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22x22 addition, basement workshop, mater bedroom above.

74K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  gma2rjc 
#1 · (Edited)
22x22 Addition: Basement workshop, master bedroom above.

Current house is 37x20 ranch/cottage on a 6'8" basement.

Addition will be 22x22 set back 8" from front of house extending 2'8" into back yard. Basement of the addition will be 8'8" high (for the most part) with two 4" lolly columns 7' high that a 3'6" wide hallway will rest on.

Basement will be a workshop with a small corner boxed out for a music/instrument room. Main floor will be a master bedroom and bath. Main floor will be heated via radiant heat and a direct/tankless system. Basement will not be heated intill the permit is closed with a C.O.. ( :censored: gotta love taxs)

As far as laborers go, aside from the excavator and mason, it will be myself with the help of a friend or two when the time comes to do heavy/awkward lifting and then i will hire a roofer to shingle and when the time comes a taper to mud the sheet-rock.

The floor joists will be TGI's 11 7/8 12oc for the most part and 16oc where it can be. To install the joists i plan on renting one of them "plate form jack/lifts" which some people use for installing sheet-rock on ceilings. Gonna slide the joist over the front wall onto the lift, wheel it to place then set and nail (we'll see how that goes), hope to do the same for the LVL's (1-7/8x11-7/8) if not a friend will help.

The roof will be trusses, did not want any load bearing walls on the inside (wanted to leave the floor plan open to change and not have to head back to the architect if i wanted to make changes (even though she was a wonderful person, helped me out alot).) The building inspector is great (at least for me). Already made alittle change to the stairs in the addition and he has no problem with that.

Well guess its time for pictures :)
Heres a link to an online album i started so a relative from afar can see whats being done...
http://photos.joescove.com/index.php?cat=3

As of now the basement walls are poured and the excavator will be here tomorrow to fill the gravel for the slab. Will update the pictures later tomorrow night after all that is done.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Heres some more pictures...
As it stands now, the main floor has all the walls studded out (dont have pics of that yet), the only thing which still needs to be done before the sheathing is finishing off one window.

If you want to peek at all the pics, you can look here:
http://photos.joescove.com/index.php?cat=3




Rub-r-wall, drain board and vapor barrier
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=18&pos=19




Load of shell for the slabs base (they added a small rock base on top the shell and then compacted)
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=18&pos=25




Setting lolly columns for the hallway platform (you can (kind of) see the slab base).
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=0



Back basement wall, where 6' french door will be:
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=4




Working the i-joists into place:
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=2



Nice and strait :)
The "C" clamps are holding two 1-7/8 x 11-7/8's LVL's for nailing.
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=5



Will post back more as soon as more pictures are taken.

 
#5 · (Edited)
As long as i rember to take them, will post pics right up till the end.
Need to keep a photo album to show my aunt, she grew up part of her life in the house (was my grandmothers house) so sharing them here is not a big deal, specially if it can help someone else.

Main floor studded out, just a few odds and ends which needed to be done before the sheathing.

A pic from below.
The two columns are for a hallway; where the sun light is shinning through, above the wooden ladder, will be a stair case. At the end of the hall will be a landing (7-8" drop) then down 9 stairs (i think, cant rember right now) to another landing then the remaining stairs will shoot towards the back of the house (towards the camera).

I wanted the basement height to be at least 8' but that caused a problem with the current house. The current house is only 6' 10" from slab to bottom of floor. And the side door on the main floor was causing a problem also, there would be no head room even after opening up the current doors height, so thats the reason behind the columns and "blocking" on top of the 2x10s for the halls joists.

The dark line just to the right and above the far column is apiece of angle iron (theres one on the back side also) which sandwiches the 2x10s, blocking and the LVL which lays on top of all that so the LVL does not roll. I didnt feel comfterbul with an "end-cap" from keeping it from rolling.
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=13





Front of house, right window still needs the sill.
Being ive been framing this alone, i put up all three walls in two sections apiece (10'ish and 12'ish) and staggered the top and bottom plates 16". The bottom plates where longer and then i ran an extra stud up to rest the top plate on to make it easyer to set in place. The walls would have been to heavy for me to kick up and set in place if the window headers where in place while building them flat on the floor, so i just framed the king studs and then whent back and finished them off.
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=11




Side...
Originally i was gonna frame two windows but fill them 16" oc and sheath over them - so later down the line, if the next home owner wanted to add windows it would be eazy for them... well... when the ball got rolling that idea whent out the window :)
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=15



Back side:
The 45 you see at the top right was to tighten and strengthen the walls.
If you where to grab a stud on the opposite side and shake it with some force you could see the top of the wall where the 45 is, jiggle a little. Im sure when the the truss are in place it would have made it nice and solid, but i wanted to make it solid before that (let the truss do its job and hold the roof, let the wall do its job and hold the truss).

