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Chris the DIY guy vs. "The Ranch"

882K views 462 replies 44 participants last post by  sleepyg 
#1 ·
My wife and I purchased a foreclosure in June of 2009. We originally looked at the home in April of that year but due to complications with the house did not close until June. When the home inspector looked at the house originally he found 95 items that needed to be replaced/repaired or remodeled. A few of the had to be addressed by the bank before the sale so that contributed to the delay in closing.

So I have begun the journey of completing this list. As of the writing of this initial post I am tearing out the kitchen in order to remodel it. Issues regarding this can be found in this post. I have started a blog with the same title as I will be positing updates. There is always something with this project! Unexpected and unusual.

A few photos of the exterior and some of the items needing attention:
 

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#33 ·
All, holes in the sole plates have been sealed with fire stop. Walls have been closed up and I have begun joint treatment and plastering.

Bamboo Registers arrived in the mail so will be picking up the remaining boxes of Bamboo flooring. Next on agenda finish the painting of the doors and start on the floor! :thumbup:

It's been suggested to use "real" rosin paper and not the cheap red stuff. Will give a brief look into this otherwise will pick up 15# roofing felt and start nailing!
 
#37 ·
A few pictures of the kitchen work progress. Walls closed up with one more plastering step to complete. Largest hole was for the new exhaust for the Advantium. Advantium comes with recirculating vent with external option. I have never been a fan of recirculating vents don't seem to work IMHO. We are going to go for induction cook-top. This will be a new experience for us. So far the demos are impressive. Will need all new cookware...:eek:

Overall view of the wall where cabinets wil go and up close of the major modifications.

Will be finishing up picture rail and then to the floor. Will probably start painting door casings a little each night so when floor is complete can move quickly to install.
 

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#38 ·
OK! I am having a beast of a time finding studs to nail the picture rail into. The 5/8" drywall is causing issues with my stud finder. Will try new batteries but I don't think that will help! :furious:
 
#39 · (Edited)
Ted 5000

TED 5000 Update

So far this is a very good investment our typical electrical consumption right now is $0.08/hr and goes up to $0.35/hr while HVAC is running. When new heat pump is installed this will probably double. Considering the cost of back up electric heat will definitely replace second unit. Just don't know with what. Second hydronic hybrid or variable speed hybrid? Variable speed is more efficient but a beast of an install since air-handler is in an interior closet with no exterior walls within 12 feet and no roof/walls above for exhaust.

Started closing up front porch as we have a squirrel(s) living in roof. Will need to make a trap door so they can get out but cannot get back in...:beta1:
 
#40 · (Edited)
Well, I have one less squirrel in the roof of the front porch. The squirrels are eating holes in the roof...I hate squirrels! :furious: Closed up more of the porch but will have to get the remainder of them out before the final closure. Have two traps set up outside with peanut butter will see if this works.

The picture rail molding looks very nice! As hard as it was using a coping saw to cut a cope joint it was well worth it. Since the corners were never 90 degrees it worked great for this.

I spent this evening May 2nd cutting the duct to put in the new cased coil for the heat pump. Should have that completed tomorrow with the low voltage wiring. I am going to have to replace the 8" x 24" return duct. The previous owner used Thermo-pan and this stuff is like foil coated cardboard and will not stay together with duct tape. Need good old fashioned screws! See post #4 in this thread for comparison.

Once I get the new evaporator coil in will have contractor come out and braze the line-set charge and run unit. So then the house will be fully conditioned again. Since the heat (emergency) is hydronic will need to re-fill the lines I had to drain to get coil in.
 

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#41 · (Edited)
Cased coil is in place! Will run low-voltage wire and the line-set to the outside to await connection, weather permitting. I went ahead and re-taped the thermo-pan stuff so I can get this done and move back to working on the kitchen. If the negative pressure from use pulls it apart again I'll deal with it then. I put enough tape on to hold it.

It's always a good idea to "completely" tighten your unions before you re-fill the hydronic coil!!! :laughing:, whoops!

