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Old 11-22-2012, 07:45 AM   #1
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Taking out old one i found copper water line connected at the front left. What are the chances new one will be in same location? Also silestone counters have tabs installed to take dw screws. If i have to relocate those what do i need to drill the fake granite? Or would epoxy hold them well enough

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:46 AM   #2
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You can find the installation documents for almost any appliance online. You might want to check the locations of the water inlet and the mounting tabs before you buy the new one.

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:58 AM   #3
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Too late. New one coming tomorrow!
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:14 AM   #4
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Water is usually at the front corner. I recommend replacing the copper with a 3/8" DW braided flex line.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #5
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Mounting the machine----many new machines have alternate mounting slots on the sides of the machine--allowing you to screw into the wood face frame of the cabinets instead of the usual counter top mounting--

As to the water line----see where that copper water feed comes from----I would change that to a modern stainless braided line----the newer machines will have the feed on the left---but fitting the old copper may be more trouble than adding a new line---
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #6
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Thanks, guys.... I had planned to use a SS braided flex until I saw the copper in there. Good to know that the braided flex seems to be the method of choice so that's what I'll do. That'll make the job almost too easy. ;-) Also hope the new unit has side bracket locations mentioned by Mike. Likewise, that'll almost make the job too easy. Here's hoping....
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:42 PM   #7
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Pull up the installation instructions for your new machine---every machine with a stainless steel tub that I have installed in the last few years is was set up for side mounting---plastic tubs?? Not all--but some do--
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:47 PM   #8
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It's a Whirlpool Gold with SS tub. Too sleepy to research tonight so I will just deal with it when it comes in the AM. I am pretty confident I'll have what I need... and there is a Lowes literally across the street so I'll be good to go.

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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Pull up the installation instructions for your new machine---every machine with a stainless steel tub that I have installed in the last few years is was set up for side mounting---plastic tubs?? Not all--but some do--
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:49 AM   #9
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Old dishwasher out... piece of cake. I did have to run the rear legs up to get them to clear the tile. But the "rear" legs are really only a foot or so back from the front so I had no trouble reaching the adjustable feet. I thought they might have been all the way at the back which would have been a tough reach.

I did find the water supply source. There is a dedicated shutoff valve below the kitchen sink stop valves. It was hard to see until I removed the cleaning products.

Still not quite sure what to do with the water supply line. It looks to be 3/8" copper, about 4 feet long. If it reaches the supply connection on the new DW (not here yet) is it OK to reuse it? The undersink stop valve is in a tough location and the house has CPVC water lines (that stuff can be brittle) so I am reluctant to take a wrench to remove the copper line unless I have to. Hate to crack the CPVC and end up with a nightmare repair job.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:11 AM   #10
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Sure it's reuseable--however--the new machines are so low to the ground that hooking the short,stiff copper line may be a complete night mare---most plumbers connect the water line while the unit is out of the hole--laying on its back---

Before you decide---see if you can get a connection made with the tools you have.
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:31 AM   #11
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Got the waterline part figured out. I managed to remove the copper line (had to go buy a wrench since I forgot that one) so will use the adapter and ss flex line. easy peasy.

But I am having trouble getting the thing in on a test fit. It is hanging up on the door hinges. I am not sure but I think they might be bent, Not the best picture but those of you familiar with these things might be able to tell. I can't tell if they are supposed to be bowed out like that to make friction for the hinge or if all the plates should be flush? Both sides are identical and no sign of damage on the box...





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Old 11-23-2012, 11:54 AM   #12
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Measure your opening---is it a perfect 24 inches?

I can't tell from the picture if the door is out of whack----looks consistent from left to right---
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:11 PM   #13
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Yes, the opening is 24".

The black hinge arms rub on the galvanized parts that are bowed out and the bowed galvanized parts literally bend in as the door opens. The door does not operate smoothy. Very graunchy and tales a ton of effort to move.

Here's another photo showing how the misalignment almost makes the nylon cord walk off the pully it is on such a severe angle.

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Old 11-23-2012, 12:33 PM   #14
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And one final pic looking directly from the front. You can see how the bowed out galvanized frame and black hinge arm (hinge arm at bottom of pic) protrude past the door. And the total width to the bowed out hinge arms is 24 1/2". And when you open the door the hinge arms are pressed even farther out as they ride over the bowed galvanized frame so the width goes to more like 25".

I called them and they are going to bring out another next Friday. But my birthday surprise is spoiled. And I'll have to finish the work with a little dog pestering me.


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Old 11-23-2012, 01:38 PM   #15
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That's to bad----At least they are taking care of it---

Can you pick up the new one to speed things up?

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