Complete re-do of my '80 main bath - let the demo begin

derf36

I've got 10 days vacation so I am going to gut and completely renovate my main bathroom.

First a bit of background. We bought our first house 14 years ago and over the years I have tackled all kinds of DIY projects. They started off small and slowly got bigger and better as I learned some things along the way.

My first project 10 years ago was to update our main bath. The enamel surface had worn off the tub and the floor was in serious need of a change but our budget, and my ability didn't allow for much at the time. I did repaint the vanity, tiled the floor, and tiled the tub surround. It improved things but the tub was still ugly.

Fast forward a decade and things have changed. Over the years I've pretty much gutted and redone the entire house one project at a time. I've moved some walls around, installed hardwood, doors, kitchen; you name it we've done it. I even have a thread on here somewhere from two summers ago when I put on new hardi-siding and windows.

On to today. It is now time for the main bath. I have some vacation days, a sledge hammer, and a good attitude; what else does a guy need?

I snapped some before pictures this morning. I'll be updating this post with my progress along the way.

Let the demo begin - Wish me luck.



Trips to Home Depot - 14

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derf36

When I tiled the surround 10 years ago I didn't have the benefit of this website to look up the do's and don'ts. All I had was my trusty neighbour who said "just use that green drywall and tile right over it.".

It seemed like reasonable advice at the time so I did just that. No cement board, no waterproofing membrane, no kerdi board, just simple untouched green drywall under the tile. The shower has seen daily use with our family of 5. I busted into in knowing that I would be facing all sorts of yuck and nastiness lurking behind that tile.

I was surprised to see it dry, dry, dry. The drywall looked as good as the day it went in. I figure about 15,000 showers with water in direct contact with the tile, Weird eh?

I am not changing my strategy though. I consider this one a fluke and I'm using Kerdi this time.

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derf36

I spent some time staring at this thing wondering how I'm going to wedge this thing out of here.

Just kept wiggling, and lifting, and pushing, and swearing, and more pulling and it finally was out. Whew.

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derf36

What's wrong in this picture?

I'm no expert in code compliance but I figure this electrical wouldn't cut the mustard.

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derf36

Another trip to Home Depot to pick up a 3" cold chisel and I tackled the floor.

It's a good thing I wasn't watching the clock so I don't know how long it is taking me to remove the floor tiles. I figure it was a good 3 hours chipping away and I'm still only about 3/4 done.

End of Day 1; time for a cold beer.

Here is a sneak peak of the new floor tile.

Total trips to Home Depot = 15

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oh'mike

I'm watching---keep up the pictures---Green board was a popular material for showers back in the day-----You got lucky--good tile and caulk work,no doubt---a few bucks on good materials sure does let you get a better nights sleep---

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derf36

Working on the ceiling today.

Dropping the ceiling above the shower to install a light. Lying on my stomach in the attic running wire is not my idea of a good time.

There was a hole in the ceiling from an old built in speaker. decided to scrap it and re-drywall the whole thing.

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derf36

A question for you drywall experts.

I have two small drywall pieces that are too narrow to get screws into. My trusses are 24" oc and the 16" strip runs parallel to the truss so have nothing to screw into.

Can I just use silicone caulk to "glue" the 16" strip to the ceiling above?

PS. I think I already know the answer; pull it down and start over. Just hoping there is an acceptable way that would make it look good but is easier than pulling it all down.

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Ravenworks

You can fix anything sonny, long as you throw money.
Seriously,have fun and post progress pictures!

oh'mike

I think that adding some blocking might work---

Also in the floor demo pictures---did I see old vinyl peal and stick under the plywood with the ceramic glued to it?

If so--good idea to remove the top ply--remove the peal and stick and the 1/4" underlayment (if the sticky tiles have an underlayment)

A sandwich of floor sheeting can be to flexible for tile--best to have --subfloor--and perhaps 1/2" ab ply on top--then 1/4" Wonder board or Durrock--set in thinset and nailed or screwed.

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derf36

Good observation Mike.

The sheet vinyl was removed prior to adding the top layer of subfloor in tile job v1. The left over bit you see was, until yesterday, buried under the vanity. It will go tomorrow.

The layers now are 3/4 inch ply with 3/8 ply over it.

Over that will be the heating mat and a layer of self leveling compound.

Thanks for watching.

Ps. 3 more trips to home depot today so I'm up to 18 trips; once today to buy a tub, once to return the tub, then another to buy a different tub, efficient eh?





Tomorrow morning I'm going back to buy more drywall

oh'mike

Don't get ahead of your self---all electric and plumbing upgrades before the drywall--

Exhaust fan done? Vanity outlet at the right height? Blocking in the tub for grab rails? Extra studs for mounting a tub door?Tub mixer valve in and tested?

Good going so far---keep us posted---Mike---

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derf36

pulled the ceiling drywall down and flipped in 90 degrees so now everything is screwed tight the right way.

Now I get to goop on twice as much mud as I probably need and create an enormous dust cloud.

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derf36

Spent the morning today sanding and mudding and sanding some more. Who would have thought that one little bathroom ceiling would cause so much dust.

I'm using twice as much joint compound than a pro would use but it will likely turn out ok. Any imperfections in the ceiling corners will be hidden behind crown so it's all good.

This afternoon I finished up the floor prep so I'm ready to install my heating pad and pour my self leveling compound over it. The prep involved building and sealing a 3/8" barrier on the perimeter, think swimming pool.

Ravenworks

Do a continuity test on your mat before you tile,trust me it's worth it and only takes a second to do.