--
 

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#42 ·
Kitchen has been cleaned, vacuumed and ready for the new floor! :thumbup:

Will need to check manufacturer's specs to see whether to use nails or staples. Guy at rental center encouraged me to check since the wrong fastener can void warranty he says. :mad:
 

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#45 ·
Well, When asking a completely different question I have found out my sump pump discharge was not done correctly. The house when inspection was done in April '09 had yellow pipes pushed down the 4" pipe leading into the sump well. However that's the way the water comes in. This was disconnected and a radon system was put in. I now have to make a hole in the outside wall to send the water directly to the outside, the correct way. Can my to do list stop growing...
 
#46 ·
Contractor came and brazed the lines, charged the system and ran a test so the North Side heat pump is up and running! Whoo Hoo! Now I get to tweak my software to get the most efficiency out of both units. Will use the TED 5000 to determine if there is any potential savings putting similar system in the South Side of house.

Started on the bamboo floor, this was surprising. It turned out to be a lot easier than I thought, but it's taking a lot longer than I thought. I am currently in the bulk of the floor, most of the time today was spent cutting the floor around the flush registers. Will encounter the fourth tomorrow, a bit easier since it's perpendicular to the floor slats.

Photo tomorrow 5/13/10
 
#47 ·
Almost there!

...with the floor...

This is where I had completed the floor as of Friday 5/14/2010. I am have completed as much as can be done with the pneumatic nailer and will be finishing by hand nailing. The Advantium also arrived today 5/17/2010 so will be picking that up so can move quickly to installing wall cabinets and installing the Advantium, then begin painting the baseboards and door casings.

If the weather holds up will need to complete the exhaust duct to the outside this week.
 

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#48 · (Edited)
Bamboo floor completed today 5/19/10 at 12:55pm. :thumbup: Started right away into wall cabinet installation. One more cabinet to hang and will move to basement to complete range exhaust. Hopefully that's a single evening project. Although the only place I found duct support brackets was Menard's and they don't accept Am-Ex. :furious: As a result don't shop there too often.

Will need to order the kitchen sink, it has to be built into the sink cabinet.

Rain & T-Storms all week...
 
#51 · (Edited)
The new HVAC unit is complete! See first photo. A new local HVAC contractor came in and ran the lines outside to the condenser unit. I put in the condensate pump to the outside until I am able to move the utility sink back into the basement and install the Hartell LTA. The unit is very quiet and compared to the older unit in the south half of the house and cycles far less. I posted a question about this and the consensus is that its not because it's a new unit. Will need to figure out how to overcome the strange return vent location the original owner constructed. See second photo. Short of tearing out a wall and running a vent to the ceiling we are having to run ceiling fans constantly to even out the upstairs and downstairs. As you can see the ceiling on the second floor is a cathedral type which only magnifies the problem. The return is in the top and (I added) in the wall of the closet where the air-handler is. Lower right in photo.
 

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#52 ·
The kitchen wall cabinets are about 90% done. I need to tidy up the wires for the "in cabinet" lighting and place the decorative trim across the bottom of the cabinets. I have to finish the base cabinets after I put up the Durock Tile Membrane for the back splash. I have installed the Advantium oven and its working beautifully! With the ceilings as they were constructed I had to cut a hole through the floor into the basement to run the exhaust to the outside. I wound up making my own duct support.
 

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#53 ·
Along the way I put in two ceiling fans on the second floor. Beforehand the upstairs was 15 degrees warmer than downstairs and we hadn't had any real hot days yet. I also installed the front porch's ceiling fan and also closed up the openings in the sides and front where squirrels were entering. You can see the new wood in the photo.

Next photos will be after I get all the base cabinets in. Have one more to pick up. No store locally has the Durock Tile Membrane so will order online.
 

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#54 ·
Remember to keep your exhaust duct terminations 3' minimum from a window opening, door, or supply opening (furnace supply, etc.) to the house. You probably already strapped your water tanks against seismic movement, and run the TPR valve discharge down near the floor.... Looking good.

Be safe, Gary
 
#55 · (Edited)
Remember to keep your exhaust duct terminations 3' minimum from a window opening, door, or supply opening (furnace supply, etc.) to the house. You probably already strapped your water tanks against seismic movement, and run the TPR valve discharge down near the floor.... Looking good.

