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Old 09-17-2008, 09:18 PM   #16
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Dryer vent with 4" PVC pipe


The standards revolve around the legal interpretations of "what would a prudent man do".

In most claim situations this relates to " Homeowners duties after a loss:
1. contact the carrier in a timely manner 2. Mitigate the damage so additional damage does not occur. 3. Allow carrier to inspect damage ...etc..."

Your neighbors case...well lets just say it had nothing to do with what a prudent man might do.

Sounds more like a timer for a bomb.

For you and your neighborhood I hope this guy had some knowledgeable help for the restoration. ( Did you see a permit posted?)

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Old 09-19-2008, 08:39 PM   #17
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I am venting my dryer this weekend too into my attic and I was also wondering what to use for the ductwork, now I know thanks to this handy thread.
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Old 09-19-2008, 09:11 PM   #18
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wedge22,

I hope you mean you are running metal duct through the attic and out the roof or soffit...right? You are not going to put all that hot humid air in your attic...right?
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Old 09-19-2008, 11:25 PM   #19
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I am going to run the ducting through the attic and out of the side of my house, I do not want to cut any holes in my roof.
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Old 09-19-2008, 11:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge22 View Post
I am going to run the ducting through the attic and out of the side of my house, I do not want to cut any holes in my roof.
Good thinking. Big Bob was right in being concerned about venting into, and not just passing through, the attic.

Just don't run too far with it. A maximum of 25' of pipe is a rule of thumb (and code), with 90* elbows counting as 5' deductions, and 45* elbows counting as 2-1/2' deductions. Many modern dryers will push farther, so if you need to go farther check your dryer's instructions. If you pipe it too far, you're begging for a fire, not to mention poor performance.
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Old 09-20-2008, 12:23 AM   #21
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Thanks for the info regarding the maximum length to run the dryer venting, I did not know this. I only require one bend so thats good. I believe the distance is approx 16 feet with one bend so its all good. I guess I can use exactly the same metal ducting as I used the other day for my bathroom extractor fans? Also the first piece of ducting into my attic will be flexi as its attaching to the dryer.
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Old 09-20-2008, 01:45 AM   #22
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Yes, 4" metal (not flexible) duct is appropriate. I'd advocate using heat tape and a lot of force to hold it together, as screws will just catch lint and allow it to build up.

Flexible connectors are ok right behind the dryer, but use flexible aluminum ones...Not the plastic or foil springy type.
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Old 09-20-2008, 10:27 AM   #23
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I will be using non flexible metal duct all through the attic space and will only need around 3 feet of flexible pipe at the start of the ducting from the back of the dryer, it will be the good stuff too.As far as screws go I had not thought of this, that means I need to do a really good job of crimping, better buy myself a crimping tool then. What is heat tape?? I intend to strap down the ducting to some of the joists in the attic too so it will be secure.
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Old 09-20-2008, 10:49 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
Yes, 4" metal (not flexible) duct is appropriate. I'd advocate using heat tape and a lot of force to hold it together, as screws will just catch lint and allow it to build up.

Flexible connectors are ok right behind the dryer, but use flexible aluminum ones...Not the plastic or foil springy type.
I usually agree 110% with Mr. KCTermite, and do so again.

Wedge 22, understand that the flex AL is at connection only ( elbows).

I agree screws are problematic ( lint catchers), HERE COMES THE , BUT

(and please correct me if I have missed a code change or addendum)

I believe mechanical codes require 3 screws at each round metal duct connection and I am not aware of exclusion for dryer vent ducting. (if exclusion does not exist, maybe it should ?)

Looking forward to the Mechanical contractors pipping in. (Pun intended)
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Old 09-21-2008, 12:20 AM   #25
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PoP rivets work very well instead of screws.
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Old 09-21-2008, 12:39 PM   #26
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PoP rivets work very well instead of screws.
Yes they do! I have two guns... if I could only find them.. They hide until I buy a new one...
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:36 AM   #27
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So I have installed as much venting for my dryer as I can, I just need to get some ladders so I can reach the outside of the house and use my new sawzall to make a hole for the vent. I only had to use one piece of flexi and one 4" straight duct to reach the outside wall and I am coonecting everything with the clamp connectors so I have no screws in the ducting itself.
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Old 09-22-2008, 05:39 PM   #28
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wedge22,

I'm glad this is going well and the end is insight for you.

I'm sure your connections will work fine for you. My take on the code requirement for all round metal duct having three mechanical fasteners is...to protect you and your duct from the cable guy.

someone in your attic might kick or dislodge the connection (thus separating the duct) a very easy thing to do in dark cramped quarters.
Of course anyone that did that would fix what they damaged or tell you about it...right.

Just in case (you get a shy not equipped to fix what they broke type) in your attic ... you might want to take a peek and be sure all is well.
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Old 09-22-2008, 07:04 PM   #29
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Dryer vent with 4" PVC pipe


Just to be the devils advocate! I'm of the impression that dryer duct should be/is to cleaned annually.
Any time that I have cleaned mine, its easily taken care of by removing the screws and disassembling the sections.
Lint has always been coated all over the inside and screws were not a factor.
Fabric softeners are the culprit, to my mind!
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Old 09-22-2008, 07:24 PM   #30
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My daughter had sent me this in an email months ago.

http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/dryer.asp

wash them screens

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