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Old 04-05-2010, 06:31 PM   #31
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Took some measurements and the back wall of the shower has a clearance to the roof at ceiling line of about 42 inches. With the pitch of the roof I think I am going to be hard pressed to get an access hatch min. 22" x 30" in the ceiling of the next room (pantry) to clear at 30" its whole width. I would then be forced to put the access above the shower, no, in the corner of the master bedroom, not! Will look to re-fill through hole cut in wall from loft. I figure I can save money by re-blowing insulation that's already in there.

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Old 04-16-2010, 12:54 AM   #32
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Started brainstorming on trying to convert a bedroom into a bathroom. The existing bathroom is on the other side of bedroom at bottom of sketch and it's size is better suited for a closet.

The house has a unique design in that all the bedrooms are on the first floor. Above the bedroom to be converted is a loft. Because of this there are no walls above the room on two sides. The third wall is an exterior wall. In my design the shower utilizes the existing closet just deepened. The space for the toilet is the current entry to bedroom. The entire space below is a conditioned basement. The closest I can put a vent would be in the area marked. Can you put a toilet this far away from a vent provided the flow of waste is going to go directly to the septic line outside the opposite direction of the vent? All drains will most likely tee into this line as it runs to exterior wall. Tub will have to have a vent of its own, in the exterior wall.

This is an existing home so the bigger question is this going to require too much demolition? Not sure if code will allow AAV? See attached scale sketch.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:45 PM   #33
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All, holes in the sole plates have been sealed with fire stop. Walls have been closed up and I have begun joint treatment and plastering.

Bamboo Registers arrived in the mail so will be picking up the remaining boxes of Bamboo flooring. Next on agenda finish the painting of the doors and start on the floor!

It's been suggested to use "real" rosin paper and not the cheap red stuff. Will give a brief look into this otherwise will pick up 15# roofing felt and start nailing!
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:13 PM   #34
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I sure hope you got a good deal with all the screw ups your having to fix, make that a give away deal! You sure aren't scared. Just like me and my project. Best of luck, dorf dude...
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:19 AM   #35
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I sure hope you got a good deal with all the screw ups your having to fix, make that a give away deal! You sure aren't scared. Just like me and my project. Best of luck, dorf dude...
Yep! $100,000 less than owed to bank and it's value!
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:58 AM   #36
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It's about 4,000 sq. ft. of which 3,900 s. ft. needed/needs some kind of work! Will be posting more before photos in a few days.
That's a better percentage then my last house - it was 100% there !!
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:53 PM   #37
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A few pictures of the kitchen work progress. Walls closed up with one more plastering step to complete. Largest hole was for the new exhaust for the Advantium. Advantium comes with recirculating vent with external option. I have never been a fan of recirculating vents don't seem to work IMHO. We are going to go for induction cook-top. This will be a new experience for us. So far the demos are impressive. Will need all new cookware...

Overall view of the wall where cabinets wil go and up close of the major modifications.

Will be finishing up picture rail and then to the floor. Will probably start painting door casings a little each night so when floor is complete can move quickly to install.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:34 PM   #38
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OK! I am having a beast of a time finding studs to nail the picture rail into. The 5/8" drywall is causing issues with my stud finder. Will try new batteries but I don't think that will help!
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:14 AM   #39
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TED 5000 Update

So far this is a very good investment our typical electrical consumption right now is $0.08/hr and goes up to $0.35/hr while HVAC is running. When new heat pump is installed this will probably double. Considering the cost of back up electric heat will definitely replace second unit. Just don't know with what. Second hydronic hybrid or variable speed hybrid? Variable speed is more efficient but a beast of an install since air-handler is in an interior closet with no exterior walls within 12 feet and no roof/walls above for exhaust.

Started closing up front porch as we have a squirrel(s) living in roof. Will need to make a trap door so they can get out but cannot get back in...
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:21 AM   #40
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Well, I have one less squirrel in the roof of the front porch. The squirrels are eating holes in the roof...I hate squirrels! Closed up more of the porch but will have to get the remainder of them out before the final closure. Have two traps set up outside with peanut butter will see if this works.

The picture rail molding looks very nice! As hard as it was using a coping saw to cut a cope joint it was well worth it. Since the corners were never 90 degrees it worked great for this.

I spent this evening May 2nd cutting the duct to put in the new cased coil for the heat pump. Should have that completed tomorrow with the low voltage wiring. I am going to have to replace the 8" x 24" return duct. The previous owner used Thermo-pan and this stuff is like foil coated cardboard and will not stay together with duct tape. Need good old fashioned screws! See post #4 in this thread for comparison.

Once I get the new evaporator coil in will have contractor come out and braze the line-set charge and run unit. So then the house will be fully conditioned again. Since the heat (emergency) is hydronic will need to re-fill the lines I had to drain to get coil in.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:01 AM   #41
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Cased coil is in place! Will run low-voltage wire and the line-set to the outside to await connection, weather permitting. I went ahead and re-taped the thermo-pan stuff so I can get this done and move back to working on the kitchen. If the negative pressure from use pulls it apart again I'll deal with it then. I put enough tape on to hold it.

It's always a good idea to "completely" tighten your unions before you re-fill the hydronic coil!!! , whoops!

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Old 05-06-2010, 01:00 AM   #42
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Kitchen has been cleaned, vacuumed and ready for the new floor!

Will need to check manufacturer's specs to see whether to use nails or staples. Guy at rental center encouraged me to check since the wrong fastener can void warranty he says.
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:37 AM   #43
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next time you do small moldings and want to miter check angle with bevel square and split that angle. with paint grade molding that small a slight gap is easily caulked
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:47 AM   #44
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Quote:
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next time you do small moldings and want to miter check angle with bevel square and split that angle. with paint grade molding that small a slight gap is easily caulked
So instead of doing cope joint allow for a small gap and caulk, gotcha!
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:25 PM   #45
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Well, When asking a completely different question I have found out my sump pump discharge was not done correctly. The house when inspection was done in April '09 had yellow pipes pushed down the 4" pipe leading into the sump well. However that's the way the water comes in. This was disconnected and a radon system was put in. I now have to make a hole in the outside wall to send the water directly to the outside, the correct way. Can my to do list stop growing...

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