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Old 01-02-2012, 09:31 AM   #271
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1958 Ranch Home, Full of Character - First Home, First Major Project


More progress again yesterday, though not what I'd originally hoped for. I had wanted to get most (or all) of the missing trim pieces cut, nailed, spackled and then paint everything. That certainly didn't happen.

I spackled for a few hours with what was left of my dying sanding blocks (both 150 grit, I believe), but I gave up and threw. They both were missing huge chunks on each sharp edge, and that's the edge I use 90% of the time when trying to work the corner of all of the nail holes I "hid" in the groove of the trim. What a joke... I should have just nailed on the flat, because they're a lot easier and quicker to patch.

I quickly got distracted and tried to sand the living room window sill to be a little less "goopy" from countless thick layers of paint. That didn't work... the sander just tore chunks out, and I was forced to go down nearly to bare wood. It still looks like garbage, so I think that I will indeed go all the way down. I'll have to re-caulk the sill, but I should already have a tube of silicone opened anyway for the moulding.

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Old 01-02-2012, 09:44 AM   #272
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Then, of course, I got distracted again. I ended up installing somewhere in the range of 8 or 9 of the box extenders, with some customization to about half of the extenders, and some cutting back of bead board with a razor knife in about half as well. I also prepped the bookcase electrical boxes... removed the devices, capped the wires, vacuumed them out, etc.

But this baby was the highlight of my day. When paneling, I had a d'oh! moment and paneled right over a receptacle. NEC 2008 wouldn't let me get away with that, and it could pose a threat, so I had to go find it. The wife knew where it was within a foot either way, so I story poled the other two outlets in the room, then checked about 2" to either side of the stud I knew it must be nailed to. Sure enough, the non-contact voltage tester lit up this time, even with the newly added paint. It's weird that it wouldn't show any juice through the paneling before, without the paint, even on the 5 mA setting. I marked, drilled with the smallest bit I had, and struck the hot-side screw.

Here's what I saw after about 5 minutes of drilling progressively larger holes (and eating most of the face of the device off while doing it).



It all worked out, though the device came out in pieces. The $3 I spent replacing it was well worth my sanity. Here we are completely, just before the face plate went back on.



Made a run to Big Blue to pick up some materials, then made dinner. Afterwards, I raised the TV 7".



I might go a little higher. Don't know yet. But it certainly looks better not covering all that paneling. And for some reason, the TV looks bigger when it's slightly above eye level. That's a pretty nice optical illusion.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:24 AM   #273
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1958 Ranch Home, Full of Character - First Home, First Major Project


Determined today that the LED flex strips are approximately 8mm wide, 2mm thick at the LED, and have a 120 emission. Here's an overhead shot of the approximated light pattern possibilities.



Bottom is mounted directly to the backside of the stiles. Center is mounted at 45 on a 1/4" x 1/4" chamfer. Top is mounted at 60 on a 9/32" x 5/32" chamfer (?). Certainly the top is the best pattern, theoretically. Will do some testing when it arrives. Can't find anything premade that I'd want to use, so it looks like I might be turning some scrap solid oak into these pieces. Wish my luck.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:36 AM   #274
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Also looking to buy a ton of picture frame molding. We don't have a single frame hung because the few (cheap ones) we had didn't survive the move! Looking to make my own, so I think I'll just need a dozen corner clamps (Harbor Freight or Grainger, perhaps) and some suitable material. Here's what I've got my eye on so far. I had to request a price list, so I won't mention the wholesaler's name out of courtesy. Note, these prices are for small quantities. I may be able to get a discount if I buy a "box" (100 to 400 ln ft) of any style.

$1.75/ft

$?/ft

$1.97/ft

$3.52/ft

$1.18/ft

$0.86/ft

Going to call to see if I can get a sample or two tomorrow. Also stopping by the base frame shop to see if they have any good connections. Prices are w/o shipping.
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:50 PM   #275
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Eons ago when I was a teenager I worked in a frame shop for a few years. If you're going to do a lot of frames you probably want to get a decent frame vise. Using something from Harbor freight is a recipe for disaster in my opinion as they are not designed to grip frames with rabbets and unusual profiles.

