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Old 03-23-2009, 01:07 PM   #16
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


Why is it going to cost you 3k for the dricore floor? How many square feet do you have down there?
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:03 PM   #17
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


I have finished most of the electical. I had to do some rewiring because of the requirement of Arc Fault circuit breakers. My dad had helped me and we ran a power for the three way switches using 14/3, with a black carrying a load for one of the circuits and the red carrying the other load. I changed that so each 3-way circuit now has its own black, neutural and ground.

The circuit breakers were 40 dollars each, ouch. I could only find 5 dollar tamper proof outlets at homedepot, but the other day I found 1.50 tamper proof outlets.

I have noticed that I get some seep'eg during heavy rains. This only happens in some of the corners where the superiorwalls join. Its enough to wet the whole corner and sometimes a little on the floor of the inside of the wall. I am looking into what I can do to seal it. I have also made sure my gutters down spouts go away from the foundation.
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:41 PM   #18
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


Here is my 3-way switches out ready for drywall and taped for safety.

One of my boxes

Sofft with backerboards

Long view of big sofft

Tub Shower pics


Stubb out for sink

View of tub/shower plumbing and stubb out for toilet
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:30 AM   #19
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


Did the water come into the basement at the bottom of the walls? Was this due to the spring thaw/snow melting?
Also, with this wall system, i noticed you installed a lot of wood right up against concrete, did you use any vapor
barrior at all between wood/concrete between walls and floors?
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:55 PM   #20
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May want to strap/support the sink stubs. Don't use tall base in the bath or put a nail in the pipe. Use a newest taller nail plate around pipes. Put a dummy pipe in the tub and shower spouts. Those switches are not outside the bath door? I thought not. I sure you are covering all these points, just trying to help out! Be safe, GBAR
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:09 PM   #21
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Did the water come into the basement at the bottom of the walls? Was this due to the spring thaw/snow melting?
Also, with this wall system, i noticed you installed a lot of wood right up against concrete, did you use any vapor
barrior at all between wood/concrete between walls and floors?
I have taken care of the water problem by fixing my down spouts and adding splash things.

The wood that touches the concrete is treated.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:12 PM   #22
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May want to strap/support the sink stubs. Don't use tall base in the bath or put a nail in the pipe. Use a newest taller nail plate around pipes. Put a dummy pipe in the tub and shower spouts. Those switches are not outside the bath door? I thought not. I sure you are covering all these points, just trying to help out! Be safe, GBAR

Thanks for the reply.

I was thinking I need to add a strap for the sink stubs, but was wondering if I can now, as they are not aligned for that????

Could you explain more about your other suggestions?

Thanks,
Bryan
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Old 04-24-2009, 05:22 PM   #23
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


I think I am going to spring for the subfloor. I think it will help make the floor feel softer with the carpet on it.

bkeech - Are you going to put extra insulation in the walls?

Dave
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:51 PM   #24
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I think I am going to spring for the subfloor. I think it will help make the floor feel softer with the carpet on it.

bkeech - Are you going to put extra insulation in the walls?

Dave
No, and not for any really good reason. I believe it could use a little more. One reason is I am trying to get this done before June.
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:57 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by GBAR in WA View Post
May want to strap/support the sink stubs. Don't use tall base in the bath or put a nail in the pipe. Use a newest taller nail plate around pipes. Put a dummy pipe in the tub and shower spouts. Those switches are not outside the bath door? I thought not. I sure you are covering all these points, just trying to help out! Be safe, GBAR
Oh, Is the dummy pipe(s) for doing the drywall?
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:27 PM   #26
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


Your tub spout screws or pushes on to a 1/2" galv. pipe, same w. the shower. Put them in now, with caps, to charge the system and check for leaks. Easier the rock around.
Nail plates for tall base trim: Simpson, PSPNZ here:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/ca...lectrical.html

Insulation and vapor barriers: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...gs?full_view=1

The sink stubs look for a vanity, you told the plumber right, not a pedestal. Just add a support block behind w. fasteners to limit on/off water vibs.
I do not understand aligned. Use a 6' straight edge (level) to check for horiz. plane of wall studs, cut and scab ply rips to sides as straightening. Don't forget the blocking at edge of tub, T.P. holder, vertically at end of tile, or cbu., middle of closets for the pole, bath sconces (lights), towel bars, etc.

May want align the can lights by the heat supply, now's the time. Be safe, GBAR
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:06 PM   #27
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


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Most Framing, electrical done.



Why do you have the wood furring strips on the superior wall studs? Did you not want to mount the drywall directly to the galvanized stud plates?

Just curious, thanks.

Jason
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:40 AM   #28
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You might be thinking of the newer model of superiour walls. Mine are the orginals. They have the wood strips on them.
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:08 AM   #29
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You might be thinking of the newer model of superiour walls. Mine are the orginals. They have the wood strips on them.
That makes sense! I didn't realize the older versions had wooden strips rather than the steel.
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:06 PM   #30
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Basement Finish With Superiorwalls


Great information. I have a home with the 10' Xi version of the Superior Walls. I had some questions about how to get started. This thread has answer a few of my questions.

The last past to this thread mentioned the difference with the Xi walls having a metal cap on the studs versus the PT wood on the R-5. That led to some of my questions, but I guess the same technique using the cross-bracing for the partition walls would work. In my case it would mean screwing into the side of the metal cap.

With the 10' wall height, many of my mechanical systems (heat, water, A/C) all run below the floor joists. There are many areas that I will have to either add a drop ceiling or frame up and ceiling for drywall. Your pictures all show neat installation for the mechanical systems which make this part easier.

One question I still have is how you attached the drywall to the top and bottom of the walls. The top was probably attachied to the of the wall bond plate. Did you run a flat section of PT on the floor between each stud to attach the drywall? I have a slight issue there in that the contractor poured the floor slightly higher than the concrete that forms the base of the wall. Therefore the flat area between the studs if slightly lower than the slab. A 1-by piece of PT was used as a 'form' around the slab between the slab and the walls and this created the difference in height.

Tim
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