Whirlpool refrig. problem

NHtransplant · 09-11-2012, 01:48 PM

ADent, I was having this problem and looked around on here for answers. I just replaced the filter and all seems good now. It had been a while since I replaced it and the water dispenser was slow. I think it just wasn't getting enough pressure with the dirty filter.
Just thought I would mention it.

ADent · 09-13-2012, 02:10 AM

I installed a new control board and my lights are back on. Looks just like the photos, so I am saving it for a solder repair later. I also ditched the incandescent bulbs for LEDs to prevent a reoccurrence.

johnana · 03-26-2013, 11:06 PM

Happy to report that the fix described by dantera (post 65 on page 5) worked for me as well.
Fixing the burnt out board trace was not enough, but after I replaced the transistor next to the burn, everything was back to normal.

The transistor on my board was an SMD (surface-mount device) with label 3F. After googling, I found that this corresponds to BC857, which is a PNP general purpose transistor.
The local electronics store didn't have BC857, but they did have BC856, which is close enough. Note that this transistor doesn't directly pass the current for the bulbs, but simply helps control the relays. Therefore, it doesn't have to support extremely high voltages (BC857 is rated at 45V, and BC856 is 65V).
Recommended way is, of course, to find the exact replacement part that was originally on your board (just google SMD and whatever code is on the transistor). If you don't get the exact same transistor, make sure you get the same type (PNP in my case).

Word of caution; if you don't have any soldering experience, I wouldn't recommend tackling this. The transistor and board contacts are tiny, and you are more likely to destroy the board than to fix it if you're not careful.
Personally, this was my first time soldering an SMD component, but I have lots of experience with soldering ordinary components.

My capacitors were fine, but make sure to check yours in case one or more need replacing.

Hope this info helps somebody.

wrkmpls · 05-04-2013, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Musiccha

Geetings all,
First great site and forum. You all helped me fix my frige (GD5RHAXNT00). However, I did take a slightly different path than most did.
I also found a hot spot on my board. At first I was going to do the jumper thing at the board connector but my model did not have the black wire on the ten pin connector. I decided to keep the board as some did and do some rewiring (the board is 1/3 the cost of the frige).

Thanks to jeff I found the wiring pdf and was able to get a good look at how this thing works. The switched leg (yellow wire) that turns on the lights also sends a signal back to the board seemed important to me so, I did the following..

At the wiring harness near the center of the frig (behind the cardboard in the back) 3 wires come out from the body of the frige and goin the main harness. I cut the yellow/rd wire and taped the end that goes to the control box. I refed the other end (that goes into the connector leading into the frig body) by splicing it into the black wire located in the harness. This black wire is a 120v feed from the power cord.

What my fix did (I think) was reduce the load on the board and bypass the fucntion that turns the light on and off while keeping the function that turns the display on and off. It also resulted in a kiss from my wife.

This is a GREAT post and easy fix. It took me 15 minutes to splice the wires as described above and we now have lights in the fridge for the first time in 6 months! THANK YOU! If there is any way to pass my email address to the Musiccha, I would gladly send him a gift card.