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Old 11-10-2013, 09:28 PM   #1
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


I have a GEJGSP28WEK2WW. The oven doesn't heat. The range and the broiler work fine, so I obviously have gas and electric to it.
The controls seem to work, but it doesn't heat up.

I googled and found two people with the same problem. One was told that the igniter only lasts 3-5 years and is probably bad, and another was told that the igniter probably wasn't getting adequate voltage.

It is less than 2 years old and hasn't been used much. Wouldn't I smell gas if the controls were on and there was no flame?
Do these ideas make sense.
If it is the igniter, any idea what the part number is?

Thanks.

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Old 11-10-2013, 10:18 PM   #2
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


Quote:
Originally Posted by Toller View Post
I have a GEJGSP28WEK2WW. The oven doesn't heat. The range and the broiler work fine, so I obviously have gas and electric to it.
The controls seem to work, but it doesn't heat up.

I googled and found two people with the same problem. One was told that the igniter only lasts 3-5 years and is probably bad, and another was told that the igniter probably wasn't getting adequate voltage.

It is less than 2 years old and hasn't been used much. Wouldn't I smell gas if the controls were on and there was no flame?
Do these ideas make sense.
If it is the igniter, any idea what the part number is?

Thanks.
most likley its the ignitor..call appliance parts company and give them your model # they will get you the ignitor part number...ben sr

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Old 11-11-2013, 06:38 AM   #3
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


Double check that model #. It's not coming up on any searches I've tried.
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:12 AM   #4
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


Quote:
Originally Posted by Toller View Post
Wouldn't I smell gas if the controls were on and there was no flame?


Thanks.
That's highly doubtful being a source of ignition is paramount.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:28 AM   #5
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Double check that model #. It's not coming up on any searches I've tried.
Somehow GE slide into the model number.
JGSP28WEK2WW
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:40 PM   #6
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


Any local appliance store should carry them or be able to get you the right part and get your stove back up and running in no time. Take part with you - make sure you get the right one. If you can wait, call or go online and ask GE, part may be covered and you may save some money. Then you will have an extra one in case it happens again. Just a thought.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toller View Post
If it is the igniter, any idea what the part number is?
Thanks.
Click on the below link; May be cheaper ones out there, google it and check around.
oven igniter

Last edited by jmon; 11-11-2013 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:18 PM   #7
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


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Originally Posted by Toller View Post
Wouldn't I smell gas if the controls were on and there was no flame?
No you would not smell gas because the gas valve will not open to let gas into the burner if the ignitor is not drawing enough amps.


Funny. I just replaced the ignitor on my oven burner 4 days ago.

Chek Ebay for your ignitor. Probably $25

Last edited by hammerlane; 11-11-2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:50 AM   #8
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


When I pulled the old igniter out, one of the screws stripped and just spun. Apparently it is a very common problem, judging from the number of complaints I have read. I had to remove the burner and grind the screw head off to get it off.

1) I have to buy at least one new screw. I see that the igniter screws are a very fine thread, while all the other sheet metal screws are coarse. I presume that is to be sure they are tight; but it also makes getting out a bear. Must I try to find a fine thread screw, or can I substitute a coarse thread screw; or even a bolt and nut? (I would have to take the burner out to get at the nut, but now that I know that trick...)

2) And I have to put the burner back. To remove it I took out two screws and pulled it off a small tube. Is putting it back just the opposite? That looks too easy. Why doesn't gas come out of the big openings that I suppose there to draw combustion air in?

I have the new part on order. Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:16 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Toller View Post
When I pulled the old igniter out, one of the screws stripped and just spun. Apparently it is a very common problem, judging from the number of complaints I have read. I had to remove the burner and grind the screw head off to get it off.

1) I have to buy at least one new screw. I see that the igniter screws are a very fine thread, while all the other sheet metal screws are coarse. I presume that is to be sure they are tight; but it also makes getting out a bear. Must I try to find a fine thread screw, or can I substitute a coarse thread screw; or even a bolt and nut? (I would have to take the burner out to get at the nut, but now that I know that trick...)

That's the hardest part. It would be best if you take the good screw with you to a hardware store and try to match it up the best you can, should be able to get pretty close. If not, then use a sheet metal screw as close as possible to original screw like you have mentioned as a last resort. Just make sure it's nice and snug - don't over tighten, as you may have to replace it again in the future.

2) And I have to put the burner back. To remove it I took out two screws and pulled it off a small tube. Is putting it back just the opposite? That looks too easy. Why doesn't gas come out of the big openings that I suppose there to draw combustion air in?

Should be. Just reverse the process. The reason gas does not come out is because of the ovens' igniter built in safety device as hammerlane explain above. The following excerpt is from GEs' website; What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame. Once the set temperature is achieved the control stops all power to the ignition circuit which causes the ignitor to dim and the oven gas valve to close, stopping any burner flame. Cycling on and off continues to maintain the specific temperature the control is set for.

I have the new part on order. Thanks for your help.
Your welcome. Hope everything works out for you. Just a suggestion, contact GE and tell them the problem, maybe they will send you another one free of charge. Then you will have a back up in case it happens again in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience with the forum.

Last edited by jmon; 11-12-2013 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-14-2013, 03:47 PM   #10
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My NG oven is dead! Help please


On the one hand the screw is just a 10-32. I retapped the hole and a bolt fits just fine.

On the otherhand I debated between buying the genuine part for $65 or a generic for $25 and decided it was a big enough pain that I would spend the extra $40 and ordered the genuine.
They shipped the generic!
The photo on their website shows the genuine part and the genuine box.
ARGH

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