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Old 01-14-2011, 06:09 PM   #1
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


We have a 10 year old Kitchenaid slidein range (YKESC307HB4) with a front electronic timer panel.

A few weeks back the hidden bake element died. After replacing it with a new one, it still didn't work. I traced the lack of 120 vac on that element leg (other leg was ok) to the timer panel -- just after the bake relay at the Molex plug. The printed circuit foil at the plug had ruptured when the element shorted out. It seems apparent that that piece of pc foil was an integrated type of fusible link.

Rather than spend huge bucks on a whole new panel, I just soldered in a jumper wire across the burned out section. The stove seems to work well now.

But I am bugged by the fact that there is no longer any protection in the event another short happens.

What I am thinking on doing is to make up a fusible device (glass buss fuse?) and insert it at the Molex fitting. But I need to know what the proper type and size of fuse to put in there. The schematic makes no reference to any protection ..except to just replace the panel board!

Fyi, the 2500 watt element measures at 27 ohms.

Appreciate some good feedback on this please.

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Old 01-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #2
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


If you could figure out the size of the wire needed for the fuse link, you could do that. Otherwise, you would have to get a small enough drill bit to drill the holes for the fuse holder. You could pick one up at Radio Shack, and try various sizes of fuses starting at the very smallest, then work up as the small one blows, until you get to the proper size. Could be a 1 amp, could be a .5 amp, you never know.

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Old 01-14-2011, 08:34 PM   #3
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


I would think a starting point would be about 20 amps if: 2500w/120v, but if instead using 2500w/240v=10 amp fuse? Otherwise, trial and error would seem crazy as it would mean opening and closing the timer panel constantly to find the blow point, and at the higher end values it could take several events to finally trigger it. No, I am looking for some practical experience here -- thanks.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:29 PM   #4
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


Not on the circuit board. The circuit would be lessor. Only the circuit back to the breaker would be 20 amps max if just for the circuit board, and not a Electric heating element. BTW, the proper way would be to purchase a new circuit board, because just adding the fuse as you think is the proper way, is not how to fix it.

You are welcome to do what you think is correct, but don't come back stating that your stove caught on fire, and you don't know why.
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:11 AM   #5
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


Usually when they have some type of current limiting device on the control it's to save the control...this control is nla so i wouldn't worry about it..if fuse hadn't popped, the relay contacts probably would have fused, resulting in runaway temp once bake unit was replaced-you would have smelled burned chicken/pizza??? if you want to do something;turn oven on and using an amp probe-see what current draw you're getting and fuse accordingly..
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:16 AM   #6
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


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Not on the circuit board. The circuit would be lessor. Only the circuit back to the breaker would be 20 amps max if just for the circuit board, and not a Electric heating element. BTW, the proper way would be to purchase a new circuit board, because just adding the fuse as you think is the proper way, is not how to fix it.

You are welcome to do what you think is correct, but don't come back stating that your stove caught on fire, and you don't know why.
I understand what you are trying to put across. But buying a new board ain't gonna happen as that cost would represent over 1/3 the price of a new range! I think it's rediculous to go to that expense due to a common faulty bake element
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:39 AM   #7
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


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Usually when they have some type of current limiting device on the control it's to save the control...this control is nla so i wouldn't worry about it..if fuse hadn't popped, the relay contacts probably would have fused, resulting in runaway temp once bake unit was replaced-you would have smelled burned chicken/pizza??? if you want to do something;turn oven on and using an amp probe-see what current draw you're getting and fuse accordingly..

I tend to agree. One of the first items I looked at was the relay for bad contacts ..before detatching the board and turning it over to the pc side -- that's where the burnout was discovered.

As for run away temps, the maker says the panel is says it's smart enough to register an error fault for overtemp. But donno if it still works now with my patch.

If I can get more feedback without having to run out and buy a one-time-use clampon ammeter that would be nice.




In older ranges (and some new basic units), there are standalone fuses that protect the stove's wiring, etc. So as an alternative route, it would be interesting to get some values of those fuses according to their applications. Even better would be some model numbers and a few schematics ??
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Old 01-15-2011, 12:42 PM   #8
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


I figured up the cost when the circuit board went bad on my stove, and paying the $150 for a new board was cheaper, than going out and getting a new stove, same when the transmission went out on our wash machine, which was $180. It was a whole lot easier than trying to figure out what went bad, and then try to find the part. Sometimes you have to weigh the costs vs. trying to over engineer the situation.
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:10 PM   #9
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


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Originally Posted by Daler View Post

Fyi, the 2500 watt element measures at 27 ohms.

Appreciate some good feedback on this please.


There could be a slight variation of real world results due to a difference in rated voltage and actual supplied voltage.
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:09 PM   #10
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


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I figured up the cost when the circuit board went bad on my stove, and paying the $150 for a new board was cheaper, than going out and getting a new stove, same when the transmission went out on our wash machine, which was $180. It was a whole lot easier than trying to figure out what went bad, and then try to find the part. Sometimes you have to weigh the costs vs. trying to over engineer the situation.

Well, a little more expensive here in Canada ..distributor wants 5 bills and no warranty 'cause I ain't a local pro. This is a DIY forum and I tend to fix everything that has any possibility of being fixed by me -- usually I'm successful, with the right knowledge.

However, I take your point and realize that there would be some wear and tear on the whole board over the years due to heat, so..
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:16 PM   #11
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


It is some times that you have to sit down and figure. The stove IS over 10 years old, so it has pretty much paid for itself twice over. I would keep an eye out on the sales, and depending on how close you are to the border, there is always the sales over here. I am just throwing this out to you. Depending on which board you have, it looks like it ranges anywhere from $200 to $307 U.S. http://www.repairclinic.com/Circuit-...7HB4-%3d%3dc13
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:31 PM   #12
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


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It is some times that you have to sit down and figure. The stove IS over 10 years old, so it has pretty much paid for itself twice over. I would keep an eye out on the sales, and depending on how close you are to the border, there is always the sales over here. I am just throwing this out to you. Depending on which board you have, it looks like it ranges anywhere from $200 to $307 U.S. http://www.repairclinic.com/Circuit-...7HB4-%3d%3dc13

Thanks for the tip My wife also suggested getting a new stove. But it still looks great and something as stupid as this problem is, I will keep trying to self-solve this problem for now.
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:51 PM   #13
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


You DO know that she probably has a model & color already picked out. You never know, you may come home from work someday and she may have a new oven in the old one's place.
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Old 01-15-2011, 05:42 PM   #14
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You DO know that she probably has a model & color already picked out. You never know, you may come home from work someday and she may have a new oven in the old one's place.
I very much doubt ..we're equal partners in crime
We're also retirees and early adopters of austerity.
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Old 01-15-2011, 05:49 PM   #15
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Kitchenaid range fusing?


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There could be a slight variation of real world results due to a difference in rated voltage and actual supplied voltage.

I like it! ..but can the peak amperage be calculated in each leg of 120 vac into the 2500 watts, or must the full 240 vac be divided into the 2500 watts? -- there are two 120 vac legs going to the element. This may help in determining a fuse rating.

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