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Old 01-02-2011, 11:47 PM   #166
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Chris the DIY guy vs. "The Ranch"


This is probably the last design tweak I'll do until I get a go ahead on the plumbing rough in. It will take me a month to tile this bathroom...
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:52 AM   #167
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The sink we are planning to use is the Rve 39" pedestal lavatory. Same dimensions of the Escale but its not in the 3-D warehouse. Here is a picture of it.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:51 PM   #168
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It's pretty. I can't wait to see the bathroom when it's finished.
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:09 PM   #169
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Wow, it'd take me a YEAR to tile that!

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Old 01-08-2011, 10:51 PM   #170
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The Verdict is IN!

The toilet can be placed in the location in the plan "A." The entire drain configuration is going to be removed and replaced. I will no longer have to deal with the 15" run and 18" drop. Instead the line will run immediately underneath. Once its done will post photos.

Will be moving the vent to within the wall. Oddly, the pipe as it enters the floor doesn't go straight down to drain like I thought, its far more convoluted in joist space, prompting the complete re-do.
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:40 AM   #171
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Well, certainly glad you got THAT sorted out!

Sorry I haven't posted here before, life has been getting in the way. I'll try to keep up with you a bit more in future.

Any tile problems...look up Bud Cline. He's the best.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:00 AM   #172
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Well, I am now forced to make another big decision. Turns out the duct for the exhaust fan is the cheap foil and wire type and is 4". As far as I can tell its connected to an eave type exhaust vent on the outside. In the Broan literature they say you need at least a 160 cfm fan to use these??? OK, a 160 cfm fan requires 6" or 8" duct. With all the blow in insulation getting to eave is going to be a nightmare! The other option which I'd like to avoid but it seems I have no choice is roof penetration. BUT, the soils stack vent pipe is right here? I am forced to use an insufficient size duct, I'll just have to hope for the best! Highest I can get in 4" is 110 cfm. I feel cold air so just maybe this isn't a broan eave vent and there is no damper at the terminus???
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:29 AM   #173
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The Kohler "Groove" shower receptor required that a pretty large hole had to be cut in the sub-floor. With the previous drain hole cut I reinforced the floor where the blue square is located. I will need to put in a piece of OSB underneath where the red square is and then fill with floor leveling compound before I glue down the receptor.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:38 AM   #174
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Here is where I am with the shower framing. Once the plumbing in the left wall is complete will continue with the framing of the new ceiling. Currently bringing it down about 8". This should give me room for the new recessed can lights, and exhaust fan. See post #172. You can see where I removed the old fan and the cheesy vent pipe for it.

I am going to have to go back to using a real camera and not this phone to take pictures. You cannot see the markings for where the shower framing will be once I finish drain vent pipes.
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Old 01-20-2011, 11:13 AM   #175
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Yes your eyes are not deceiving you! There is 12 gauge wire running into this box and 14 gauge coming out. I am going to post to electrical forum but I think this is a serious NO NO!
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Old 01-20-2011, 11:36 AM   #176
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Well, no post needed found confirmation in previous posts. The big question is, as I had already flagged this circuit, is that is has a 15A breaker on it in the panel. So I or my electrician will need to:
  1. Change breaker to 20A AFCI
  2. Find a 15A circuit to pull up instead. I'm getting writer's cramp working with this 12 gauge
  3. Since same thing is done on wall outlet will need to install new GFCI
Do I need to change the 15A circuit I am going to use to a new AFCI? What I don't understand is why there are two hot lines running into the same box? This was done again on the lower bath wall outlet. Since wire disappears into floor above I cannot just remove the outlet all together. Will need to find 20A tamper resistant GFCI.
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:36 PM   #177
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Here is the plumbing rough in and framing modification for the recessed vanity mirror/cabinet. I more than likely will change the hot water supply to a 45 street and then a 90 to get more of the 1/2" pipe behind the wall. Had to do a quick and dirty to get water back on.

As in an earlier post the engineered joist was cut below this location so I had to use the existing holes.
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:46 PM   #178
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I have done a similar modification in the hall bathroom. This will also get a recessed mirror/cabinet. You can also see the ceiling and shower framing in progress. Rough plumbing and electrical to follow.
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:30 PM   #179
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This house has reached the point of completely gutting and starting from scratch! I just need the money to do it!

After thinking about my earlier post I went into the basement to look at the circuit breaker panel. There are only two (2) Romex lines going into the panel that are 14 gauge. However, there are five (5) 15A breakers in the panel. One is unused as it took place of half a 220V that was no longer needed with new air-handler. So on the panel end can change to 20A, however now I have multiple lines of 14 gauge on a 20A circuit...

However, I have encountered 14 gauge wire in numerous places which means I have multiple places where there are 14 gauge wires connected to 12 gauge somewhere.

How else do you fix this???
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Old 01-27-2011, 11:51 AM   #180
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I have begun the bathroom re-wire and pulled up a new 15A line dedicated to this bathroom. AFCI breakers ARE HUGE!!! It's a good thing I work in circuit panels with the power "outside" turned off at service disconnect.

Will be installing 15A receptacles in this room. Will need to figure out an appropriate pattern for recessed can lights. One directly over pedestal and one directly over toilet seems best. So the others in symmetry?

The four gang box I installed is deep enough I should have no issues with the 12 gauge splice in the back. Had I tried this still using 12 four the switches might not have flown. Need to get switch color squared away. I guess it will boil down to where the tile paint interface is located.

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