that's a laminate. I didn't see it on IFloors. It looks like it's about 2.60 a sf? The reason I went with bamboo was durability. It's tougher than any hardwoods, and it's not a laminate - it's solid. Check out reviews of solid bamboo vs anything else if you think there's a chance you'd consider this route. Also, it's cheaper. So, two problems going this route - it won't match what you've already put down. And, this stuff needs to be glued down and would be quite a bit more work to do than a floating floor. So, I guess it all depends on what you want to spend vs durability vs matching vs work. IE:

Bamboo: cheaper, stronger, doesn't match, tougher to lay
Cherry: more expensive, not as durable, does match, easy to lay

The floor I put down was my first - so I have no doubt you'd be fine if you did a little research on laying it before diving in...

Otherwise - go with the cherry.
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:50 PM   #93
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Can bamboo come in multiple colors?
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:40 PM   #94
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you can get it "carbonized" I think it's called. Different darker shades. You can see what they look like at ifloors....
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:51 PM   #95
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How do you get measurements on how many sq ft is needed?
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:19 AM   #96
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I normally use a tape measure

Just multiply the room dimensions and add a little more, maybe 5%(some will be lost/trash on the ends)
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Old 11-24-2010, 05:52 PM   #97
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Okay thank you for the help. Unfortunately, every time I want to try and do a project, a family emergency happens.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:42 PM   #98
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While I was gone, I was coming up with a few more projects. Now here's the hard part, which project do I start to work on first?

- Replace carpet with wood in living room.
- Cut opening/remove wall in kitchen and dining room to open it up more.
- Backyard deck

They are all costly projects. I think removing the wall in the kitchen would be the least expensive, just removing the wall.
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:42 PM   #99
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We recently had our real estate agent out to show him all the stuff we did in the past year and get some guidance on future projects. Ideas like a family room renovation, master bath redo, finishing the garage, landscaping the yard, rewire, replace the furnace, and more. They all sounded fine to him, but he reminded us that in the end, kitchens, baths, and front yards (not backyards) sell houses. So we are prioritizing the front yard (cheap and easy but big impact), the kitchen (because we use it the most), the bath (because it's a bath) and postponing the others. Though I do plan some work on the family room because I can't stand its current state, but just some minor work. Likewise, I might insulate the garage ceiling so I can use it in January but I'll leave the walls and floor alone. We don't plan to move soon, but one never knows. Maybe next year I get laid off. Maybe we have another kid. Maybe I get hit by a bus. Life happens.

So -- I suggest the kitchen first, living room second, deck last. But if you really desire a deck and you never use your living room, then maybe do the deck second.

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Old 12-02-2010, 04:49 PM   #100
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Thanks for the advice, I plan to keep the house, but being in the Army, I can't promise I will. Any HowTo's on removing a wall?
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:16 PM   #101
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Sorry, I don't have experience with that.
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Old 12-03-2010, 12:44 AM   #102
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It's okay, my dad said it's easier than I think. Said just take off all the dry wall, and then figure out if it's holding the ceiling up, if it isn't, take the wood down.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:46 AM   #103
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I'd find out if the wall is load bearing before I do anything. Why mess with redoing drywall if you don't have to?

After you decide if you can do it, us a BFH to take down the wall.

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Old 12-03-2010, 09:03 AM   #104
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How do I find out? What is BFH?
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Old 12-03-2010, 03:23 PM   #105
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The easiest way to tell is to ask an architect or engineer.

Seriously now - my layman's understanding is that load bearing walls are generally perpendicular to the ceiling joists while non-loading bearing (aka partition) walls are generally parallel to the ceiling joists. Load bearing walls should always be 2 x 4 or greater while partition can be smaller. If you try to cut through a stud on a load bearing wall your saw may bind up.

If the wall is load bearing the steps for removal are trickier... that's not to say it can't be done, because it is done... but I would recommend calling a professional or someone who knows what he/she is doing.

Robert

P.S. Re BFH, I'm guessing B stands for big and H stands for hammer, you can probably guess what F stands for...
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