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-   -   Old gas kenmore range....no oven, but burners work (http://www.diychatroom.com/f47/old-gas-kenmore-range-no-oven-but-burners-work-86565/)

shadango 11-12-2010 08:48 PM

Old gas kenmore range....no oven, but burners work
 
Hi all

Hoping someone can help.

I am working on an old kenmore range...model 103.7426603

Its my grandma's.she 87, bless her heart, and she is adamant about getting her oven working again. LOL

The top burners light fine but the oven burner doesnt. The oven pilot is lit, and the thermocoupler underneath looks to be Ok, but when you turn the oven gas valve on, nothing....no sound, nothing.

Any ideas?

Thanks all.

hardwareman 11-12-2010 09:53 PM

wow, that is a very old oven, you may be out of luck. your oven does not have a thermocouple , it has the old style flame switch, which I'm sure is bad. the really bad news is that part is no laonger available with not substitutions, sorry

shadango 11-14-2010 07:42 AM

Really? That stinks.

Its my grandmother's stove.....would really mean a lot to her if I can get it working again...the thing looks showroom new!

Is it a long-gone part or recently discontinued? Maybe a chance I can find one "somewhere" not sold yet?

Do you think it could be the gas valve unit itself? The little bar of the flame switch that is in the pilot flame looks Ok....so it is the other end (round unit where the wire attaches) that is the issue?

So, with no thermocoupler, what controls the pilot gas being allowed to be on?

gregzoll 11-14-2010 01:37 PM

Get Grandma a early Christmas Present. Ranges start at around $330 for a low end gas range at Lowe's. You may even be able to find a Scratch & Dent at Sears, Lowe's, Home Depot, local appliance shop.

kenmac 11-14-2010 03:57 PM

here is a pic of a typical oven safety. I think you can still order them


you don't have to get them from sears




http://www.appliance411.com/faq/oven...es.395x190.gif

shadango 11-14-2010 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregzoll (Post 534160)
Get Grandma a early Christmas Present. Ranges start at around $330 for a low end gas range at Lowe's. You may even be able to find a Scratch & Dent at Sears, Lowe's, Home Depot, local appliance shop.

LOL Already tried that. Lots of sentimental value in it to her.

frankly, todays ranges arent made anywhere NEAR as solid and of such high quality as they were back then. Comparing my 1992 Roper to her 1960-something Kenmore is like night and day.

Its worth repairing if I can find the parts I need.

shadango 11-14-2010 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenmac (Post 534224)
here is a pic of a typical oven safety. I think you can still order them


you don't have to get them from sears




http://www.appliance411.com/faq/oven...es.395x190.gif

Thanks! So what is the correct way to test the flame switch to see if thats it or if its the safety/valve you show?

hardwareman 11-14-2010 05:01 PM

not the same
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by kenmac (Post 534224)
here is a pic of a typical oven safety. I think you can still order them


you don't have to get them from sears



http://www.appliance411.com/faq/oven...es.395x190.gif

this is not the type she has, she has a flame switch, big difference

hardwareman 11-14-2010 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadango (Post 534251)
Thanks! So what is the correct way to test the flame switch to see if thats it or if its the safety/valve you show?



do you have a ohm meter?

kenmac 11-14-2010 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardwareman (Post 534272)
this is not the type she has, she has a flame switch, big difference



She must have elec t.stat then. If that's the case the ones I referenced won't work

gregzoll 11-14-2010 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadango

LOL Already tried that. Lots of sentimental value in it to her.

frankly, todays ranges arent made anywhere NEAR as solid and of such high quality as they were back then. Comparing my 1992 Roper to her 1960-something Kenmore is like night and day.

Its worth repairing if I can find the parts I need.

There is more deeper, than sentential value on a hunk of metal. Tell her that it is unsafe to use, and that the family is concerned for her safety, due to the unsafe nature of her old stove.

shadango 11-14-2010 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardwareman (Post 534278)
do you have a ohm meter?

Yes, I do.

shadango 11-14-2010 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregzoll (Post 534398)
There is more deeper, than sentential value on a hunk of metal. Tell her that it is unsafe to use, and that the family is concerned for her safety, due to the unsafe nature of her old stove.

Why is it unsafe? Seems to me that "something" is doing its job....something has failed and therefore the gas wont start in the oven.

hardwareman 11-14-2010 11:08 PM

to do this the flame switch still needs to be hooked up and the pilot lit, just take your ohm meter and ohm acroos the two wires on the flame switch. for safty reasons kill the power to the stove and unhook 1 wire from the switch first. if it reads open it is a bad switch. I'll do a little checking tommorrow to see if there is a cross for this that you can use, I used to use a semi universal one back in the day when I saw these on occasion, but I have not seen or used one of these in probably over 10 - 15 years.

shadango 11-15-2010 04:53 AM

Thanks for your help.

Looking at the schematic, there is only one wire going to the flame switch (137).....there is also a "capacitor" listed that looks to have two wires (#92)....is this what you mean?

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...an_Pic0001.jpg


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