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Old 02-01-2007, 11:15 AM   #31
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


It appears open. I stuck a coathanger down the line last night and did not feel anything.

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Old 02-01-2007, 05:10 PM   #32
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


Quote:
My multimeter only has probes, not alligator clips, so I didn't bother monitoring the voltage.
At the fill valve you didn't measure when the icemaker was started, the wire was removed and the icemaker was allowed to cycle through? Push the meter probes in the plastic covers for the fill valve termianls or tape the meter probes to the fill valve termianls.

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why does your recommended ice maker not include a controller? Could the controller go bad?
Controller?
Module?

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Old 02-01-2007, 07:39 PM   #33
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


Yes, initially, I had the multimeter in contact with the connectors and plugged the fridge in. From there, I had my wife pull the U wire. I didn't see a noticeable change in voltage (2.8 volts), so I didn't bother checking the voltage anymore with the tests I ran after that. Based on all that I've done, I can't figure out what the problem is. The biggest thing is that the inlet valve connector is not reaching 120 volts, so thus the valve is not opening to allow water to flow to the icemaker.

Yes, module. It's the part that plugs into the icemaker and has probes that plub into T and H. There's also an "Ice Plus" and "Normal" switch.
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
There's also an "Ice Plus" and "Normal" switch
I'd leave that off.

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Yes, module. - why does your recommended ice maker not include a controller?
Icemaker comes with the module...or I should say the module comes with the icemaker kit:


Replacement Icemaker mechanism used on GS5SHGXLS01

Quote:
Yes, initially, I had the multimeter in contact with the connectors and plugged the fridge in. From there, I had my wife pull the U wire. I didn't see a noticeable change in voltage (2.8 volts), so I didn't bother checking the voltage anymore with the tests I ran after that.
How long did you wait? Takes a few minutes for the icemaker to cycle before calling for water.....basics, no power at the fill valve = no power from the icemaker or a broken wire between the icemaker and fill valve...power at the fill valve and the house water line is ok = bad fill valve.

Tan from the icemaker often goes to the fill valve, can try a temperary wire from tan at the icemaker to the fill valve.

Diagram I found online

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Old 02-02-2007, 06:04 AM   #35
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


For the most part, I think we can rule out a bad fill valve because there is no upramp in voltage regardless of how long I monitor the connector.

I waited about 3 - 4 minutes total from the plugging in the fridge, to pulling out the U wire, to the very end. I do notice that when I have the U wire plugged in, the porcelain base is ALWAYS hot, which to me says it's defrosting. Don't know why that is.

The picture that you have attached does not include the module. The white portion is just a plastic cap. There are no electronics in that cap (ie. no dual plugs that go into T and H). My existing icemaker has a whole electronics module that does have the T and H contacts, along with "Ice Plus" and "Normal" switches.

If the tan wire was bad, it would be an open circuit and I would get a zero voltage reading instead of 2.8 volts. Right?
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Old 02-02-2007, 08:25 AM   #36
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Quote:
I do notice that when I have the U wire plugged in, the porcelain base is ALWAYS hot, which to me says it's defrosting. Don't know why that is.
T H is thermostat, with it bypassed the mold heater will come on.

Quote:
The picture that you have attached does not include the module. The white portion is just a plastic cap. There are no electronics in that cap
There should be. We have used the kit before.


Motor and Gear Module

Quote:
If the tan wire was bad, it would be an open circuit and I would get a zero voltage reading instead of 2.8 volts. Right?
The other side of the fill valve is connected to the neutral which is common to everything in the refrigerator....ignore the ghost voltage reading.

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Old 02-02-2007, 09:56 AM   #37
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Something tells me that the mold heater remains on even after I remove the U wire.

Yes, the icemaker has the motor and gear module attached to it, but there is no separate module that controls "ice plus" or "normal." that attaches to the motor and gear module. This separate module must control the entire icemaker as it has prongs that plug into T & H also, nevermind just "ice plus" or "normal."

Am I measuring the wrong contacts? The solenoid has two prongs, and the electrical connector thus has two female connections. I've been sticking the MM probe in opposite connections in the same electrical connector, thus the ghost 2.8 volt reading.
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:13 AM   #38
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but there is no separate module that controls "ice plus" or "normal." that attaches to the motor and gear module.
Remove it.

Quote:
Am I measuring the wrong contacts?
Unknown since we cannot see from here...



...red coil appears to be icemaker as it has the 1/4" line, the other coil should be for chilled water since it's exit line appears to be 5/16".



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Old 02-03-2007, 06:03 PM   #39
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


Yes, that's exactly how I checked first, and then hooked it up.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:20 AM   #40
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


If the fill valve works ok with a test cord, already have a new icemaker with new module but still cannot get power to the fill valve...leaves an open wire between the two items.
Worth a try!

JMO

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Old 02-04-2007, 01:10 PM   #41
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


I did not try a test cord. I'm up for danger, but not too crazy about doing such destructive testing. I mean, I'm not getting anywhere near 120 volts at the solenoid connector, so trying a test cord wouldn't be priority.

Sounds like either an open wire/broken connection, or maybe a loose connection at the connector itself (ie. female connection not contacting the prongs.).
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Old 02-10-2007, 11:52 PM   #42
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


Also, I didn't replace the wiring harness with any of the multiple wiring harnesses that came with the new icemaker when I switched out the old icemaker. The existing wiring harness seems to have a hotdog shaped cover/interface on the inside wall of the fridge. How is this harness removed without taking the inside wall panel out? Is there any reason to suspect it could be a wiring harness gone bad?

Last edited by handy man88; 02-11-2007 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:26 AM   #43
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


Repairman stopped by and I told him what I had done. He jumped L and V and water came out! By him jumping L & V, that proves that the valve does lift and water does come to the icemaker.

I told him that I had installed the new icemaker and that it did not request water and thus did not produce ice, so I removed it. He told me that I should leave the new icemaker in and within 2 hours, ice should be made, otherwise it would be a valve problem. Takes 2-3 days for it to get on a roll. Ambient temperature in the freezer directly affects ice making. Charged me $57.99 - 10% for showing up. Discount came b/c my realtor referred his company.

I reinstalled the new icemaker, closed the fridge, and left it alone. After about 1/2 hour, you could hear it working again. Ice was being made, so there's nothing wrong with valve and no need to make a dangerous test cord. With the new icemaker installed, everything works fine now.

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Old 06-11-2007, 12:39 PM   #44
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Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!


How did the repairman "jump" L and V?
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Old 06-11-2007, 06:15 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by noice View Post
How did the repairman "jump" L and V?
Very easy. Take a ~4 inch piece of 12 gauge wire. Strip both ends by about 3/4 inch. Bend into a U shape, and just plug it into the L and V holes.

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