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Old 10-28-2012, 07:11 PM   #136
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2012 - Basement demo


Framed in the other window... Now I need to figure out how I will be framing the box in...
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:23 PM   #137
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Wow!

Looks like a big project! I applaud you! What are you trying to do/ what is the goal of your project?
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:27 PM   #138
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ummm, can you do a paint drawup of what you mean? I can't really visualize it. I would try to make just one wall instead of two as it looks in your pictures. Just put 2x6s on each side of the metal support pole and dry wall around that, then one 2x4 wall down it length wise...if that makes sense.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:03 AM   #139
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Jess_718 -- I'm just trying to finish my basement properly. I had painted paneling, no insulation and a poor vapor barrier.

rebelranger -- I think we are talking about the same thing. The 2x4 highlighted in red, moved to the right, where I have that red rectangle. This would make it flush with the baseplate I have the arrow pointing to.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:31 AM   #140
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Nice work man, I'm currently doing the same thing. Look forward to more pics.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #141
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Yes we agree on that. However I am talking about the two walls with the dead space you are going to have. Unless you are doing that for sound reasons, I think you can get rid of one of the 2x4 walls you have that are on both sides of your metal beam
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:38 AM   #142
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What you see in that picture will be a half wall with a window sized opening. I will put in a granite ledge, etc.

FYI, I posted in the Electric forum... May want to check out the pics.

Check your aluminum connections...
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:44 PM   #143
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[quote=Trucon01;921199]I've learned so much doing it on my own, watching video tuts and listening to the guys on here. For the pros to take the time and give free advise means a lot to me and I know means a lot to everyone on here.quote]

I agree wholeheartedly with this statement. I've been rewiring my entire 2 story farmhous, barns and detached garage. The home was originally built in 1921 with additions added in '53 and '61. The things I've uncovered are truly frightening but with help from this forum I've been getting it done. I also have each section of work checked by a retired master electrician neighbor who I do odd jobs for as repayment for his advice and expertise.
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:35 PM   #144
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Another weekend in the basement with my dad. We finished framing the entire room. We came off the wall below the beam about 12" so I could round the corners of opening and have a semi arch way / eyelid.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:55 PM   #145
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Making progress. What are your plans for the floor? Are you going to seal it then carpet? Do you have utility room? Are you going to try and sound deaden that room? How about your basement ceiling, going drywall or drop ceiling? What are you going to do for Heating/Cooling/Humidity?

I've already started my basement but I got side tracked to renovate the kitchen. So the basement has been in the back of my mind for quite some time.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:06 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelranger View Post
Making progress. What are your plans for the floor? Are you going to seal it then carpet? Do you have utility room? Are you going to try and sound deaden that room? How about your basement ceiling, going drywall or drop ceiling? What are you going to do for Heating/Cooling/Humidity?
Now that the water issues have been resolved, I was thinking about going with carpet. I wasn't aware I needed to seal the floor before carpet. What should I seal it with?

Sound deaden, probably not. There won't be much going on, just a TV, couches, etc.

Ceiling will be drywall with 6 pot lights. I'm working with 7.5 ft so dropping it any lower won't be good.

Yes, I have a utility room. That will be framed with 2 doors.

As far as heating/cooling/humidity. I had a whole new line set run, all new lines run in the basement for AC and heat and sealed all HVAC runs / vent with mastic and alum tape.

Humidity gets to be around 50%. I'll also have a dehumidifier running when this is all finished.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:43 PM   #147
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Great response. Please keep in mind I'm not a professional and I'm cheap so what I do may not be the best for YOU.
- I am sealing my concrete for with Radon Seal. It stops any moisture that may pop up and prevents any ground radon. I think plan to use the cheapest dark color free floating floor with a vapor/quiet floor underlay. Carpet just holds to must moisture and promotes mold for me, although it is the best for sound deadening.

