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Old 06-18-2014, 09:23 AM   #106
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1952 Brick Traditional overhaul


And a few more.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:26 AM   #107
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1952 Brick Traditional overhaul


Craigslist score! Someone posted free brick on the curb so we hauled butt over there at 10pm tonight and picked it up. It isn't good enough to use for the thermal box, but it makes great rubble for the thermal mass fill. We are getting close to securing all of the needed supplies.

Today I did a small dry fit to see how big the thermal mass box needs to be in order to get the amount of heat needed. Here are a few pictures. We found some really cheap fire brick on line with free shipping. Decided not to go with the Craigslist fire brick because it was the wrong size. At this point, we have to get the thermal mass box built before we can go any further with the shelf construction. Since we are trying to get some freebie stuff, we might be stalled for a bit. Orchid meeting this weekend.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:20 AM   #108
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1952 Brick Traditional overhaul


Wow, you have some fantastic flowers, they are beautiful, the photos are clear as a bell also. Thanks for sharing, I would be proud of those.

I am watching with interest of your RMH build. Years back I was into the Mother Earth News concept of different ways to heat your home and live off the grid. I still find it fascinating that other ways keep coming to light, I love to learn new things.

Being an ole farm boy who was raised living off the grid, I appreciate some of the new and better ways of doing some things and the RMH is right up there from what I see.

Just a quick question, would it be more efficient if you had some Styrofoam insulation between the outside wall and the heater? Just thinking it may throw the heat back into the room instead of the outside wall, may cause sweat also that close to the outside wall. I am just thinking out loud, haven't really given it a lot of thought.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:16 PM   #109
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1952 Brick Traditional overhaul


Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJim View Post
Wow, you have some fantastic flowers, they are beautiful, the photos are clear as a bell also. Thanks for sharing, I would be proud of those.

Just a quick question, would it be more efficient if you had some Styrofoam insulation between the outside wall and the heater? Just thinking it may throw the heat back into the room instead of the outside wall, may cause sweat also that close to the outside wall. I am just thinking out loud, haven't really given it a lot of thought.
Thanks!

For the insulation, we will be putting fire retardant something or other in the corner where the RMH barrels are for sure. It gets really hot (there have been reports of up to 800 degrees - see Zero Fossil's RH on YouTube) and will have to have something otherwise it will melt the poly panels and burn the GH to the ground.



Zero's rocket stove doesn't have the thermal mass, but his RS is the exact dimension of our barrel so we are following his basic design. Plus he has done a lot of testing and has been detailed in his planning and safety.

Of course, in the GH we cannot cover too many of the panels because it will limit the light, but it might be worthwhile to add your insulation idea behind the thermal mass box. Also recommended is a bubble wrap on the outside of the GH during the winter.

Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:34 PM   #110
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Thanks for the link, that is some good stuff.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:33 AM   #111
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Went to the local antique mall today and found this lovely piece of reclaimed barn cedar. This will become my new potting table. It will be 30" tall so that it fits a standard chair. I already have an all weather chair from the old shade house so we will reuse that one. Check out the wood grain on the cedar! It has a coat of mineral oil now. Once that soaks in and dries, I will give it a very light sanding to knock off any splinters. Then it will get several coats of either tung oil or a wax. It is going to be functional and beautiful. $13 was a steal.

I'll have to ask Keith for the expert opinion to bring out the wood grain while making it waterproof.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:20 AM   #112
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If you like old antique wood, there is a place out past Bartlett that has antique Heart Pine and weathered barnwood, if you like I will look up the name and address. America Heart Pine is the name of the place, it is also online.

That is a good looking piece of Aromatic Cedar, that will look great.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:15 AM   #113
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1952 Brick Traditional overhaul


Hi Melissa:

Well, that's a pretty decent looking board you have there.

It looks as though you have already got the color of the wood to come out pretty well, and that is usually fairly easy to do with cedar. Now I see that Jim calls that aromatic cedar, but it looks to me more like western red cedar, although I may well be wrong. It's hard to tell from your pictures.

It was cut on the old circular style sawmill, which gives it those characteristic curved lines.

It might have been better if you were able to give it a fairly thorough sanding with a random orbital or even a pad sander, and then vacuum the wood to get all the dust off before you did any finishing. It looks like you have got the wood fairly clean anyway.

Now as far as waterproofing goes, that is quite a tall order with cedar, because that particular wood moves so much through the seasons. However, given that this is an old board which has seen many years on a building outside (presumably) just about all the moisture in the wood cell walls should be gone. Once that happens, there will be very little movement left in that board.

Are you going to have the potting bench inside your greenhouse? If so, then it will be easier to look after. Stick with a flexible finish - such as Tung oil or something similar. My all time favorite with cedar is marine spar varnish, but your wood with the rough surface would not take kindly to that. Varnish needs a very smooth surface to work well.

You will be able to maintain that nice color by giving the wood a good cleaning every year and adding another coat or two of your chosen finish. Whatever you do, once you get started on the finish, stick with the same one. And do the front, back, sides and ends.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:24 PM   #114
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Hi Keith,

Yes, it will be inside the GH. We have killer mosquitoes so I want a nice cool place to work in the summer away from the attackers.

Here is the top post sanding, vacuuming and with one coat of Tung oil.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:01 PM   #115
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1952 Brick Traditional overhaul


Melissa, it looks like there are some black areas in your wood. It could be from a number of things, but whatever they are you don't want them.

We both jumped the gun on finishing and I wish I had seen those marks first. I'm going to suggest that you try some diluted bleach on a small section to see if you can get most of the black removed. It's pretty hard to second guess what it might be, but I would like you to do one thing. Take a very sharp object, like a heavy duty sewing needle for example, and see how far you can push it into the wood. Then try an area without any black. If the black area is obviously softer, then you have the beginnings of some kind of wood degradation. I won't call it rot, but it may be a long dead fungal growth of some kind. Sure would be easier to diagnose if I was right there.

Jim - when you read this - can you give me your thoughts on this?
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:48 PM   #116
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Thanks, Keith. I'll stick a rug needle in it. The black areas feel hard as a rock to me (like petrified almost). I actually thought they were burn marks from the original saw. I have some bleach so I can clean it this weekend. I'm not really too worried because it was a $13 investment. If it turns out to be a dud, not too big of a deal.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:52 PM   #117
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Keith, if the wood is Red Aromatic Eastern Cedar, just off the top of my head I would say that the dark spots are where the wood has been exposed to the elements to make it look gray like old barn wood siding, when oil is applied it will blacken like that. I could be completely wrong but that is my thoughts. The black I am talking about is in the first picture.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:35 AM   #118
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Thanks Jim, that could well be what it is.

Melissa says the wood is still hard, so it isn't going to be rot of any kind. And besides, cedar doesn't usually rot anyway when used as siding. I wonder if it could be staining from metal, i.e. nails? Hard to tell without being right there.
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:13 AM   #119
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How would I know if it is Western or Eastern Cedar? To me, cedar smells the same...love it! It does have that nice cedar chest smell.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:13 PM   #120
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If it has that nice Cedar chest smell it is Aromatic Eastern Red Cedar, the Western Cedar doesn't have that smell. The first 30 minutes working with Aromatic Cedar it smells so good, after that I can't stand the smell.

Some of the black that I see is dried resin, when it dries it is harder than Superman's knee caps.

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