Fridgaire Gas Dryer Issue
 

I recently purchased a dryer of of kijjii and had someone install a gas line and i used the thing maybe 3 or 4 times, i went to the back of the unit today and installed a few clamps on the back to secure the hose and tried to use the dryer again and for whatever reason i get nothing. The thing is probably 5-6 years old. I checked the breaker and the made sure all cables were secure. Everytime i press the start button i get nothing. Any ideas or suggestions? im not an electrician but im hoping its not something too serious. Possible problem with the starter? not get anything after i press it.

thanks for your help.

model number
 

by the way FGR231CAS1 is the model

Hard to say without doing any sort of checking.

Is the gas turned on? Is there power? Are you getting power to the switches? Are you getting power to the gas valve?

yup gas is on, checked the breaker. It was working and now suddenly isn't
 

yup gas is on, checked the breaker. It was working and now suddenly isn't

Door switch?

possibly but
 

doesn't look like any damage there. but how can you tell?

[quote=Vman94;1017645]doesn't look like any damage there. but how can you tell?[/qu

your not going to be able to tell by looking at it. You will need an ohm meter to check for continuity. Other possible problems would be the timer, or the thermal fuse

did you mean door catch or door switch?
 

is it that little plastic thing the dryer latches into to. The metal piece that goes into it. Or that little button with a spring that pushes in and out?

The metal part is the latch; the spring loaded button is the switch.

so check the latch and the thing it goes into?
 

so check the latch and the thing it goes into?

Well check the latch, but the switch is a push button, usually on opposite side of opening from catch.
Some door switches make a click when pushed, if you hear the click the switch is probably OK. But not hearing it does not mean it is bad. An ohm meter is best way to check switches and timers, battery powered continuity checker can also be used. Cheap tools. Meters in $20 range, HD Radio Shack. Or for simple continuity checks and testing batterys Harbor Freight ( Their motto; "Where the customer is quality control") has a meter for $5. Or even free, if you have coupon from weekly insert ads. Which is why I have some. A pair of alligator clips that slip over meter probes 89 cents and a pair of 3' long alligator clamp test lead/jumper wires $1.89. ( once you're sure meter is working, use it to test the leads- "Where customer is...) You can now test all electricals on your dryer. ( Call 911, I've been stoned by other members for even mentioning HF.)
Here is site that has diagrams of your dryer
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedMo...&SourceCode=11
And their list of parts most likely to be cause of problem, which I don't agree with, judging by price, I think it is parts they most want to sell. They don't even mention thermal fuse.
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedMo...=202325&PID=40
( $20 door catch? You already been told that's not problem.)
Here's nifty video how to get into dryer and better list of parts to check ( no thermal fuse again); http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHe...art-FGR231CAS4
Edit: I just watched entir vid, it don't tell how to get into a back control panel. But there is also a vid about how the dryer works and what can go wrong, and they say they got videos about how to test parts.


Kwik test on switch, with door open, hold switch all the way in, turn on dryer, if it starts, button is just worn down, or switch out of position or loose. May be able to correct by reinforcing or repositioning switch or padding out door. Or $20 catch not holding door tite enuff, hmmm.... If dryer still not starting kwik test does not indicate if door switch bad or good.

Hardwareman gets nervous when I tell people they can test switches, fuses, relays etc. by jumping across them, but if you have insulated, clip on, hands free jumpers, its resonably safe. It is done with power on, dryer plugged in, so can be a shocking experience if your not careful. So be careful. If you've never done it, don't. I've done it with just a piece of wire, but then i check for gas leaks with a lighted match. ( For hardware's benifit; Don't do that either.)

[quote=notmrjohn;1017777]

Hardwareman gets nervous when I tell people they can test switches, fuses, relays etc. by jumping across them, but if you have insulated, clip on, hands free jumpers, its resonably safe. It is done with power on, dryer plugged in, so can be a shocking experience if your not careful. So be careful. If you've never done it, don't. I've done it with just a piece of wire, but then i check for gas leaks with a lighted match. ( For hardware's benifit; Don't do that either.)[/quote

:censored::censored::censored::censored::censored: :censored::censored:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I once knew a very qualified very professional service tech who was testing a dryer switch with the power on, long story short he some how shorted across the two wires accidentally, 120 volts, shot up his arm into his brain and immediately killed him. So yeah I get a little nervous when someone like you( obviously not a professional servicer) tells the average joe diyer ( that obviously knows even less because he doesn't even know what a door switch looks like) to do live voltage test, jumper relays and switches and to play with open flames and gas. Just plain irresponsible and stupid. If i had admin powers I think I would be tempted to ban you from posting anymore.

Hardware man, I ain't gonna tell no one to do that nomore. Honest. I keep forgetting that some people can't tell when I am not being serious. Even when, to me at least, it seems ludicrous. Not every one has a test bench, remote switches, insulated jumpers etc, or knows to make connections with power off, then stand well back and then turn power on. I'm not even going to tell folks how to do that or how to make test bench.
the rodent got you red button.
Peace?