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lifestooshort81 08-25-2013 07:14 AM

Washing machine woes...need DIYer advice
 
Hi folks,
My washing machine quit working on me the other day. I'm not exactly in the position to go run out and even buy a used one so I want to attempt to fix mine. I'm a contractor and very mechanically and electrically inclined. So why am i posting here? Well Id like a second opinion before I just go buying parts.

Here's what I have going on. The washer fills up. It then agitated and went into spin mode; then quit. The motor will hum as if it wants to start but doesn't spin. I can tell the motor is drawing current and trying to start by the way the lights dim when they're on. This was the norm for a brief second as the machine would then start to spin.

SO my thoughts are this: I think the transmission is bad/frozen. I don't think this is an electrical motor issue but I could be wrong. It doesn't matter what position the timer is in; when the motor goes to start it just hums and doesn't do anything.

Any thoughts? I really have to pull the motor and do a bench test to fully eliminate that but to do so is a huge pain because where the machine is located, I have VERY LITTLE room to remove the cover. It's a huge hassle so I would to try and do it once and be done.

Your input/opinions are much appreciated!

Btw the washer is a direct drive top loading Kenmore (older model; maybe mid-late 90's with the wood grain control panel).

Thanks,
Al C

beenthere 08-25-2013 07:19 AM

Moved to Appliance forum.

joecaption 08-25-2013 07:27 AM

Going to need the full make and model # to even make a guess.

wkearney99 08-25-2013 08:41 AM

You're going to need the model number. I find it's helpful to use the phone camera to take a picture of the hard to reach places they hide those labels. With that you can search for parts. Best to get a heads-up on what the major parts are going to cost first and then decide how much effort you'd want to put into repairing it. Sites like searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are good places to check. If just for the exploded parts diagrams to help you figure out how to disassemble things...

lifestooshort81 08-25-2013 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wkearney99
You're going to need the model number. I find it's helpful to use the phone camera to take a picture of the hard to reach places they hide those labels. With that you can search for parts. Best to get a heads-up on what the major parts are going to cost first and then decide how much effort you'd want to put into repairing it. Sites like searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are good places to check. If just for the exploded parts diagrams to help you figure out how to disassemble things...

Thanks, should have done that first. Ha-ha

Sears Kenmore (whirlpool)
Model number is 110.92281100 is the model number.

top loading washer, 10amps...should be a better start to my question.

Thanks

wkearney99 08-25-2013 09:01 AM

A search on that part number revealed quite a few links that discuss repairing it.

This video seemed informative: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veP71xdNnxc

joecaption 08-25-2013 09:14 AM

http://www.repairclinic.com/vwo1/Rep...in-11092281100

lifestooshort81 08-25-2013 10:26 AM

no luck on the youtube videos. Most are just generic diagnostic videos. I've spent the last hour looking and watching. Shy of opening the machine up I at least have a better idea as to what the internals are made up of. I didn't know there was an actual clutch and drum assembly attached to the transmission. Pretty cool.....

Any other input is much appreciated.

Thanks Again!

wkearney99 08-25-2013 12:30 PM

The point is if you're not going to pay someone else to diagnose it then you're going to have to learn how yourself. Between the diagrams and videos online you should be to apply that to what you learn about your particular model. It's pretty unlikely you're going to find a specific answer. You're going to have to read what others have encountered, what they did to fix it and apply that against what your washer isn't doing right.

The repairclinic folks are pretty helpful. Get in contact with them and perhaps they can offer more model-specific advice.

hardwareman 08-26-2013 03:36 PM

the best thing you could do is remove the cabinet, comes off as 1 piece from the front side. Drop the motor, also very easy, held on with 2 clips. Now try to run the motor. My bet is either you have something jammed in the pump making the motor unable to run or you have a bad motor.

lifestooshort81 09-19-2013 09:32 AM

Hi Folks, I thought I replied to this but apparently I didn't. SO finally got to pulling the cover off the machine and to my surprise, the starter capacitor leaked its electrolytic goop all over. Did some research on the part and an "OEM" replacement is like $30. Using my little knowledge of other vendors, I checked Grainger for the part... They had the same size cap for $7. Cheap enough but for some reason I decided to check McMaster-Carr. They had the same cap for $3.50. I bought two just in case and all said and done (shipped and all) it cost me the same amount as it would from Grainger shipped for two caps shipped from McMaster... so $15 aprox. I got the part and an extra!

Popped the cap (pun intended) in the machine and VOILA we are back in business!!! Just to be sure I also found a listing of what the winding resistences should be. Checked them against my motor and everything is within spec!

WOO-HOO - thanks everyone for the input/help. It is much appreciated!!!!

Al

wkearney99 09-19-2013 01:28 PM

Now that's a good outcome. I doubt you'll even need another capacitor but for the price it certainly doesn't hurt to have a spare. I've got a spare microwave capacitor from a similar episode. Been moving that box around 10 years now... someday it'll come in handy...


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