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01-28-2012, 03:33 PM
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#211
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Location: Northern California
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First Home, Many Projects
...think we're talking about two different things...
I meant this stuff:
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01-28-2012, 03:43 PM
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#212
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Location: Fayetteville, NC
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Oh yeah, that's all being nailed in tonight. Waiting for sealant to dry.
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01-28-2012, 03:43 PM
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#213
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Location: Northern California
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Ahhh. Good idea.
When it does dry, mop the floor with a fairly wet mop.
Any grout that changes color isn't sealed well enough.
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01-28-2012, 03:47 PM
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#214
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Location: Fayetteville, NC
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Thanks for the tip. The sealant was turning pink near the corners, didn't sweep good enough, lol.
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01-30-2012, 01:18 AM
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#215
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
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Bought the paint for the base boards and walls. Hung the cabinets tonight and the wife will have to paint and lay caulking on the base boards.
All in all, we're very pleased. I have one more thing I'd like to add to it. But, I leave tomorrow and won't be back for another few months. So her main focus will be the kitchen now.
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02-05-2012, 08:05 PM
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#216
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
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First Home, Many Projects
I told my wife we should get all new cabinets, she said she's afraid since we have custom cabinets no new cabinets would fit properly. Is this true?
HomeDepot wants $13,500 just to reface our cabinets!
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02-06-2012, 12:11 AM
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#217
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Location: Northern California
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$13,500 is nutso. You could get a very good amount of new cabs for that price.
I have factory spec'd cabs, and they don't fit perfectly on one wall. I also lose a bit of space because of that and reduced storage.
Consider resurfacing yourself if you hate them. Sanding and painting is time consuming but not too expensive.
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02-06-2012, 11:32 AM
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#218
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinggus
I told my wife we should get all new cabinets, she said she's afraid since we have custom cabinets no new cabinets would fit properly. Is this true?
HomeDepot wants $13,500 just to reface our cabinets!
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That depends on the layout of your kitchen. Most pre-made cabinets come in lots of different sizes...12", 15", 18", 24", 36"....that allow you to configure a kitchen with a fairly minimal loss of usable space. If you end up with a space of 2"-3" along a run, you just find a good place to put in a spacer insert.
I suggest you look around in your area for a discount cabinet wholesaler. You'll get a better deal than from HD and generally they have more expertise when it comes to layout and design options and solutions. For example in the DC area there is one called "Cabinet Discounters" that I visited. Quite a few lines of name-brand cabinets, from budget all the way to top of the line. A good place to visit to understand the spectrum of what's out there.
I ultimately went with IKEA for our cabinets, having used them before. They are your least expensive option and are generally better than the cheapest lines from the other manufacturers. Then again, you have to put them together yourself which is a pretty mind-numbing task.
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02-06-2012, 12:26 PM
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#219
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Member
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Location: Fayetteville, NC
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First Home, Many Projects
Thadius856, we already stained them. We just need custom made doors and that's it. But it's being a pain.
Ironlight, I looked at Ikea cabinets, they were going to cost us a few thousand. I picked out all the cabinets we needed and it was around $1k at Home Depot unfinished of course.
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02-12-2012, 06:56 AM
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#220
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
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First Home, Many Projects
Wife caulked and painted the laundry room. Once I she gets our iMac back, I'll get pictures.
Anyone know anything about hanging new interior doors? We have just plain flat doors, I'd like to replace them with this:
http://www.homedepot.com/Doors-Windo...kuId=202964933
All I have to do is match up the hinges correct?
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02-12-2012, 10:55 AM
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#221
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Location: Northern California
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More or less, yes. You linked a 24" door. Typically only closet doors are 24", so be sure to measure every door. Typical interior doors are 28" or 30", and exterior doors 36".
I have solid doors as well, in poor shape, and want to replace with 4- or 6-panel myself (though maybe not the exact door you linked), so I sincerely hope it's that easy. Had hoped to use our tax refund to do this very project, but it's coming to us smaller than we expected.
Be sure to buy ones with the mortises (edit: typo) pre-cut for the hinges, and note the size and shape of the mortises (edit: typo) (squared corners, slightly rounded, very rounded) and slap on new hinges while you're at it.
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Last edited by Thadius856; 02-12-2012 at 11:47 AM.
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02-12-2012, 11:44 AM
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#222
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
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I would actually not get doors pre-rabbeted for hinges because I would want to preserve the spacing of the existing hinges. Filling in old rabbeted cuts is a pain and takes a lot of work to make it look good, particularly if the old and new hinge placements overlap which they usually do.
It's pretty easy if you have a router, and not much harder if you don't. Just use a chisel.
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02-12-2012, 11:46 AM
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#223
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Member
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Location: Northern California
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If you do mortise your own doors, use extra caution with the lower-cost doors you linked. It's easy to punch holes in hollow fiberboard doors while trying to mortise them.
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02-12-2012, 01:26 PM
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#224
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Member
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Location: Fayetteville, NC
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Thanks for the heads up, I was just linking the door as an example.
Would I want to get a prehung door then?
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02-18-2012, 07:21 AM
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#225
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Member
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Location: Fayetteville, NC
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