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Old 09-11-2012, 12:48 PM   #136
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ADent, I was having this problem and looked around on here for answers. I just replaced the filter and all seems good now. It had been a while since I replaced it and the water dispenser was slow. I think it just wasn't getting enough pressure with the dirty filter.
Just thought I would mention it.

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Old 09-13-2012, 01:10 AM   #137
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I installed a new control board and my lights are back on. Looks just like the photos, so I am saving it for a solder repair later. I also ditched the incandescent bulbs for LEDs to prevent a reoccurrence.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:06 PM   #138
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Happy to report that the fix described by dantera (post 65 on page 5) worked for me as well.
Fixing the burnt out board trace was not enough, but after I replaced the transistor next to the burn, everything was back to normal.

The transistor on my board was an SMD (surface-mount device) with label 3F. After googling, I found that this corresponds to BC857, which is a PNP general purpose transistor.
The local electronics store didn't have BC857, but they did have BC856, which is close enough. Note that this transistor doesn't directly pass the current for the bulbs, but simply helps control the relays. Therefore, it doesn't have to support extremely high voltages (BC857 is rated at 45V, and BC856 is 65V).
Recommended way is, of course, to find the exact replacement part that was originally on your board (just google SMD and whatever code is on the transistor). If you don't get the exact same transistor, make sure you get the same type (PNP in my case).

Word of caution; if you don't have any soldering experience, I wouldn't recommend tackling this. The transistor and board contacts are tiny, and you are more likely to destroy the board than to fix it if you're not careful.
Personally, this was my first time soldering an SMD component, but I have lots of experience with soldering ordinary components.

My capacitors were fine, but make sure to check yours in case one or more need replacing.

Hope this info helps somebody.
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:49 PM   #139
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Easy Fix! Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiccha View Post
Geetings all,
First great site and forum. You all helped me fix my frige (GD5RHAXNT00). However, I did take a slightly different path than most did.
I also found a hot spot on my board. At first I was going to do the jumper thing at the board connector but my model did not have the black wire on the ten pin connector. I decided to keep the board as some did and do some rewiring (the board is 1/3 the cost of the frige).

Thanks to jeff I found the wiring pdf and was able to get a good look at how this thing works. The switched leg (yellow wire) that turns on the lights also sends a signal back to the board seemed important to me so, I did the following..

At the wiring harness near the center of the frig (behind the cardboard in the back) 3 wires come out from the body of the frige and goin the main harness. I cut the yellow/rd wire and taped the end that goes to the control box. I refed the other end (that goes into the connector leading into the frig body) by splicing it into the black wire located in the harness. This black wire is a 120v feed from the power cord.

What my fix did (I think) was reduce the load on the board and bypass the fucntion that turns the light on and off while keeping the function that turns the display on and off. It also resulted in a kiss from my wife.
This is a GREAT post and easy fix. It took me 15 minutes to splice the wires as described above and we now have lights in the fridge for the first time in 6 months! THANK YOU! If there is any way to pass my email address to the Musiccha, I would gladly send him a gift card.
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:11 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indyvol View Post


After living with no lights (on the refrigerator side) for about a year, we decided to go ahead and bite the bullet and pay the $100+ for the control board. My wife had called our local repair guy and told him about the problem mentioned in this thread. He hadn't heard about this problem and told her the bulbs were the problem. So just out of curiosity I googled the model number and found this site. After reading the posts I decided to try the repairs mentioned on earlier posts. For those who are wondering--that fixes the problem.

To help clarify...My frig did not have the 2 black wires on the 10 pin connector either. Like instructed in an earlier post, I tapped the yellow (w/ red tracer) to the solid black wire in the wire bundle that runs along the bottom of the frig. (Not the black wire w/ white tracer.) In the middle of the frig, just behind the cardboard cover is a 3 wire connector w/ 2 yellow wires and the yellow/red wire. Clip the yellow/red wire below the that 3 wire connector--making sure you have enough to reach the solid black wire. There is not a lot of slack there. I put a wire nut onthe yellow/red wire that goes back to the circuit board and taped it up. I simply clipped the solid black wire and wire-nutted the yellow/red wire to the (now) 2 black wires and taped everything back. Make sure you tie or tape everything back to take any strain off of the wire nut and avoid chaffing or pinching the wires.

