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Old 03-27-2013, 12:11 AM   #76
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2-Story Addition...Trials and Tribulations


Wow, lot of progress! I read you will have framing inspection soon, here is a guide written by one of our moderators, very informative; eg. over your fire place chase- Post #5; How to fireblock framing This should help you, I hope!

Gary

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Old 03-27-2013, 10:46 AM   #77
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2-Story Addition...Trials and Tribulations


Gary....THANK YOU for the link....good information...still reading it....

FYI....while not obvious...I do have some fire blocking on that fireplace...what you can't see is the sheet of 5/8" Type X drywall that is attached to the underside of the top frame....the idea being that if the fire started there....I'm stopping it there....but as I read the link you gave me....I might need to do more. Without a doubt, I will be going back and looking at everything in the house....

It's one thing to meet code....it's a whole different matter of protecting my family....I prefer to prevent the fire in the first place....but as we all know, sh!t happens....so nothing wrong with going the extra step.

Once again...thank you for that link....
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:36 PM   #78
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2-Story Addition...Trials and Tribulations


Just another quick update.....Gary....here is a pic of the drywall between the fireplace and exhaust chase.......and yes...there is 1" between the pipe and wood.



Gary....I read your PM.....is this the area your talking about?



If you look closely, you can tell where I cut it lower in order to get the hanger down low....but when I did that....non of the holes for the hanger would hit the support member....
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:24 PM   #79
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2-Story Addition...Trials and Tribulations


That's the spot. Wood will split at the hanger. A good inspector will want a hanger/support under the stringers at the bottom. Anywhere else could compromise the depth of stringer material that is left after riser/tread notches are cut out. Code requires 5" of throat left; fig. 28; http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf Sloped hanger, fig. 31.

Think of the wood similar to a rafter, except there is a lot less bearing pressure as you are at the top, not bottom on a wall, pp. 38; http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...joists&f=false

Just add a 2x after plumb-cutting the bottom unused hanger slice, after adding a header, lower. ; pp.2 center bottom figure; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja

Those appear to be temporary treads ? as they are not back-nailed/glued through the risers at 6"oc... and face grain is running wrong for max. strength (though the 12.33" stringer centers help, lol.). Looking good!

Gary
PS. Add a short wall under stringer span, if needed, I would, and remember to insulate them for noise, same w. bathroom interior walls.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:31 PM   #80
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Gary....once again....thanks for the input.....

The inspector has looked at those stairs several times...no comments........a few things of note.....those are 2x14 stringers 12" OC....the throat is 7"....the stringers on the outsides are hard nailed to studs...pretty much all the way along the length of the stringer....hence, the attachment at the top is pretty much moot....

On my treads...those are 1 1/8" plywood....I have not nailed and glued those yet....I was going to do that when I'm about read to put the 1" oak treads on top.
Considering how tough that T&G is....I don't think it matters which way I run it....though I agree....the grain should have been the other way.

Funny.....at the time I looked right....but now that it's pointed out....yea....I get it....
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:11 AM   #81
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Another update.....my inspector is on vacation....and I'm basically ready for the observation report and resulting framing inspection....so....in the mean time....it's a good time to do some the 'finer' details....

The space under the stairs is 'data central'. This is where my cable comes in to the cable modem and resulting Ethernet. I felt we had a signal issue due to splitters....my cable goes to my garage....through a 2-way splitter....3db drop.....then into 'data central'....3-way splitter....the 'good' port is another 3db drop...but the other 2 going to tv's is 7db each. In English....that means that my original signal is about 1/16 th the power by the time it reaches the tv's...and that's assuming I'm using good coax and have good connections.



This is where all of my Ethernet and coax comes in...



With the addition...we also plan on more tv's...which means more splitters....so common sense says that I need an amplifier....so I got an 8 port unit.....$50 from Amazon....



Our channel 7 ABC was marginal....lots of pixelisation along with delayed/out of sequence audio. With the amp....perfect.

My initial plan for the electronics was to put everything into cubbies under the stairs.....but after a few hours of sitting there having a beer or two (or three) looking at it....all of the stuff is ending up on back wall where the TV will be.

It's all hooked up and running....except for figuring out how I want to route the wiring.....It's pretty much done.....just have a couple more Ethernets and RG6 to run and this part will be done....

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Old 04-07-2013, 09:56 PM   #82
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2-Story Addition...Trials and Tribulations


When using cable splinters the rule of thumb is less is more. Also you can't use an amp on a cable modem. Make sure you have a direct line here, a 2/1 splitter that feeds cable modem and then 8 way amp for cable boxes. While you're at it don't forget to run extra rg6 cables for telephone. Also run an extra cable line to your tv. It might not be used now but in the future you might want a cable for satellite and a cable for free to air antenna. Easier to run wires now than later!
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:04 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonki View Post
When using cable splinters the rule of thumb is less is more. Also you can't use an amp on a cable modem. Make sure you have a direct line here, a 2/1 splitter that feeds cable modem and then 8 way amp for cable boxes. While you're at it don't forget to run extra rg6 cables for telephone. Also run an extra cable line to your tv. It might not be used now but in the future you might want a cable for satellite and a cable for free to air antenna. Easier to run wires now than later!
This amp is the exception....it amplifies both directions....my cable modem works just fine...and it also includes an unpowered port that I can use for the cable modem.

Yea.....I'm running extra cable...as well as Cat6. RG6 and CAT6 are pretty cheap compared to cutting open a wall.
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:22 AM   #84
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I passed the structural observation by the architect....so I now have the observation report....next Monday I should be able to have the inspector out for the framing inspection....if I pass that (which I should).....then it's insulation...drywall...stucco....

I just might have a house in another month or so....I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.....(as long as it's not the oncoming train)
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:23 AM   #85
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Some amps say they're rated bidirectional for cable modems which is true for low speed cable modem. But if you want DOCSIS 3 / 45+ Mbps use the I amped port and you'll be set. Also get a label maker and put labels on all those cables. Gives it that pro look. Did you consider running wire for home alarm?
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:26 PM   #86
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Update....major milestone reached.....

Framing inspection passed......it means I can insulate, drywall and wrap.......so far, that light at the end of the tunnel does not look like an on coming train....

Translation.....The kids just might be in their own rooms by July.....and we have more than one bathroom (toilet)
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:29 AM   #87
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Gratz on the inspection

On to the fun stuff
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:23 PM   #88
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Congrats! Now get to it so we can see some pics!
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #89
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Thanks Pete.....I had the place insulated on Wed.....inspected on Thursday.....now it's time to drywall.....

I'll post up some pics of the insulation tonight.....it's too nice today to not be working on it.....
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:15 PM   #90
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Ok....as promised....pics of the insulation.....

I paid $1300 for a company to come in and do it.....they were done in one day and I didn't get all all itchy from the insulation....this is one of those tasks where writing a check is some of the best spent money....



My plans require that the joists between the 1st and 2nd floors be insulated.....



Stairwell...........



And the upstairs master bedroom...





Master Bath





Besides the fact that the company cleaned up when done...they even sealed any small spaces.....attention to detail..



The company was licensed....and came recommended.....something to be said for knowing people.

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