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Old 07-16-2014, 07:36 AM   #1
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


I've wired my Ikea cooktop into a 30 amp breaker and the specs call for a 40 amp breaker. It turns on and heats up but not to full temp. Is that because of the 30 amp breaker.

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Old 07-16-2014, 12:36 PM   #2
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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I've wired my Ikea cooktop into a 30 amp breaker and the specs call for a 40 amp breaker. It turns on and heats up but not to full temp. Is that because of the 30 amp breaker.
Odds are pretty good that your wiring is heating up as well, 30 amp circuit likely has 10 gauge wire, 40 requires 8 gauge (larger if a long ways, as the wire runs, from the panel). Changing the breaker won't buy you anything, the resistance of the breaker will be 0 whether 30 or 40 amp and I believe you are encountering excessive voltage drop.
I think you are in the market for an electrician.

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Old 07-16-2014, 02:29 PM   #3
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


Better put 911 on speed dial.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:11 PM   #4
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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Originally Posted by Dock Sitter View Post
I've wired my Ikea cooktop into a 30 amp breaker and the specs call for a 40 amp breaker. It turns on and heats up but not to full temp. Is that because of the 30 amp breaker.
Depends on what you mean by "turns on and heats up"..

Is this a 4 burner model? You turning on all 4 burners? Or just one?

If its a 4 burner model and you're using just one burner, its probably not the breaker or the wire.

If its rated 40 amps on a single burner, do what the other guy said and put 911 on speed dial...
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:00 AM   #5
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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Is that because of the 30 amp breaker.
No.

A breaker is not a regulator and will simply pop when it hits its limit. A heating element is also not a regulator. 30 amps should be sufficient to run at least 3 burners at full load. Now you may run into trouble when you put the forth one on.

Underamping an appliance is not necessarily dangerous (provided you have installed the proper gauge wiring to support the given breaker.) The cook top will simply pull amps until it hits the breaker's limit at which point it will pop. In other words it will do exactly what it is designed to do... protect the wiring from excessive amperage.

That breaker however and its associated wiring will be pushed to its extremes and that is not what you want to do in the electrical business on a regular basis, so if the device calls for a 40 amp breaker then you really need to put one in. If you change the breaker however you MUST change the wiring to match the breaker you upgrade to. It DOES get dangerous when people change the breaker without increasing the wire gauge to match that new breaker.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:22 AM   #6
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


OPS, how do you know the burner does not get up to full temperature? That would seem to be pretty hard to know, unless you had long term experience with that particular cooktop.

As to the breaker, previous posts have pointed out that the breaker itself is only there to protect the wiring leading to your cooktop. So as long as you have 30A or higher rated wire, there is no problem using a 30A breaker, so long as you can live with the occasional trip of the breaker if you put all four burners on at once (probably a very rare occasion). You can also use a 30A breaker on 40A rated wire, as was pointed out by a previous post.

So maybe you can review the bidding, and tell us what size and type of wire you have.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:25 AM   #7
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


I would upgrade the breaker and wire gauge. Why? Because I usually use 2 burners and the oven when I cook on the weekend. Rather have a kitchen I can cook in, rather than ashes where I used to live.
Wire fires are deadly.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:33 AM   #8
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
OPS, how do you know the burner does not get up to full temperature? That would seem to be pretty hard to know, unless you had long term experience with that particular cooktop.

As to the breaker, previous posts have pointed out that the breaker itself is only there to protect the wiring leading to your cooktop. So as long as you have 30A or higher rated wire, there is no problem using a 30A breaker, so long as you can live with the occasional trip of the breaker if you put all four burners on at once (probably a very rare occasion). You can also use a 30A breaker on 40A rated wire, as was pointed out by a previous post.

So maybe you can review the bidding, and tell us what size and type of wire you have.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:45 PM   #9
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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I would upgrade the breaker and wire gauge. Why? Because I usually use 2 burners and the oven when I cook on the weekend. Rather have a kitchen I can cook in, rather than ashes where I used to live.
Wire fires are deadly.
Since its a 30 amp breaker on a 10 gauge wire instead of a 40 amp on a 8 gauge. Worse thing that happens is the OP has nuisance breaker trips. No fire hazard.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:15 PM   #10
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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Since its a 30 amp breaker on a 10 gauge wire instead of a 40 amp on a 8 gauge. Worse thing that happens is the OP has nuisance breaker trips. No fire hazard.
No, the worst thing that happens is that the breaker is old and 'frozen', that means it doesn't work.
What will really suck is when you tell the insurance adjuster that you were aware of the requirements.
Play by the rules, it is safer.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:49 PM   #11
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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No, the worst thing that happens is that the breaker is old and 'frozen', that means it doesn't work.
What will really suck is when you tell the insurance adjuster that you were aware of the requirements.
Play by the rules, it is safer.
This is the reason I like cartridge fuses. Fuses never stick.


That said, I feel the stove is safe as long as the wire is connected to the proper breaker as others have said. We have to assume the breaker works, otherwise why have them at all?

However the proper thing to do is run a new correct size line as per the stove's instructions and this is what I would do if I were you. The stove should be safe to use for now, but get things made right.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:15 PM   #12
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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Originally Posted by gmaint View Post
No, the worst thing that happens is that the breaker is old and 'frozen', that means it doesn't work.
What will really suck is when you tell the insurance adjuster that you were aware of the requirements.
Play by the rules, it is safer.
No different then if it as an old 40 amp breaker on a 8 gauge wire. And the breaker froze.
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:37 AM   #13
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


You are quite literally playing with fire. Listen to No. 2
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:52 AM   #14
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


Just another question about this.
What type of breaker box is this?

It does matter because some breaker boxes are prone to fire hazards.
Also known as defective.
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Old 07-19-2014, 07:58 PM   #15
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Cooktop on 30 Amp/Calls for 40 Amp


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No, the worst thing that happens is that the breaker is old and 'frozen', that means it doesn't work.
What will really suck is when you tell the insurance adjuster that you were aware of the requirements.
Play by the rules, it is safer.
This makes no sense. A 30 amp breaker might stick, but a 40 would never do that so it's better to play by the rules?

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