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Old 03-15-2011, 07:07 PM   #16
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Been plugging away little by little- SAt we just went to look at granite colors and ended up buying some stuff for SUPER cheap just cause it was on sale for %50 off. I got three 36x 120 slabs of this for $283. Not our first pick on the color but i think it will match the slate and look good enough. Sure beats the $1300 we were looking at spending.


its the middle slab


my first choice is this darker granite but the wife isnt having it, she thinks its always going to look dirty



I also got the old wall and planter box wall removed and sold off. Looks like there was tan bark along the fence on the one side. Hopefully the rain will let up by weekend and I can start moving some dirt.





and just a fyi the palm trees arent worth anything- Its really rare to be able to sell one, remove it and make a profit.

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Old 03-16-2011, 02:22 AM   #17
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So with the rain i decided to tackle an indoor project tonight- THe pstiars toilet rocked and a tile was loose. THe more I got into it the more loose tiles i found. There was only one really bad one but all the others i pulled had spots that made a pinging noise when tapped on. Question is should i just rip it all out and start over now? Ive put down new tile but never fixed old tile. Do I need to chip up the morter or just lay over whats here?

Also looks like water was getting under the tiles buy the toilet. SHould I replace the sub floor? THanks





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Old 03-16-2011, 03:09 AM   #18
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The pinging sound you heard that means that the tiles were not really bonded properly as you can see when you pop the tile off you can see the way it not really sticking very well.

Some case the subfloor can get warped it can affected as well so the only way you can fixed it right is take the rest of tiles off. I know I heard ya you may not like it but get the tile cement off and get down to bare subfloor and inspect for any damage or other items show up.

Then lay down a new subfloor or underlayment { depending on the terms you use } and use the proper mixure to stick the new tiles or the existing tiles I don't have very large degree experince with exsting tiles but make sure the tiles are very clean when you install them otherwise it will not stick right.

I am not too suprised some case the nail may come loose from the floor joinst which it kinda common from older homes.

I know one member in the fourm he is good tile guy I am sure he will steer you in correct way with the repairs and what need to be done in proper way.

Merci.
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P.S. I will PM him so he can able come over here and help ya.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:20 PM   #19
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yea im leaning toward ripping it all out. I read last night that if the grout is inconsistant its a sign they sealed it to early or didnt mix it enough. Some of the grout was really hard and some came out like powder. Its far enough where Ill just pull it all for the peace of mind. Should i pull up the sub floor or just chip away the cement?
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:17 PM   #20
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The indoor tile floor is gone, it never was really there based on how you describe your findings and what the pictures are showing. You will be money ahead to demo the whole floor and start over. It was a bad deal from the git-go. What exactly is under the tile, below the tile adhesive?

Check out the subfloor at the toilet real close. It looks as if the subfloor could be spoiled.

Now we're moving outside:
Nice digs by the way!

Okay, the deck.
Tiling on decks can be interesting but since you are going to (re-)build the deck here's what you should know.

Natural stone tiles require a structure that is twice the strength of that required for ceramic tile. The structure needs to be built with a deflection of L/720. More common is L/360 or L/480 but it isn't suitable for stone tile.

Slate will work in your climate but in all honesty you can do better if you use a porcelain tile that mimics slate. There are a lot of those out there to choose from.

I don't want to beat you over the head about asking questions of people that work for Home Depot so suffice it to say: Just don't ask their advice about anything. You'll be better off for sure.

The deck should be covered with a double layer of plywood to support the stone properly and mainly to avoid deflection between the joists. CDX is not I repeat is not a suitable underlayment for a tile installation. I would consider maybe the first layer made of CDX because of its lower cost but the second layer should be "Exposure 1-Exterior Grade Underlayment". CDX can be full of voids in the inner layers and voids cause movement. Movement will kill a tile installation pretty quick. The ply also should be waterproofed and there is more than one way to do that. We'll get to it later.

The joists should be spread not more than 16" on center and the size and span should come from your architect, remembering the L/720 deflection.

As has been mentioned Schluter Systems offers a deck drainage system used for tiling a deck.

Drainage is important even in your climate and a slight rake might also be in order.

Gotta go for now. Chew on that for a while and ask any questions you may have.

P.S.: Las Vegas pays big bucks for palm trees that size I think. As you probably know...the whole damned tree can be uprooted and moved.
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:44 PM   #21
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In for updates. Awesome New home,

I close on my 1st in two weeks.
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:21 AM   #22
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thanks for all the info. just cold call a architech or is there a formula i can plug my numbers into to figure out what kind of structure for the deck i need to build?

On the inside I came home and pulled the rest of the tiles. Ive never pulled up tile before but i assume its not supposed to come right up after you half ass cut the grout. My contractor buddy told me to just pry up the hardy backer. I tried right at the door opening and found that it appears to be glued down everywhere. He was telling me if im lucky it will be screwed or nailed down. Since its stuck so well should i leave it? I spent 2 min scraping and chipping at the tile cement and its coming up real easy. I bet i can have the whole bathroom knocked out in 45 min. Or do I need to tear it down to the wood floor to check for damage? THere is evidence of water undernieth the tile. heres some shots.








on another side note. I Was planning ahead for the gas line for the bbq and fire pit. I Was thinking about T ing off the dryer line since we have an electric dryer but Im worried about the size of the line. THAt and i would have to tear up a few walls inside the house and cut the concrete to get it to the BBQ and pit. Why not just shoot down the side yard on its own run? WIll 1 inch sufice? THe Bbq will be a 6 burner Turbo and I have no clue how you size a fire pit. The pit will be around 36 inches but i dont know what kind of demand it will have.

thanks again all. this sites awesome and it sure feels good to do this stuff yourself.


