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-   -   Panel Lights and Beeping on Kenmore 795.7554 Fridge (http://www.diychatroom.com/f47/panel-lights-beeping-kenmore-795-7554-fridge-147999/)

whitedavidp 06-23-2012 12:10 PM

Panel Lights and Beeping on Kenmore 795.7554 Fridge
 
In the past week, I have seen this happen three times and then go away. I am getting concerned. Here is what happens: open the left door and close it again, the panel lights show 88/-88/snowflake and the filter and lock lights go on and stay on, the thing beeps three times. If you open/close the left door again, you can see the panel quickly display normal info then goes and does this. Once it gets this way, opening/closing the right door or the freezer has no impact. What's up? Thanks

whitedavidp 06-24-2012 11:14 AM

Yesterday after posting, the lights had not changed and I was starting to get concerned that something might go wrong and spoil a bunch of food. So I put a digital thermometer in there. After about 5 minutes, I checked and it showed 30 degrees (while the fridge is set to 37). Not sure if the temp was actually too low or it was a false reading for some reason.

I then found myself thinking: this thing has a computer of some sort in it. As a computer programmer, I wondered if it might need a reboot. So I turned off the circuit breaker, let it sit two minutes, and turned it back on. Now everything looks normal. The temp is back around 37 on the digital thermometer.

I will keep a close eye on this beast. Cheers!

hardwareman 06-24-2012 02:24 PM

yeah, even appliance electronics need to be reset once in awhile

whitedavidp 06-24-2012 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitedavidp (Post 950349)
Yesterday after posting, the lights had not changed and I was starting to get concerned that something might go wrong and spoil a bunch of food. So I put a digital thermometer in there. After about 5 minutes, I checked and it showed 30 degrees (while the fridge is set to 37). Not sure if the temp was actually too low or it was a false reading for some reason.

I then found myself thinking: this thing has a computer of some sort in it. As a computer programmer, I wondered if it might need a reboot. So I turned off the circuit breaker, let it sit two minutes, and turned it back on. Now everything looks normal. The temp is back around 37 on the digital thermometer.

I will keep a close eye on this beast. Cheers!

Well, it is about 24 hours after I did this reset and the darn thing has done it again. This time, when I opened the door, the digital thermometer was reading about 45 degrees which is way too warm compared to the usual 37 degrees at which I keep the thing set. So I have just re-done the reset, waited 15 minutes, and now see the temp has fallen to 41. Not sure if this 24 hour cycle will repeat itself again tomorrow. But if it does, is there something that happens once every 24 hours or so that could cause this?

hardwareman 06-24-2012 04:01 PM

that is an LG built refrig, (sorry) so I don't have a great amount of experience with it . It could be a few different problems . It could be a temp sensor is going bad, a door switch or even the main board. Probably need to call in a tech to troubleshoot it.

whitedavidp 06-27-2012 02:46 PM

A little more info, perhaps... It has been a couple days since I have last removed/restored power in an attempt to reset the fridge. So far, no return of the all-lights-on phenomenon. However, my wife pointed out to me (and I have confirmed) that even though the door was open for more than 30 seconds or so, the door open beeper/warning was not going off. Usually this happens within 30 seconds and is something that generally pisses my wife off. So I just removed/restored power to the unit and the door open warning is again going off within 30 seconds. I am not sure what this means but it is more strange behavior. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

whitedavidp 06-27-2012 09:07 PM

Thanks for your response. It could well be the brain card in this thing. The fridge was indeed made by LG for Sears and I have found a listing for an OEM replacement card at around $90 which, while it shouldn't really be necessary, isn't all that expensive.

I have had some dealings with bad fridge brain cards once before. That was a top of the line GE Profile fridge where, on a service call to deal with a lack of chilling, the very nice tech told me the problem was the card and that I could fix the single bad solder joint on a relay. He told me he was not allowed to fix that, only do a board replacement. A buddy and I were able to resolder the joint and have that fridge running fine in about 5 minutes with about $0.02 of materials.

I suspect that the door switch is not sticking. There are 3 doors on this unit (2 french doors and one lower freezer door). The alarm is sounded when any of these are left open for about 30 seconds. During the period when the alarm was NOT working at all, none of these triggered the alarm. So it would seem that all 3 would have to be sticking to get that result. That seems far fetched to me. But perhaps there is a "master" switch (which may be on the left French door) and maybe it is somehow damaged (other than simply being stuck).

I will continue to watch this unit and try to more fully characterize the problem so I can more closely identify the source. Thanks for all.

whitedavidp 07-22-2012 09:18 PM

It is now perhaps a month since I started this thread. Until today, I have generally been able to keep things running fine by turning off power for 5 minutes when the fridge acted-up. As of now, however, this does not seem to help. But the symptoms are different. Instead of all front panel lights on, unresponsive buttons, and beeping, I get no front panel lights, no beeping, and unresponsive buttons. And removing power for 5 minutes no longer changes anything. And I have noticed both before today if I did not remove power when the fridge acted-up the temp in the fridge started to drop well below the 37 for which it was set. I am noticing the same today.

All of this appears to be quite similar to what is described in this thread. However I have checked the continuity between the door panel connector and the connector at the left upper hinge several times, including today, and I have always gotten solid continuity on all 4 wires. So I do not think I am suffering from the same problem as that poster (broken wires inside the left door). Today when I did this check, I had the power off for maybe 30 minutes. I note that when I re-applied power, the panel lights came on normally. But none of the buttons respond at all.

Therefore, it seems to me that the issue could be either the main circuit card or the card on the front panel. I have visually inspected the front panel card while I had the dispenser off to check the continuity of the wires. I sure did not see anything visually wrong like a bad solder joint or a bulging capacitor. That does not mean it is ok, only that I could not see anything.

Is it at all likely that the front panel card could be bad or is it more likely that it is the main card? Any other ideas? Thanks

hardwareman 07-22-2012 09:29 PM

main board would be my best guess

whitedavidp 07-22-2012 10:01 PM

Things are getting even more odd (if that's possible). Now that I can no longer get any panel lights, panel button action or beeping when the left door is closed, I note that if I open the left door between 45 and 90 degrees, suddenly the front panel lights go on and the buttons respond. If I move the door closer to closed than 45 degrees, the lights go out and the buttons become non-responsive. I have checked the parts list and I do not see any proximity sensors or the like. Why this should have anything to do with the door's open position is a complete mystery to me.

whitedavidp 07-23-2012 02:59 PM

It seems now that I have finally been able to confirm that my problem is virtually identical to that shown in this thread. In my case, I seem to have troubles with only a single wire - the orange one running from front panel up and through the left hinge. Until now it has shown continuity when I tested it but the problem was intermittent so I just could have been testing at a good time. Today, I was able to test and get no continuity. So I have patched-in a wire exterior to the door and all is working fine now. The above thread and others I have seen for fancy 3-door fridges suggest that the main "fix" for this is an expensive, new door. Holy crap! And over time other wires going into the door may fail as well.


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