Good luck and spend you $120 on something other than a part Whirlpool won't stand behind!

Just wanted to offer a big Thank you for the quick and very easy fix. Mine was a garage Frig and no way I was spending over 100 bucks for a new board. Yet having no lights was still a royal pain in the back side..

Following your instructions I got all the wires identified, (very clear BTW) easy to trace. I made the cuts reattached wires as directed wire nutted all connections and the dead lead ,taped all wire nuts down and all was good to go, lights and LED display now working.....Thank you again very much, gotta love the internet...

Last edited by fltflo; 05-11-2014 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:30 PM   #141
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Opening door kills compressor


I had a similar problem with my control board relays. However, my Whirlpool GS6SHAXML00 Side-by-side, mfg date 11/2003 would start cycling a relay when I opened the refrig door, but only when the compressor was not running. This relay clicking would continue for several minutes, even after the door was shut. Then after a couple of months with this problem, came home and found the freezer thawed. After checking the control board for damage (none found) and verifying the relays (3) all worked, I plugged the unit back in and the compressor came on. But when I opened the refrig door (not the freezer door), the compressor stopped and would only come back on by cycling power at the wall plug. After verifying this repeats every time I opened the door, I simply taped the door switch down and the unit worked fine--just no lights now.

From this blog, I found that I could wire the door switch (yellow/red striped) wire going to the P2 10-pin connector directly to the 120 volt line. Note that hot wiring the plain yellow (no red stripe) wire would bypass the door switch and leave the lights on all the time, even when the door is shut. As my unit does not have the two black wires going to the P2 connector, I just tied into the black wire going to the P1 4-pin connector on the board. Per the wiring diagram, this wire comes directly from the incoming power and allowed all the splices to be done inside the control box. Problem solved without buying a $200 control board. Everything works, no relay chatter and the compressor doesn't shut down when I open the door. Back in service thanks to the prior bloggers.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:54 PM   #142
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6Yr old KitchenAid Refridgerator


Can't get circuit board
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:33 PM   #143
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the PC board


I hope to someday repay the user dantera for providing an intelligent solution. I had no intention of "hot wiring" an appliance that could burn our house to the ground. So I ordered 2 of the SMD PNP BJT's figuring I'd mess the first one up. I watched a couple videos on SMD solder/desolder. I needed only one transistor. and the jumper. Lo and behold a former PE in Chemical Engineering fixed an electronics problem. Actually, I simply followed well written instructions. Our 2005 Whirlpool lives in 2016. I think I'll have a congratulatory cookie.
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:49 PM   #144
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Re: Whirlpool refrig. problem


I found this thread last summer in 2015 when I got this non working fridge for free from a co-worker. At that point the boards were hard to find and expensive. I stumbled across a place that repairs circuit boards online. $160 and a 2 year warranty. I figured why not.

They apparently knew about the problem because there is a solder jumper over the offending area. I don't think that trace had actually burned yet. maybe it had and I don't remember rightly.

Stuck in the new board and it worked fine for about two months until the compressor died. I think a wind blew. I didn't have time to mess with it and have 2 other working fridges so I let it sit.

Fast forward to last week. I replaced the compressor and everything worked fine for a few days. Then this board fries in a different location.

There is a jumper, JP52, on the top side of the board that connects the previous weak spot to this new burned spot. Where it burned here is a much wider path.

Maybe this will help someone close in on the event that is killing these.

Oh, and as of lately, I can't find replacement boards for any amount of money. At least I'm still in the warranty for the repair done to this one.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:52 PM   #145
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Re: Whirlpool refrig. problem


You would have to pay me to haul a non working frig. to the dump.
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:11 PM   #146
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Re: Whirlpool refrig. problem


What is the best way to pop the control panel off the front of a Whirlpool Side by Side Ultra Ease? I dont want to break it
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:46 PM   #147
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Re: Whirlpool refrig. problem


Musiccha, I liked your post. My problem is also coming from the main control board. My freezer won't go into defrost mode. Since you have a pdf of the board's schematic, can you tell me which relay controls the defrost function? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Of course a copy would be more than helpful.
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Old 02-25-2017, 12:27 PM   #148
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Re: Fix


Quote:
Originally Posted by dantera View Post
Fix for "Whirlpool lights Flicker Problem"

I went ahead and fixed the control board myself. It took about 2 hours of figuring out the circuitry (difficult without a schematic) plus time to solder and replace some parts, and cost about 25 cents (that’s right, cents not dollars!). Hopefully with my posting it’ll take the reader only a few minutes to fix the board. You can directly go the end of the posting for the instructions if you don’t want to read my two cents.

