HELP - No Water to Ice Maker
 

I have a Kenmore Coldspot refrigerator. The ice maker was not working. I removed the module, found a broken plastic part, and decided to replace the entire ice maker unit - I thought that would solve the problem. However, the new unit won't fill with water.

The unit itself has power - the cover's removed and I can see the wheel spinning, indicating to me that the unit's cycling correctly. It just appear that the something's not triggering the maker to fill.

None of the lines are frozen and water reaches the valve. I removed the valve and powered it - the solenoid actuates when powered.

The temp in the freezer is low enough - was 14 degrees when I checked.

All the electrical lines appear connected and intact.

What next? Could a fuse or the thermostat be the culprit? Any ideas?

Have you verified that water is coming OUT of the valve?

With my GE, with water in the door, there were multiple valves and the valve for the line going to the icemaker was the only one not actually working.

Initial valve would operate, valve for door water would operate, but the icemaker valve would not.:censored:

Yes. The valve only controls water to the ice maker. I powered the valve separately from the fridge and got water.

Doesn't anyone have an idea as to why my ice maker won't fill?

The valve works when jumped and sufficiently fills the ice maker - so no valve problem or clogs in the water lines.

The cycle initiates on its own when the temperature drops - so no thermostat problem. The ice maker cycles and does everything BUT open the valve.

What's the deal??? Please help. I've already spend $100+ on a new ice maker and countless hours troubleshooting this thing. I will not let it beat me!!!

Well, we were pushing the extent of my icemaker knowledge to begin with...:laughing:




Quite obvious there's no voltage being delivered to the valve. But where the problem lies, and how to track it down, is beyond me.

This one may well call for a service call...

Wondering what solved the problem here. I would have tried dropping the freezer temp. Most if not all are supposed to be 15 deg or lower for im to work. !4 deg a little close. I usually like to set the temp somewhere between 0 and 10. 0 if I want icecream to be frozen hard.

Calling the repair guy - that's what solved the problem. He agreed with what I had done so far. We were getting good voltage at the valve, but for some reason the valve was only working when jumped. He replaced the ice maker and then the valve. Seems like the valve was the problem. I could buy a lot of ice for the total cost of this project.

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That tells me that the trouble was bad switch in the icemaker that sends power to the valve.

How? I was getting 120 at the valve when the ice maker cycled.

How did you check the inlet valve? Volt meter at the wires going to it? They can be sending power to the inlet valve, but if the valve is not making up inside, it cannot work. If you still have the valve, take an ohm meter if you have one and see if you get a reading (continuity) across the terminals on the valve.

I'm thinking icemakers have micro switches inside them also that sends the power to the inlet valve. I may be wrong on that. Its been a long time since I did any work like that. Actually did little with icemakers, mostly ref's, washers and dryers. But, I do know that solonoids such as the inlet valve can receive power and not work if the coil has no continuity. In other words the circuit is broken inside the solonoid.

I should have went back and read that part. It is what me say what I did about a switch inside the icemaker. Wait a minute. You said you were getting power to the valve when the icemaker cycled. Then you say the valve only worked when it was jumped. Jumped as in a cheater wire from an outlet touched to it to give it 120? Sorry, i'm a little confused.

I checked and some icemakers have as many as 3 micro switches that send power to different components.

I took the solenoid valve out of the fridge and applied 120. It worked.
I left the solenoid valve in the fridge and jumped it by shorting it at the ice maker. It also worked - albeit inconsistently.

I thinik it you maybe had both a micro switch and a solonoid going bad. I'm thinking one made the other go out or work intermittingly due to internal arcing/power surge or something of the sort.