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Old 01-23-2012, 12:00 PM   #331
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1958 Ranch Home, Full of Character - First Home, First Major Project


Sounds like a plan!

One last tip... don't shortcut laying out the tile. Snap each line if you can, unless you're using very white grout. It'll save a ton of time when laying.

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Old 01-23-2012, 05:16 PM   #332
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1958 Ranch Home, Full of Character - First Home, First Major Project


Do I need the chalk lines? Because I was told you don't really need it.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:27 PM   #333
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You don't really need them, no. But they do help a whole lot. I only used two chalk lines and my pattern ended up kinda parenthesis shaped (1/4" over 4' I think). Can't tell visually, but I know it's there.

Do you really need a table saw? No, but a circular saw with a clamp-on guide gets teditors in a hurry. Heaven forbid a hand saw...
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:29 PM   #334
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1958 Ranch Home, Full of Character - First Home, First Major Project


I got spacers, doesn't that help? I bought 1/2" but was told bigger the grout lines the more water they trap, and since it's the laundry room go 1/4" or smaller. That came from an old man who lays tile, so I took his advice, lol.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #335
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That's good advice. I went 1/8". Like the look, but wish I'd gone 1/4" so my 12's line up with the 6'a.

Assuming tile is square is folly unless you paid out the butt for rectified tiles. You can't trust their squareness.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:36 PM   #336
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You don't need a wet saw?
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:45 PM   #337
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You certainly do, unless you're using a very thin tile and using a tile cutter that scores instead of saws.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:51 PM   #338
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Okay, yeah I'm going to borrow my buddies wet saw. 13x13 tile.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:57 PM   #339
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What a long two days. Where to start... yesterday I finally got a day off. Much needed. Got in touch with a guy an hour and a half away with some things I was interested in. Got almost there, he emailed me his address, and it was an extra hour farther. Ugh, ok, fine. I've been keeping an eye out for a deal on a 3hp+ router to spin some massive bits, and I just couldn't pass up this guy's deal.



Rockler table top, leg set, wheel set and fence. Hitachi 3 hp router (M12V). Woodpecker's lift. Custom wings, shelf, back, bottom and drawers. Wired with independent switches for shop vac and router.



Came with plenty of extras too. 11 rings, pin, tons, and two cranks for the Woodpecker. Custom bent wrench. Three feather boards, plus extra hardware to make a few more. Base plate, handles and hardware for the Hitachi. Six auxiliary fences. Several push blocks. Several setup blocks for the same rail/stile bits I have.

Tried to talk him down to $300, but we ended up at $400. Easily $800 worth of stuff here.

Left to go check it out just before noon and didn't get home until 7ish.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:00 PM   #340
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As luck would have it, the router bits arrived at the same time as I picked up the router. They arrived in a mish-mash of containers... three wood, one aluminum, two different brands and logos, one unbranded, and two separately in wax.



They're larger than I expected they'd look in real life, but dead on the dimensions they said they'd be. Well, most of them. Some claim an overall length or carbide height that isn't quite right.



Had to wait until this morning to play with them.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:05 PM   #341
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First up, the glue line bit. This suck weighs over 2x what the next largest bit I own is. " shaft bits just don't compare to these " shaft bits. The " bits flex when you apply enough pressure and I'm afraid they're more prone to catastrophic failure.



This was my third attempt. The first two were rejected only because they didn't line up within 1/128". This is where the Woodpecker shined... I was able to adjust the height, from above, in a fraction of the time it would have taken me with the old Craftsman routers, and with much greater precision. It's fairly easy to adjust within 1/64th of 1/32".

Mechanically, a very strong joint. I just wish it had a bearing... if you don't get the fence depth perfect, you'll end up with a potentially unsafe situation and a very uneven joint. A bearing would alleviate this.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:08 PM   #342
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Next up, the mitered frame bit. At 2" for just the carbide, it's a pretty tall (and heavy) bit. A 1/4" x 3/8" slot bit is shown for comparison. Note the (almost) zero tolerance cut-out that I made in the fences. The first one for the glue line was so bad, I don't care to show it, but this one was made with ease.



And here we are after three or four passes.



I quartered the length of the board to make a frame for a box lid or door, and mitered the wrong direction. D'oh! Into the scrap heap they went.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:17 PM   #343
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Next was the reversible crown molding bit. Again, this one's about 2" of carbide alone. Again close to a full pound of steel moving at about 18,000 rpm.



I was making the second pass when the router made some funky noises. I turned off the machine as soon as I was clear of the bit and noticed something wasn't quite right. Here I've already unplugged, moved the fence out of the way and removed the ring.



The first pass went flawlessly. But some time during the second pass, the bit dropped about 3/8". Here, you can see it more pronounced at the end of the cut. A second v-bead appears.



At first I though the router cooked itself. Nope, still works. Then I thought the lift must have dropped because I could have left it unlocked. Nope, still locked and very close to all the way up. The bit was definitely lower, but I know it could have dropped in the collet, because I had it only ~1/32" from bottoming out. WTF?

The plunge lock had come loose on the Hitachi and stopped holding the bit all the way up. The vibration, the springs and gravity all kicked in. Thankfully I was using several feather boards and a push stick. I locked it back into place, checked the lift and we were off again.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:21 PM   #344
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I went to start on a second piece for the crown bit and the router wouldn't start. I think some sawdust worked its way down into the body and is messing up the switch. I ended up discovering quite by accident that I could the switch "on" firmly and it would run like a champ. Duct tape to the rescue.



Here we are after 3-4 passes of ~1/8", flipping to cut each twice. You see a little snipe here because I set the fence back about 1/64" too far back, which allowed the bit to eat away my reference surface.



Looks good on the bookcase. The center piece is a spacer between the carcasses and the two outer pieces are for reference to make sure I had enough space for the moulding under each shelf. I can clearly fit 3/4" thickness moulding on each side with this 4" stile pattern. I think it'll look awesome in cherry.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:27 PM   #345
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Precision Bits sent me the wrong picture frame bit, and I sent an email to that effect, but I didn't get a firm response back on it today. I'm getting antsy to have some frames on the walls (not a single one yet, and we've been in this house since July), so I went ahead and worked with this one. The difference is minor, so I hope the customer (i.e., the wifey) doesn't get upset. Here's a stick from 1"-wide 4/4 red oak.



You'll notice the bottom-left corner is two different thicknesses because the stick ran away with me at the end due to trying to skip using a second feather board. Lesson learned. At this width, we come just short of hitting the bearing, so I'll probably made the finished product 2", which will add to the innermost border.



I didn't rabbet this one, because I haven't decided on a rabbet size set. The inside is miniscule at just shy of 2"x2", so I probably won't bother gluing it. Hope this profile looks good on padda-whack.

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