I still don’t know the root cause of the problem, and I can only guess. Maybe if I set up some experiments I might have a better idea, but who’s got the time. (And once again I don’t have a schematic so it’s even more difficult)
The trace layout on this board is very poor. I design boards and it’s pretty obvious the people who laid out this board did a poor job at it. If the bulb went out when the door was opened it’s conceivable that some inductive surge event could have caused the problems that followed. One component that went bad was the transistor (see picture) next to the burnt trace. It could have died due some detrimental inductive/capacitive coupling caused by poor board layout. The transistor going bad could have caused the initial flickering of the light bulbs – the transistor controls the relay and it was rapidly moving the relay arms back and forth between “power” and “no-power” states. Eventually the transistor completely dies (I measured 16 ohms between emitter and base), which then switches the relay arms from “power” to “no-power” state. And that’s where it sits until you replace the transistor. I still don’t know why the trace burned (that trace is the 110V line that powers the bulbs – connects to the yellow/red tracer wire). Splicing the yellow/red tracer wire directly to 110V will also help, but if there’s ever a situation when the control logic deems that the lights need to be turned off then you are out of luck – “splicing” hard wires the lights to 110V (when the door switch is closed). So, if your lights are out, then replace the transistor (see instructions below).
In my case not only did I not have the lights, but my fridge wasn’t cooling. I traced that problem to C16 220uF, 35V Electrolytic cap (next to the biggest cap on the board). You should read around 3k Ohms across that cap but I was reading 13 Ohms. In the case of this board you should read high resistance values across all the caps – (3k being the lowest value across the aforementioned cap). If you don’t read high resistance values across any of the caps then replace that cap.

And finally the instructions (you need to have access to a soldering iron – pretty cheap). The picture is small, if necessary compare to the larger picture on page 4.

1) Put a jumper across the burnt trace. From the picture below the most accessible points are the two solder points marked in the red Xs. It’s important to have one end of the wire on the X on the left. The other end is just 110V – you can get it at the other X or from one of the connectors but this spot is easy. Don’t use too thin of a wire (20ish AWG is ok). For better isolation between the jumper wire and components//solder points on the board put some Kapton tape on the board under the wire.
2) Replace the transistor (see picture) with a PNP BJT with at least 150V rating (any electronic supplier, Digikey etc – cost is less than 10 cents.) I used the MMBT5401.
3) If your fridge isn’t cooling, then if possible measure resistance across all the caps and replace as necessary. Assuming your problem is the same as mine, then replace the 220uF capacitor (next to the biggest cap on the board and on the other side of the board). Be sure to use a 105 degree C cap as it’s pretty warm where the board resides. A cap with a voltage rating of 35V (or whatever voltage is indicated on the cap) or higher should be used. Cost of cap is less than 20 cents.
4) Optionally, you could put a snap-on ferrite bead (big enough) on the 3 wire (white, yellow, yellow/red-tracer) cable going up to the lights in the fridge. If there is a surge issue, then the ferrite will suppress it.

That should do it. This way you save a lot of money. By the way, that was a heck of a lot of current that burned the trace – it’s potentially a safety issue. I think everyone should raise a bit of a stink about this.
(If a bigger and clearer picture is needed, I can email it - I can't seem to attach a bigger picture to my posting - if anyone knows please let me know how.)
dan_tera@hotmail.com
Thanks for this great fixit post, I just finished up fixing the board as instructed above, and I think that was the smallest transistor that I've ever tried to install ! Amazing that the failure was exactly the same, even though this fridge lasted quite a few years after most of these posts. Ran a month or so with out the light/LED display as I waited on the transistor to be shipped from China. I notice that this circuit board being older now has doubled in price to > $200, or some have fixit services for less than $100 but you must mail in your old board (not sure how this works since the fridge would be out of service). It does take a bit of effort to solder in that smd.

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