Also, make sure you buy a frame that is wood throughout. Those frames you're looking at actually have a thin coat of plaster on them and are then painted. In a frame shop you cut that sort of frame to just largerof your intended dimension with a shop saw and then you cut it down to final size with a special bench tool that cuts with a sharp blade at 45 degrees which removes the unavoidable chipped end from the chop saw.

Lastly, get a tin of framer's putty that matches your frame color. It's indispensible for filling nail holes and flaws.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:28 PM   #276
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Well, I got the wholesaler on the phone. His prices are certainly amazing, but he hs to ship each box by Freight... and that starts at $150 for 1 box. 2 boxes is the same shipping rate. And he said that the whole box price is about half of what I posted here (175ft/bx for the top one), so it's pretty close to a wash.

I'm sure sure I understand what you mean by plaster on the wood. Can you clarify? I can't see the pictures... at work, on my lunch break, and they're filtered.

Every other wholesaler I've found so far that has what I want won't sell to the public. The base frame shop wants $4.75/ft for the first molding I showed (WTF?!) and $15.20 for 11x14 UV glass (!??!).

I've worked with the first and fourth profiles before when I managed a photography studio, but we got all of our frames in pre-assembled in 11x14, 12x16, 12x24, 14x24, etc.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:12 PM   #277
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Worked the last two days. Spent today checking out a few lumber yards an hour away. And I'm pretty impressed.

The larger one was nearly out of straight-lined 8' 4/4 red oak, with only a few pieces (with boot prints on them). At $3.20/bf. But they did have a good selection of most everything else, at good prices.

The smaller place had teenagers working. Rude ones that talked **** about other customers while I was still shopping. I'm sure talked about me too once I left. But at $2.88/bf, I feel like I got some good stuff. Got a 4/4 3"x8' piece of Jatoba with rather distinct grain for the carpenter to play with and a 5"x9' piece of Padauk for me to play with for picture frame molding. Still trying to figure out a good profile setup using less expensive Chinese bits from eBay/Amazon...




Even at almost $8/bf for 4/4, it still comes out cheaper to make quality stuff from an imported African wood (Padauk) than to order box quantities (175ft/bx) of ****ty moulding (basswood and filler) from across the country (Georgia) at a great discount ($1.75/ft) versus the base frame shop ($4.80/ft) and have it shipped across the country ($150+). And that includes my tools cost...

I wanted the 12" x 8' piece, but they said it was reserved for an instrument maker two hours away. Ugh. I made them bust open a unit for this piece... passed up a lot of wavy grain for this beauty!
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:21 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
I'm sure sure I understand what you mean by plaster on the wood. Can you clarify? I can't see the pictures... at work, on my lunch break, and they're filtered.
The second image you posted is probably the clearest example. They cut the profile out of some cheap hardwood and then coat it with a thin layer of what, back in the day, seemed like plaster which would then take the finish on top of it. Your selections have several finishes...black, brown, etc...and then they have the detail, which is not cut in the wood but is moulded into the plaster that is applied. I'm not sure it is actually plaster, but it behaved like it. Cut it with a saw and it would chip pretty reliably. Ergo the pedal-operated shaving machine. Perhaps things are different these days but I suspect that going at those with a chop saw would be problematic. Ah here, found a picture. It's call a moulding guillotine. Appears to have broader use in furniture making:



I like your idea of making your own frames from hardwood. Much more interesting and fun.

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Old 01-05-2012, 09:21 AM   #279
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Got the LED flex strips in yesterday (and another dozen binders, but that's another story...). Had to give them a test, of course. They're dead on 5/16" wide by 1/8" thick. I haven't taken them all the way off the reel to confirm that they're really 16'4" (5 meters).

The dimmer says that it'll dim down to 0%, but the lights blink out around 10%. That's not too terribly bad, as they're really dim at 10% if you're not looking directly into each "bulb" so to speak.


