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Old 04-25-2011, 08:25 AM   #61
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the screentight is supposed to go on the framing, which eliminates the need to make your own screens.

a closer look, before i dismantled what I had done




you may be able to take a closer look at this cropped version




the problem I had, and the reason I didn't like the look of the screentight, was that I framed the front in three sections (2 X 4s). it was easier for me alone and I didn't realize how bad the screentight would look when it was butted up against another piece (see pics above). it also doesn't look as good if everything is not square, which for me was very difficult given the age of the house. and finally, I struggled putting the spline and screen into the track standing on a ladder or platform. i eventually did it, but it took me a while. making the screen frames and adding the spline and screen is much easier on the ground.

so what I decided to do was use the screentight on the screens I build, but add molding to everything else. it actually looks a lot better, but it is much more work.

where I am, as of today


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Old 04-25-2011, 11:59 AM   #62
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It certainly does look better Joe. Kudos for not settling for what you viewed as sub-par.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:12 PM   #63
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made the cuts to see what it would look like




I still have to add the screen frame/screen, but I think it works.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:55 PM   #64
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You may want to address the sills that are almost falling out of the dados before you go too much further.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:45 PM   #65
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I hear ya Ron.

I added the dados after everything was framed. I didn't like the way the horizontal pieces looked when just nailed in. I carefully made a bunch of crosscuts with a circular saw and cleaned out the dadoes with a chisel.
Everything is wedged in pretty tight, although I do agree I could have done much better. I've added some screws to add additional support.

Because I am not 100% square with the vertical pieces I can't get the horizontals in any better. They haven't loosened at all even with the expansion and contraction.
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:38 PM   #66
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:36 PM   #67
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looking better? I feel like it is. I've taken trial and error to the extreme with this project. But I definitely can tell in recent weeks that I am taking many more steps forward than back. Feels good to see everything coming together.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:42 PM   #68
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Looks good Joe.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:53 PM   #69
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Can anyone suggest a composite that I can use for the wider vertical and horizontal pieces? Up to this point I've been ripping the timbron that I purchased early on in this project. Glad it didn't go to waste. I need pieces that are over 4.5" wide.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:09 AM   #70
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You already have it half trimmed out with Timbron, go get some more.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:33 AM   #71
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hey Ron,

as far as I can tell, they don't carry the widths I need. Poor planning on my part.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:38 AM   #72
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You can’t be a trim man without owning a table saw.

You make your own pieces.
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:02 AM   #73
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I finally have a table saw, a Delta contractors saw off of craigslist. My issue now is finding something that I can rip to the proper width/height. I've ripped the timbron down to about 2 1/2" for the pieces around the windows. They are now white/no profile, should be easy to match. I am going to bring a piece of the timbron to a lumber yard that also sells some composites. It looks like Aztec has what I am looking for. thanks for taking a look.

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Old 05-26-2011, 08:12 AM   #74
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Use a router to profile the cut edge.

I’m not sure why you would switch brands midstream. I don’t do plastic so I don’t know the brand differences but I know that all whites are not created equal and you may have color match problems if you switch.
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Old 06-11-2011, 01:21 PM   #75
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some updated pics... using AZEK






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