On the front side, the addition buts up to the side of the current house (addition is set back 4" from the current house face). On the back side, the addition buts up against the back side of the house (addition is set back 2'8" (zoning set backs would have whent farther but didnt want to deal with a variance)) so when the trusses are set the "gable" end which will be next to the current house will not sit directly on the corner of the wall and a small "filler" wall will have to be run on top the current roof just under the additions look-outs (gonna cut the current roofs shingles, flash for this winter and blend every thing in next summer when the current roof gets replaced) so that 45 will be hidden in a wall.
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=16




Heres the back conner where the addition ties in.
The 2x4 nailed to the face of the siding was used as a saw guide and also will temporally hold the siding on till next summer when the siding will be replaced. After ripping strait up the wall, i tucked and nailed a 2x4 behind the t&g planking (current house is all t&g, walls and roof) and then later filled in the gap with a few 2x4s which the addition ties into.
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=1



Full back side view.
http://photos.joescove.com/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=18



Did some sheathing today, but thats kind of rough for one person to do with out scuffling. Hopefully a buddy will stop by during the week and help finish it off.

Nov 4 the truss will be in, cant wait.

Will post some pics once the sheathing is done.
 
#7 · (Edited)
wow, thank you very much.
No i dont, im a machinist by trade (12 years).

This is the first time ive ever done something to this extent.
Heres just about all the history behind me which brought the confidence to give it a shot...
Being a machinest i read blue-prints all day long (house prints are different, but the learning curve was not bad) and working in a machine shop creates a mechanical sense of doing things. In the past ive put a small deck on my parents house, built alot of tree forts when i was little and liked to play with legos and lincoln logs, ripped out a grage door and framed in a swing door and window, gutted my bathroom and made a TV cabinet and DVD rack, but thats about it. When i was in my mid-to-late teens i helped a friend who was an electrician so ive been a couple houses which where being built. When i started this project i feel so lucky in that the architect was great, she was a knowledgeable sweet-heart and explained so many things, the inspector here is good, have a friend who has framed in the past who showed me little things which have helped out and this forum has help alot too.

So with all that, knowing my limits but pushing them, here we are.
So far its been a great combination of things which has brought these pictures.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Dropped the trusses off tuesday, the 4th, later that night a friend help put them up. 17 trusses in 2-1/2 hours, i pre-marked where the trusses would lay a couple days earlier...


You can also see in this picture the mini wall which will run up the current roof to tie into the back wall (explained above how the addition walls tie into the house). The wall will be 3-1/2 shorter then the truss closest to the house (kind of like a dropped gable) so the short studs can butt up to the end of the last truss and sit on top of the mini wall and hang over to create the look-outs.









Hopefully ove the weekend we will sheath the roof and later next week call around for a roofer to shingle it up. Will finish the wall sheathing and wrap the house, siding will be next year.

Also have the stairs in place and the two landings, will post pictures of that later tonight or tomarow.
 
#10 · (Edited)
:yes: current house = 740 sq
addition = 484 sq
a bit more then 1/2
It was the snow ball effect, if it was not for family issues, i would have whent for a variance and it would have been bigger.


Stairs from basement to main floor/hall (bottom two stairs are just slapped together, not sure what im gonna do with them, might "round" them or something like a spiral).








Screwed up bad with the top webbing of the stringer layout (very very hard for me, never cut or layed out stair stringers before). Not sure how i missed it, but cut the very top stair too thin and didnt catch it in-till after the bottom landing was in place and nailed. After cutting the 2x4 notch which prevents the top of the stringer from sliding down, there was only 3" of meat in the webbing. In the picture you will see i bolted two peices of metal flat stock 3/16's thick to both sides of the week spot using 3/8's bolts, two above the week spot and two below the week spot and also added a 2x6 support notched under the stringer (gonna wait for the inspector to tak a peek before i go and "finish" roughing in the stairs, the treads have a single nail into each stringer incase he wants me to re-do it.). I personally feel comterbul with the "fix", its acutely stronger how its bolted then if they where cut correctly, but well see what the inspector says.