Be safe, Gary
Uh, Oh! I thought that only referred to exhaust from a combustion source like a furnace, boiler or water heater. A little late to move it. :whistling2: Those water heaters are not being used and I really need somebody to haul them off. They did work, now on Rinnai tankless. I probably should get them out of that room and eBay.
 
#56 ·
My mistake! I was researching it from memory, and...... It was bathroom fans I was thinking about. If you ever use a hood fan around vinyl siding, I suggest some trim to keep the two far apart. I had a family of raccoons in my attic for a winter..... I know what you are going through!--- lol.

Be safe, Gary
 
#57 ·
Will be placing order for the kitchen sink today. Will need to build a support structure in cabinet for it. Although the sink is an under-counter sink it doesn't attach to the counter-top with clips. I would guess it's because the sink is cast iron.

I also need to start building the support structure to put underneath the oven cabinet. Specs require a support that can hold 200 lbs! That's a big turkey! :laughing: Actually the oven empty weighs 190 lbs. Wow!

The door casing I chose to put throughout the house turns out to be special order in Oak. So once I finish kitchen (using painted Poplar) will start the arduous task of replacing all the casings and trim.
 
#58 · (Edited)
Also, on the list is closing up the unfinished soffits. I will need input on squirrel and raccoon behavior to determine if I can wait till fall since now wasp are everywhere!!! I'm not looking forward to working on the very steep roof either. I'm thinking I will need to rent a bucket truck...

Found out the "roof closet" being an unconditioned space is contributing to the increased upstairs temperature. Used spray foam around door frame and this has reduced heat transmission. See pictures in post #3

EDIT: Isn't this incorrect? If this space is not conditioned there shouldn't be insulation on the walls right? I have no intention of converting this to a conditioned space, previous owner might have? Is there any other reason walls would be insulated? The interior of the roof on the other side has blow in insulation in it so there is more than likely insulation below the roof in the roof closet.
 
#59 ·
Well, I am not going to be done by the Fourth of July :(

Here is where I am with the kitchen. Will need to pick up another cabinet(s) to go on the end. We have decided to plan for the Tulikivi so the peninsula end has to be ordered differently. Once I have the remaining cabinets in place will order the counter-top. Sink is estimated to arrive July 19th...
 

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#60 ·
That's coming along nicely! Don't forget to spray foam around the ducting at the rim penetration and the wires through the floor (fire-stop).

I will correct myself yet again, right the first time: "Range hood exhaust duct shall terminate outside, shall have a 3’ clearance to windows
and doors and other openings, shall be air tight and be equipped with a back draft
damper. Ducting shall be galvanized steel, stainless steel, or copper, with a smooth
interior finish. CMC 504.2 (4)"

Keep up the good work!

Be safe, Gary
 
#61 · (Edited)
That's coming along nicely! Don't forget to spray foam around the ducting at the rim penetration and the wires through the floor (fire-stop).

I will correct myself yet again, right the first time: "Range hood exhaust duct shall terminate outside, shall have a 3’ clearance to windows
and doors and other openings, shall be air tight and be equipped with a back draft
damper. Ducting shall be galvanized steel, stainless steel, or copper, with a smooth
interior finish. CMC 504.2 (4)"

Keep up the good work!

Be safe, Gary
Thanks! With no way to vent vertically and any run farther horizontal to clear a window being outside of maximum duct run, not sure how to have gotten around this. This exit only left me with 5 equivalent feet left to work with. Couldn't exceed 140 equivalent feet. Recirculating just doesn't work.

I have since sprayed more fire-stop spray foam around new appliance electrical. Used Handi-Foam, I like it, the cleaner spray is real nice.

...being safe...
 
#62 ·
Ooookaayyy! The sink I ordered weighs 125 lbs.!!! So I will need to make a heavy modification of the 36" sink base cabinet. Will have to brainstorm on this since the cabinets do not have the conventional front frame. Probably should add some support to the bottom.
 
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