- Sound deadening I am going to Roxul and denim insulation. Denim on the ceiling directly under the floor then roxul over that. It is going to cost a little more, but to help stop noise traveling up and down it will be worth it to me. In particular my utility room ceiling will get foam insulation, then denim, then roxul. The walls will get just roxul, then drywall green glue then another sheet of drywall. I don't want any furnace or water heater gases to escape into the basement or rooms above and surely don't want to hear the washer/dryer in the basement or rooms above while watching TV.

- Ceiling I really REALLY want drywall but because of water lines, gas lines, HVAC, and electrical I can't risk haven't to pull drywall and replacing if I want to make a change or improvement. Thus I'm going with a drop ceiling and attaching it to the floor joists overhead. They make special drop ceiling systems just for this but my buddy and I used the normal Lowes stuff and did the exact same thing. The bad part is you have very little room to get the tiles into their correct space so it is time consuming but do able. Furthermore, you don't have to mud and tape it so the time saved there really offsets the time spent to install.
- Lights I'll use pot lights too.

- Utility room using 2 doors is a great idea. Just make sure to seal it up, use weatherstripping on the door cast/jams and a floor sweep against the floor. If you want to go further they have kits that completely seal all the corners = excessive unless noise and gases are a major issue.

- HVAC - for heat I'm using mad heat pads that install under carpet/hardwood floor. Then will make a slave zoned HVAC system. Thus only when another zone calls will the basement get AC or furnace supplied cooling/heating. For Humidity I'm going to run a small de-humidifier ducted into the basement HVAC ducts, thus only the basement gets the supplemental de-humidifier system.

Maybe I gave you some cheap, decent ideas. Everything I buy is from HD/Lowes/Menards/Craigslist unless I found a super deal online (as with the floor heating kits I got 100sqft ones for $70 a piece whereas in store they are around $140.)
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:03 AM   #148
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Thanks for taking the time to write all of that.

I used RadonSeal on all of my walls and then used Drylok Extreme about 10 days later (thats why my walls are white). I def. noticed a drop in moisture when using both of these products. The dehumidifier was taking a lot longer to fill up then it did before.

I'm not worried about the ceiling being drywall. I'm making all the improvements before I do it. New HVAC runs, new line set, I will be re-doing all copper water lines with PEX, running and stapling all new elec lines, etc.

Now for a question...

Does anyone have any pointers how to build rounded corners for the entry ways? I've seen pre-made, half circle pieces of wood you nail in place, but is there a better way or is this the easiest?
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:00 PM   #149
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Windows that were ordered came in. Special thanks to Windows on Washington (Eric) for ordering these windows!! If anyone is in the DC metro area, I highly recommend him and his team!

Now comes the part I don't understand...

How is the best way to finish this off on the inside? I have a 1x4 PVC board frame that each window sits in. In the 4th picture down, you notice I am measuring from the bottom of the frame to the top of the bottom vinyl face (3/4 in frame -- 2 1/4 bottom window face == totaling about 3 in)

My question is how do I fir out the opening so I can either put in drywall or painted plywood? How high up on the window facing can/should I go?

Kinda lost at this point...
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:24 AM   #150
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Not to question your judgment but I'm at a loss for why you framed around your windows the way you did. Concerning finishing around the windows here is what I'm doing. See the vinyl trim around the window itself, drywall/trim to that point, then use chalk to seal between the drywall/trim. I hope that makes sense. Essentially the drywall/trim will touch the vinyl window frame, but not interfere with its operation. I'm going to use wood trim so I don't have to deal with as many drywall corners, especially in areas that are going to promote people to put stuff in them. I'm going to use 1x6 pieces that touch the vinyl frame and will cut flush to drywall, then will use trim pieces to cover the meeting of wood and drywall. Like this for the 1x6s http://www.luxuryhousingtrends.com/window-trim.jpg
Like this overall http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-pdobPNNKK.../LR+window.JPG
However I may try this http://www.howtospecialist.com/wp-co...window9065.jpg

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