Thats pretty much how the addition sits now.
Probably wont be for another week or so for any big changes.
 
#12 · (Edited)
A month later...

you've doubled the size of the house and it still looks good, consistent with the neighbours house.

usually when people double the size of their houses they end up looking like big new monsters in a neighbourhood of tiny little squirrels..
Never really thought about that, but your right, maybe cause it was a small house to begin with. At first i was gonna keep the siding white, but im pretty sure im gonna go with a little darker when the time comes, so it will help to make it still look "small".


-----------------------------

Its been a month now since i first started to frame and i have to say, im happy with the progress being its been a one man show for the most part.
The friend who was gonna help sheath the roof bailed out on me so i was stuck doing that alone, took a day longer. Two days in all to finish the mini wall over the current roof, nail the fasia, over hangs on both gable ends and sheath it.

This coming monday, the 17th, the shingle guys will be here and hopefully before or shortly after that i'll get the rest of the house wrapped (need to rent a scaffle ) and get the windows in.... then take a three week long nap, lol

Anyway...
Here how it sit as of now...









 
#13 · (Edited)
Just about done with the outside for this year. Theres a few tyvek seams which need to be tapped and alittle clean up then im done out there.

The shingle guys where here today, banged it out an about 3 hours.

Whent to rent some scaffolding on saturday, the local rental place does not carry it... a old friend lived near the rental place so i stopped by to say hi, another buddie gave a buzz (who does siding and has scaffolding) next thing i knew the three of us where stapling the tyvek, popping in two windows and the french door. Finished that up on sunday.

Heres the last of the out-side pictures for this year.
In the next day or so i'll snap some inside pics (just a open room and basement filled with crap) and will start working on that. First thing will be stapling up some baffling behind the soffits and then stuff some insulation in the end to try and keep the cold air out.

Anyway...
The bordered up window will stay like that in till the sheetrock is delivered, then ill toss the window in.

 
#16 ·
That house is like a total illusion.
From the out side it looks rather small but when you go inside, they have it layed out and make use of all the space it makes it big.

Right now im in the mist of framing the interior walls in the bedroom here and the place has shrunk so much, lol (still love it and having fun).

Will post some pics in a week or so once all the walls are up and the pex "panels" are screwed down.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Some inside work i did over thanksgiving.
Over the last few days did some more work, will post pictures of that soon.


The wooden door is the entrance which leads to a small hall that runs next to the black on the house and then down to a stair-well to the basement. If you walk strait through the door you will head up three steps into the bedroom.





Back of the bathroom and small closet.
The front wall is not up yet, nor is the dividing wall/pocket-door that splits the small walk-in closet and bathroom. Main closet door is missing too.
The cabinets will be built into the walls (above the stairs). For the closet side i might toss up a cloths hander or something if not some kind of cabinet... who knows.





Front bathroom and small closet walls are up along with pocket doors.



Looking down the bathroom at the dividing door to the small closet.
Double sinks will go on the right.



That is the back side of the bathroom door slid open. Bathroom main entrance will be to the far right.
The two framed out walls closest to the camera is where urinal will go.




Where the shower will go along with the wall cut-out for alittle seat and shelves along with a shower head.








The "main" entrance to the bathroom.





The rest are of the basement and complete mess at the time.






Thats it for now...


_
 
#18 ·
Great thread!
Since you were good enough to drop in on mine, I figured I had better return the favor.
Pretty cool project. And coming along very nicely I would say.
What did the inspector have to say about the metal brackets you used to hang the stringers with?
 
#19 ·
Thanks cocobolo.

What did the inspector have to say about the metal brackets you used to hang the stringers with?
The hangers for the floor joists are "over the top" hangers.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/jb-lb-b-ba-hhb.asp


The ones you see on the main (upper) floor for the trusses are not hangers, but hurricane straps (not sure which ones you are asking about).

He didn't have a problem with them and was happy i used the "over the top" hanger rather then the "face mount" ones.

