Kenmore Oven Broiler Kaput...need top fix

downdraft

HELP!

My Kenmore electric stove's broiler element burned out...i.e. like "whamo!" This element is located in the upper level of the oven...the lower element checks out OK with VOM. The oven Model Number is 790 94339700.

The stove-top burners work, as do other 120 volt assessories.

By the way, the 220 v circuit breaker for this circuit did not "trip".

I turned off the circuit breaker, disconnected the 220 v line from the wall socket, removed the oven door, checked the bottom element (OK), removed the upper blown element, ordered another element for this model (made by Frigidaire), installed it. , and reinstalled the oven door . Then I reconnected the circuit breaker at the service panel and then the wall line.

I turned on both the oven switch, and then the broiler switche and nothing, zilch, nada...but it did not "blow" the new element...just nothing...however, I did hear a slight "click" when I activated each control...as tho some sort of internal circuit or relay was denying engagement of power when I attempted to activate the controls.

The oven and bake icons light up, but no heat.

I looked at the schematic and noted no such “relay”…I’m only fair at reading schematics but had some training in the Air Force. (I was a Radio Maintenance Officer…so I didn’t get too much hands-on practical application with that training)

When I initially removed the back panels to access the element wires I did not see anything else that was burned or loose etc. Again, the only thing "burned" was the broiler element, almost severing it close to the tip of one side…so I suspected either a direct short somewhere, or a element that just gave up and quit.

(The element "blew" when my wife went to toast a bago...she turned on "Broil", opened the door and placed the bago in, and it blew when she closed the door again.)

It would seem to me the circuit breaker would have tripped when the element blew.

All other 220 v appliances in the house are still getting power (i.e. electric cloths dryer).

TarheelTerp

Start with the known bad broiler element.
You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.

The part is probably in stock locally.

downdraft

"Start with the known bad broiler element.
You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.

The part is probably in stock locally. "...????

I noted in my initial text that I replaced that bad element with a new one, but neither the oven nor the broiler came on...there was a light "click" as I switched from Oven to Broil...but no cigars!

Do you think the "click" is a relay?

THNX

downdraft

Start with the known bad broiler element.
You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.

The part is probably in stock locally. "

...????
I noted in my initial text that I replaced that bad element with a new one, but neither the oven nor the broiler came on...there was a light "click" as I switched from Oven to Broil...but no cigars!

Do you think the "click" is a relay?

THNX

hardwareman

you have an electronic control board on your range, correct? You set your bake and broil through this control board, correct? If that is so then the relays are built into that control board, sometimes when elements burn out they will short out a component of the control board. You will have to replace your entire control to fix your range. Yours will run about $120.00

__________________
................."I want a house that has gotten over all its troubles. I dont' want to spend the rest of life bringing up a young and inexperienced house"...........

downdraft

Is there any way to test the EOC which appears to be a printed circuit, with a few possible removalbe attachments?

My question is as such because I wouldnot want to purchase a new board only to discover it might be something else, and then have the new board and element both go...

Looking at the schematic I don't recognize any "connectables" to it, so I'm inclined to agree with you.

hardwareman

the only thing you can do is check to see if you are getting 220 volts to either element, I assume you are not. If you trace the bake and broiler circuits on the wiring diagram you will see that both get their voltage from the relays on the board. You have a bad board.

__________________
................."I want a house that has gotten over all its troubles. I dont' want to spend the rest of life bringing up a young and inexperienced house"...........

downdraft

I agree...but one more question: Why did the circuit breaker for this
220 V circuit not trip?

Thanks for your kind attention

Protocol.

When relays blow up they will usually blow up open or closed.

You can quickly check the element with an ohmmeter to see if it's still good or not (element needs to be isolated).

What tells you that the element is blown? I see that you say it severed. Was there burn marks on the case? Sometimes the relays will internally fail.

downdraft

Yes, Ive checked both elements, Bake and Broil, and there is continuity and a satisfactory Ohm reading...the Broil element busted open close to the tip...no burnmarks were on the connecting wires...

According to the schematic relays L1 seemed to acommodate both elements...but if they are good, being part of the Electronic Oven Control panel would be hard to measure whether they are OK...there is still 240V at the socket

TarheelTerp

If you have 240V at the socket then power has made it through the controls.
If you can pass that power to the element that has continuity... it should heat up.

Something you're reporting isn't as it appears.

Protocol.

Do you have a wiring diagram or schematic you could post? It sounds like the relay on the board. L1 and L2 together will run both elements. either L1 or L2 and the neutral will typically run your electronics (@120v)

Have you removed the board (carefully) and inspected the board for any damage? Have you checked the wiring for damage? Have you checked continuity from the element wires back to the board or wall? Remember, you need to isolate the component before testing it.