Lights On, 100% power



Lights Off, 100% power
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:35 AM   #280
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When I tried to tilt them to what I estimated was 30, 60 and 90, the "bulbs" became very obvious when standing near the shelf. I couldn't see anything from the seating. This presents a problem because I wanted the lighting to appear source-less, so to speak, as it was emanating.Seeing the bright "bulbs" ruins the illusion and cheapens it a bit, especially if you see them every time you walk up to look at a curio or read the book spines.

Deciding whether I want to go with mounting them directly to the backs of the stiles (can't see the "bulbs" unless you put your head *into* the bookshelf), or whether I want to try to design a 30/60 chamfer and a 45 chamfer and test installing a lip onto the back side of the stiles. I could make it decorative, like a rope molding, if I really wanted to, but... it might create more work for the same result in the end. We'll see.

Either way, it's looking like I'm going to have to upsize the face frame to 3" minimum. 4" could look good if properly routed. Starting tooling up for the picture frame project a little early in case the router bit profiles I buy for that project come in handy on this face frame.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:50 PM   #281
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Part of the reason why I've been taking a break is because I've been recently disenfranchised. I tried to make six 26" pieces of the solid stock span the fronts of four 38" shelves. I tried to fix the fact that I didn't have 38" long stock by cutting two of the 26" pieces into quarters, after which I planned to put one quarter (6") on each side of the 26" piece. That would make the center seams line up vertically with the apothecary drawers and make the splice look intentional, right? I hand-matched the grain and profile of each joint by hand, marking each pair with a set number, and then biscuited with five #10s and glued up, except when I got half way done gluing up, I realized that somebody had rearranged my pile, and I'd glued random ass pieces together that didn't match...

...it looked like dog **** while I was clamping, with air gaps at each joint I couldn't get to close up, the front banding 1/32"+ thinner than the plywood, terribly rounded uneven profiles and all sorts of slop where the two small end pieces moved in the clamps off-plane from the center piece.

So today when I got home, I fired up the table saw and cut that **** right off the plywood. (I think) I had enough plywood to start the shelves over, but found the plywood wasn't messed up yet. All the same, I turned them around so the cut-off biscuits are butted against the back wall. I then ripped them down to 1/8" over the width of the other shelf fronts (to compensate for the lost plywood), rough cut them " longer than the shelves, marked, biscuited, and just finished gluing them up. The clamps are ready to come off, and I'm beat.



It's going to be a long weekend, full of work. Much of next week, too. This puts me back in the position that I only need to get everything sanded down, stained and poly'd. I'm seeing the light at the end of the (albiet very long) tunnel again.



The tracker doesn't show a whole lot of progress. Seems to just be that way in the stage of the project that each step takes a deal longer than other steps. Especially when you have to re-do steps... :\
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:24 PM   #282
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Mind PM'ing the wholesalers name?
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:56 PM   #283
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Check your inbox.
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:33 AM   #284
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As expected, work ate up most of my time. Unfortunately picked up an extra 8 hr shift both this week and next. Pile on 4 tests for college credit (3 on Monday, 1 on Tuesday, with another the following week to complete my 2nd degree), and my schedule has been pretty tight. I'm told to expect this level of work until after Valentine's... oh boy!

All those extra hours at work need to be filled with something, and when all the work is done, that leaves a little time for my personal projects' R&D. Lately, I've been working on picking out the router bits I'll need for the near future... and I'm really liking the prices of Yonico bits, especially since they have many profiles that are exact matches to MLCS for 40-50% cheaper. They're carried on eBay, Amazon and a site called Precision Bits, so I can buy from Amazon to get the free shipping, avoid tax, and get their return policy to protect myself in case they're crummy bits.

I sent Precision Bits an email through their site to inquire about quantity discounts and getting one bit swapped out in a 5-bit raised panel set because they don't have the profile I want in a 5-bit set, and I received a quick response back from Jonathan, who will be sending me a coupon for existing customers... looks like I might have to buy one or two cheapie bits separately to get that code to work.

I'll post the profiles I'm looking to get shortly.
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:45 AM   #285
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For large box lids, chests, maybe even gifts:




For my planned pictures frames from Padauk:




For basic joinery, because I've always had an eye for these, but never gotten to play with them:


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