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Old 03-17-2011, 01:25 AM   #23
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crap looking at that last photo i just realized my roof gutter doesnt hit the drain?!? i guess ill add it to the list. seems like the list is getting bigger and bigger the more i get done
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:01 AM   #24
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Scott .,

I was looking at the photo I hope that was not a hardwood boards below the hardyboard if that the case you will have to rip them out anyway belive or not especally in bathroom area when you rip them up you will encounter some rotten or damaged area I know near the toilet area expect that few case you may get lucky it will be clean and dry but most case it will more likey will have to redo it anyway.

Once you get to the subfloor get a screw gun and screw them down before you put in new backer board in that way it will take care of any high or low spots you may encounter and the same time it will do stop the creak or floor movement that what can ruin the tiles.

And while you are working in the bathroom if any reason you plan to open up the wall just be aware you may have run some suprise so expect that and bring it up to the code it much easier to deal with it when the wall is open { if you going this route }

As far for gaz meter do NOT use the first tee fitting for extendison of gaz supply that first tee right out of the gaz meter leave that one alone that is Gaz company test port { it will be written in the codes }

Now for gaz pipe size IIRC 3/4 inch may handle it ok up to about 230 K btu on 7" WC { water collum } depending on how many ells you will snag it may affect it but really the safest bet is check with HVAC or Plummer contractor they will have detailed list and what type of gaz pipes you can use in your area.

As far for electrical requirment for outdoor area I will assist you on that when you get to that far but keep in your mind you will need at least 3 circuit for sure but deniftly 2 for sure without question.

So just try to list it much as you can in planning stage and myself and other will assit you on the planning.

As far for the upper deck I think it will be wise to run that by engineer to make sure it do meet your state codes requirement.

Merci.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:05 PM   #25
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its not hardwood and the hardy backer is down solid. THere is no crunchyness or loose parts. Do I still need to pull it up?


Back outside I took a long lunch and checked out Freedmans in concord. They sell appliances and whatnot. We picked out some stuff and got a Killer deal on a 48 inch DCS. It was an open box that had been damaged during delivery. Almost all the damage is on the cart which we are ditching anyway since its a built in. Theres one small dent on the top but I do paintless dent removal all the time on show cars and I'm confident I can get it out and make it look new. SO they wanted $6700 for this exact model and we ended up getting it for $1900.

THis is the 36inch version




eventually we want to add one of these heaters under the deck



This sink looks really cool but I don't know if its really practical, we are kind of leaning towards a simple round with no bells and wistles.


heres something else that was just flat out cool so i thought i would share

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Old 03-20-2011, 03:55 PM   #26
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alright- well we returned the light green granite and bought the darker stuff. We stopped by a mason yard and picked out some dry stacked veneer stone. Now I need to get serious about building out the bbq. I was sold on the cinderblock method and then a buddy had me talked into building it out of steel frame. Then another buddy came by this morning who does granite and said hes never seen a cinder block unit crack but he has seen a steel framed bbq crack. Is there a concesus? Seems to me it would be easier to construct walls and openings for access doors and other appliances with steel framing as well as buikding out the overhang for the bar top area. WHat do you guys say?
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:29 PM   #27
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Can't help with the building stuff but I think your palm trees are called Sabal Palms. We had them in our backyard when I was little in Florida. When the fronds are cut down they've got some wicked little 'spines' along the edges. We used to trim them ourselves when they were little but they grew very fast and we had to have people come in with special trucks to get high enough to trim off the dead fronds. Always hated those things! LOL At first I was thinking Queen palm based on the flared bottoms and was pretty excited for ya. Queens are gorgeous and quite expensive. Not sure about the Sabals. I know a palm that big is worth a good bit of money and they're very easy to dig up. The root ball on palm trees generally is just that - a ball. But it would cost a fortune for the big trucks to come in to move them.

Anyway, can't wait to see your finished project. Sounds like it's going to be wonderful!
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:28 PM   #28
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Steel and masonry will expand and contract at different rates. Hence: Cracks. Nuff-said?
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:22 PM   #29
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Nothing can be easy- The quick tile fix has turned into a drawn out ordeal. The tile that was in there is discontinued so we are picking something new. I found some left over travertene in the attic to match the other bathrooms but theres not enough of it and Id like to keep them for spares in case we ever need it. SInce we are changing the floor color the wife wants to change the granite on the counter top. Im not up for that right now with everything else going on in the back.

So since Im doing this bathroom and the slate in the back yard I figured it was in my best interest to buy a tile saw instead of rent one every time i need one. I found one that looks practically new. I found the same model online for $900 and hes asking $400. It can cut a 18 inch tile diagonally. Good buy or keep searching?
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:23 PM   #30
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also I see guys using the scoring method on youtube vids? SHould I look at those or stick with a saw? THanks

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