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Old 07-26-2013, 06:34 PM   #16
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villager missing on cylinder 5


You have already had the plenum off. Not much to replacing the injectors after that

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Old 07-26-2013, 07:24 PM   #17
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villager missing on cylinder 5


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Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
Plug, injector, vacuum leak, mechanical defect on that cylinder. Swap / replace plugs first. Measure the resistance of the injectors (they should be 10%). Spray carb cleaner to the intake to check for vacuum leak.
Spray a shot of carb cleaner at the 3 and 5 manifold connections. Leaks there will be taking in air only without fuel.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:22 AM   #18
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villager missing on cylinder 5


I haven't had the plenum off. Cylinder 3 and 5 injectors test bad on an ohm meter. Neither cylinder is firing. No wonder it was dying in traffic.

Guy said the book was five hours labor, plus two injectors. $688.55 total. I told him i'd call him back monday.

This is a very reputable shop.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:52 PM   #19
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villager missing on cylinder 5


Sorry mixed you up with the spark plug thread. That really is a reasonably price for a good shop. Here labor is around $100 an hour give or take.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:27 AM   #20
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villager missing on cylinder 5


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Originally Posted by Bigplanz View Post
Injector 3 and 5 are bad.
Bad as in dead or bad as in dirty and clogged? Of course it's a Ford, and for rear injector you have to remove plenum, sure.. Plenums are not that hard to remove though...

    • 1 Determine which fuel injector your Mercury Villager will need. This depends not only on the make and model, but also the engine size. Models made from 1993 to 1998 have a 3.0L VG30E engine and models made after 1998 have a 3.3L VG33E engine.

    • 2 Relieve the system fuel pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Remove the upper intake manifold if you are replacing a rear fuel injector. Unplug the electrical connectors for the fuel injector.

    • 3 Remove the cap screws and the cap for the fuel injector with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the fasteners with a socket wrench and pull the fuel injector out of the fuel rail. Discard the old O-ring seals and insulators.

    • 4 Install the new fuel injector with new insulators and O-ring seals. Use a torque wrench to tighten the fasteners for the fuel injectors to between 8 and 11 foot pounds. Torque the cap screws for the fuel injector to between 26 and 33 inch pounds.

    • 5 Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure and start the vehicle and check for fuel leaks.


Instructions

  1. Remove the Intake Manifold

    • 1 Drain the cooling system and relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the negative battery cable, the air intake duct, the IAC valve connectors, the throttle position sensor and switch connectors, and the EGR solenoid valve.

    • 2 Pull the EVAP canister vacuum and purge hoses, the vacuum hoses from the EVAP, the brake cylinder, pressure regulator and EGR tube. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Remove the distributor cap.

    • 3 Take out the three left bank injector connectors, the thermal transmitter, the ground harness, breather pipe and the upper manifold. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines and plug them with golf tees to prevent fuel spillage.

    • 4 Locate the right injector harness connectors and disconnect them as well as the fuel rail and injectors. Remove the coolant temperature switch harness connector and the water hose from the thermostat.

    • 5 Loose the bolts on the lower manifold in sequence. Remove the bolts and left the intake manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard it.

    • 6 Clean the mating surfaces by scraping the old gasket material and carbon deposits. Clean the surfaces with solvent and inspect them for damage.

    Install the Intake Manifold

    • 7 Put a new gasket in place and install the lower intake manifold to the engine. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: first pass-35 inch pounds; second pass-78 inch pounds and third pass 70 to 84 inch pounds.

    • 8 Connect the ECT sensor connector, the fuel supply manifold and the right bank injector connectors. Connect the fuel lines and then install the upper intake manifold. Put the breather pipe in position.

    • 9 Install the intake manifold ground cable, the thermal transmitter, the left bank injector connectors and the distributor. Reconnect the spark plug wires.

    • 10 Continue reconnecting all the components, reversing the order in which they were removed. Connect the negative battery cable to the terminal. Refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant.

    • 11 Start the engine. Check for fuel or vacuum leaks.

    Btw, never realized Villager and Nissan Quest were same cars. Go figure.

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Old 08-01-2013, 07:04 PM   #21
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villager missing on cylinder 5


One important aspect of diy is knowing when a job isn't diy. Paid for this one. Van runs great. They even fixed my loose gear shifter at no charge.
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:40 PM   #22
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villager missing on cylinder 5


I guess so. Not sure, why, but man is a man only when he makes his OWN decisions. I'd have DIY-d it. Not much to this.
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:32 PM   #23
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villager missing on cylinder 5


I'm ok with getting it done. I have a pretty good job. Cost/benefit calculations and all that. If I was broke I would have given it a shot. I replaced a starter in a parking garage a couple years ago because I had no choice. This go around I did.

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