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Chris the DIY guy vs. "The Ranch"

882K views 462 replies 44 participants last post by  sleepyg 
#1 ·
My wife and I purchased a foreclosure in June of 2009. We originally looked at the home in April of that year but due to complications with the house did not close until June. When the home inspector looked at the house originally he found 95 items that needed to be replaced/repaired or remodeled. A few of the had to be addressed by the bank before the sale so that contributed to the delay in closing.

So I have begun the journey of completing this list. As of the writing of this initial post I am tearing out the kitchen in order to remodel it. Issues regarding this can be found in this post. I have started a blog with the same title as I will be positing updates. There is always something with this project! Unexpected and unusual.

A few photos of the exterior and some of the items needing attention:
 

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#134 ·
FOUND THIS IN FURNACE!

Don't know why this happened or whether it will occur again. Shortened wire and put new tab connector on. Will check it in a couple of days. Delta rise is better but still isn't ROCKIN'...

This unit is on the long list to be replaced like the other one. Will keep going with the Band-Aids.
 

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#157 ·
What was that ... that you found?
That is heat sequincer or relay depending on the set up and I know alot of HP { heat pumps } will have back up electric heat in there and the numbers of relays will depending on the size of electric heater itself.

Merci.
Marc
 
#136 ·
Don't know name for it but it was one of the 120v lines running from the breaker to the resistance heat strip. Had melted and was carbonized. Something shorted out but there was nothing visible that could have made a contact closure?

Getting a delta rise now of about 10 additional degrees, which still isn't at spec.
 
#142 ·
This corner will need some brainstorming. I can either box it out but will look odd, as before demo, or I can move vent into this wall. Trouble is it goes straight down into soil stack and trying to offset may be too hard with all the ducts and wires in place. The electrical line is the main branch to the upstairs TV room. I can pull it out of the circuit breaker panel (or hire electrician after the HVAC guys apprentice caused the most sparks I have ever seen pulling one out) reroute into wall and place back into panel.

...and no that romex was not attached to anything...
 

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#147 ·
Currently working on the arduous task of planning out the drain vents.
Need to locate new location of toilet in Master Bath and make sure it clears the floor joist. It appears I will be yet again taking a shower in blow in insulation as I create a hole to pass the drain vent into attic. I hope I can cut off this elbow and replace with sanitary tee and alignment doesn't get thrown off.
 

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#148 ·
Master bathroom redesign is going to call for the new toilet to go about 2'-3' away from the main drain line. To connect I will need to tie straight in at an angle that is maybe more than 45 degrees. Will need to select the fittings I am sure a long sweep is in order so there is no impaction, unless this wouldn't happen.

This will also call for removal of one of the supply ducts. Good thing is the one headed to the closet which will become the shower will no longer be side so will swap it over. Thing is I will need to put at least a 6" hole in an IP joist. Specifically an IPI-200 joist. Will need to find info for this.
 
#149 ·
OK, this gets worse. The drain from the old master sink goes through the floor and creates a notch in the top of the IP joist. It is clearly more than 3 feet away from an outside wall. I don't think the wall below it actually reaches the joist to make it weight bearing. The plan was to move the drain a few inches but this will mean cutting a hole and notching the joist myself, and in the same area! :eek:

Will post pics.

So far I found for one type of engineered joist you can cut webbing up to four inches from flange. Will need to verify for my brand.
 
#153 ·
are the flanges 3.5" wide? looks like you need to check for sag at that point with straight edge to see if it has moved, those are pretty beefy joists and you may be able to still do some laminating after talking to the joist manufacturer
 
#154 · (Edited)
Here is the view from the other side. Top flange is cut through with about 2-1/4" of the top of the webbing. :no:

In the very lower left and bottom of photo you can see a framed wall. Trouble is I can stick a sheet of paper in-between the joist and the top about half way.
 

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#155 ·
Well, it's beginning to look like the path of least resistance will be to use the old bedroom that was going to be the master closet and make it the master bathroom instead. Instead of trying to maneuver, relocate, the stack vent, tie in two bathrooms into it and trying to put 4" drain in a basement with HVAC ducts galore, just isn't easy.

Instead I can run the "soon to be" 1" hot and cold line over and build a new drain system to exit out foundation wall right into the septic line.

Removing the santee and replacing with a coupling is so much easier!:yes: All I will need to focus on is getting hall bathroom up to code. Will need to involve a roofer and a plumber to do the new soil stack vent. Yes, I will have the soil stack vent right behind the toilet! :laughing:
 
#159 ·
I have see that in simauir fashon in France { that where I am now } and it not too bad at all beside what this guy did use stainless steel cabents to match the stainless steel tiles kinda instering set up.

I did the wiring in that place it was not too bad at all.

Merci.
Marc
 
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#160 ·
I have found a device that will allow for adequate repair of the damaged joist. They also sell a product which will allow me to cut a 3" hole in the webbing which opens the door back up to the original design with the Schluter-Kerdi 48" x 48" shower kit, a bench and curb surround. The jury is still out on whether the new toilet location can be done due to it's location almost directly above main drain line.
 

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