I did screw up when i did the floor joist hanger and did not use and glue :no: when seating the joist which is not a code violation, but he shook his head and said i should have known better or called him... hindsight always kicks ya in the butt :)

Funny you bring this up, some time this week im gonna call him for the framing inspection. Hes been really good about things. When i started the project i told him my back round and that ive never done anything like this before. Through the whole process he said just give him a buzz if i was confused or wanted to have him stop by. Just after the shell was up and the day i started to call around for shingler's i asked him to stop by and make sure the trusses where right and i didnt goof on any of the roof sheathing (not brain science, but we all can make dumb mistakes) and he popped between someone else's scheduled inspection... hes been really good so far.

Anyway, thanks for the comments.

_
 
#21 ·
:innocent: you did use the word stringer and it when in one eye and out the other, sorry.
He had no problem with them and then called me un-conventional for the way i "fixed" them, lol.
Tossed a jack stud under the two stringers on each end just for alittle extra.
 
#22 ·
Yes, the jack stud would be a good idea. What we usually do in a case like that is to use a steel strap about 1 1/4" wide and about maybe a foot long.
Nail it under the top of the end of the stringer and wrap it up and against the joist or beam - or whatever your framing is there - and that's it.
It may sound flimsy, but it works well and is easy to put in. Takes about 1 minute. Cheap too.
Your place looks like it is coming along really well!
 
#23 ·
Hello all...
Took a few months off (dec, jan, feb and most of march) and been slowly getting back into the swing of things.

Passed the framing and plumbing inspections (plumbing was fun... did a water test and took a bath as well :jester: (when the inspector says... "ok, were done - good job, but i want to watch you take the air-test-ball out" while he is stepping back - look out !)), have the electric about 80% done along with about 70-80% of the siding.

For the siding i ripped off the old aluminum side from the main part of the house, put up furring strips along with 3/4 rigid-sheet insulation on the main part of the house. Used furring strips because i didnt want to deal with removing the asbestos siding on the main house. Did some reading and seen this idea, people said the furring strips would help the asbestos to be held in place while nailing up the new vinyl (furring strips where nailed to the studs).


Heres some plumbing pics and siding:


Tankless heater for masterbath:
The white tag you see hangin off the hot line out of the heater is a note letting the next home ower know that there is a hot second hot water line run incase anything happens with the tankless heater they can just open and close acouple of valves and there will still be hot water to the bath above while the tankless unit is being worked on.




On the other side of the door is the old basment where the gas and water lines come from.



Old side where the lines pop through.




Toilet drain...
Ran into a jam with drilling the hole for the vent... ran out of room (poor planing) and drilling a 3-1/5 hole would have cut into the flange of the TGI joist, the inspector let a 2" vent fly.




Shower drain, trap and vent.



2x1-1/2x2 why that drops into the 3" line.
2" is for the shower and the 1-1/2 is for the sink which runs down the same bay.




3" line that run the peramitor.
The run on the right wall comes from the toilet anf then the shower and sink drop in. Even with the 8' 10" ceiling i was trying to keep every i could in the bays.




End of the run where it breaks though the old block wall at a 45 to a second 45 and then a sweeping 90 to the main houses drainage.






forum image/post limit... will continue in next post.


_
 
#24 ·
Stripping the old aluminum sidding... The flashing you see is covering the holes which where drilled acouple summers ago to get blowned insulation in.








First corner for the new siding. To the right of the door you can see the furring strips and 3/4 insulation




Insulation and furring strips.




New siding...




Alittle much brown... but hey :)


Need to hold off for a bit to finish the top, gonna hire out to have the old roofs shingles ripped off and have soffits installed.



Thats where things stand for now.
On the fornt of the house theres a picture window which will be replaced hopefully at the begining of next month (have a jeld-wen coming in the 30th of this month) and im holding off for putting in the last window of the addition intill they drop off the sheet rock, maybe the end of next month, so the font siding will sit as is intill then.


_
 
#26 ·
Thanks gma2rjc.
The nabors say the same about the color.
It was one of them things... white again ??? no, light tan or light yellow to match half the other houses around here, no... hummm... brown, sure that looks good :)

Im so bad with picking colors, guess this time it worked out.

_
 
#27 ·
If and when the day comes to replace the 2 :)()styles of siding on our house, we'll probably go with white. That's mostly because of my track record with picking colors.

In '99 we had to have new shingles put on the roof. The roofer brought samples of colors to choose from. We should have looked at the samples outside in natural daylight.

I picked out a light brown or tan color. The shingles they put up look like a light orange color. :thumbdown: It could have been their mistake too, I don't know.
 
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