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Old 01-10-2008, 11:53 AM   #16
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The oils longetivity has lot to do with the additives used. Synthetics come from crude, they just reshape the molecules and make them more uniform in size where reg dino oil has molecules of different sizes. I use either Mobil One, Royal Purple or Amsoil. Amsoil is hard to find so i mainly use RP, however if its not on sale when I need it, I use mobil one since its a little cheaper. I drive 110 miles a day like EcoDave. I switched to synthetic oil because I got tired of changing my oil every month. I mainly use royal purple and change my oil every 7500-8000 miles. The speed shop I go to swears by it. Bearings look brand new after a full race season. RP claims the oil is fine for 12-15000 miles but requires oil filter changes every 3000 miles. I just cut the difference and do it once at 7500. I just turned 114000 miles and my car runs just like it did new. The royal purple allows it to start easier in the cold temps, runs cooler in the summer, and I picked up 1.4 mpg as well.


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Old 02-10-2008, 10:15 AM   #17
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Synthetic Oil

You might want to try a Blended Oil of Petro/Sythe. Pennzoil has a good one; not as pricey as full Syn. (There are others)
3000 mile changes are good if you drive alot of city stop and go for short mileage. (The engine never reachs full operation temp for sufficient time) If you drive hiway or sustained speeds for long periods of time the engine temp cooks off alot of bad stuff and moister. This alone can stretch your oil life up to maybe 4000. I drive Hiway trips of 200 miles every monday and friday; thus about 80% of my mileage. I use the Blended oil and change on a 5000 basis, never had a problem. Now at 157,000 plus on 98 GM PU with 5.7 and she still runs great. Stay with recommended Viscosity.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:32 AM   #18
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What you could do is pour in the synthetic and change it out at the normal interval. When you change it, send a sample to Blackstone Labs in Indiana. For $20.00, they'll analyze it and send you a report. It'll tell you how the oil is performing, viscosity breakdown, additive breakdown and a comparison with other vehicles like yours. They'll even tell you what parts are wearing in your engine from the types and quantities of metals in the oil. I sent in a sample from my Ford powerstroke at 6000 mile oil change and they said that it was what would be expected at 4700 miles. You might find that you can run your oil for a long time if you are highway driving. The amount of suspended dirt in the oil will also tell you if the filter is doing it's job. Potentially you could have a really good oil thats failing because of a really crappy filter, or an oil that's very clean but isn't doing it's job anymore.
I know this almost sounds like an endorsement, but I don't have any connection. We started sending oil samples in from emergency generators that were geting old and they could tell us what to expect as far as repairs. When we did tear downs and inspections, it was pretty much as they said.
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:36 PM   #19
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If you're doing all highway driving you can go 4500 miles on dyno oil without a problem. Synthetic should go twice that without a problem. I'd change the filter at 4500 though.
I do all short distance driving as my commute is less than a mile and most of the places I need to go aren't much further. My vehicle rarely sees the highway so I run synthetic, change the filter at 3k miles then do an oil/filter change at 6k. I probably could go even further.

As far as filters are concerned don't cheap out and buy Fram, Purolator, etc or any of that garbage. Yes, Fram has lousy oil filters. On the other side of the coin it's a waste to go buy a $10 Mobile 1 or K&N filter, they don't do anything special. My favorite is WIX or NAPA brand which is re-labled WIX. There is a webpage around where a guy cut open a bunch of oil filters and wrote about what he found, excellent info if you can find it.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:03 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
I do all short distance driving as my commute is less than a mile and most of the places I need to go aren't much further.
You could save a ton of money if you skipped driving altogether on your commute and just walked.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:50 AM   #21
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Blackstone Laboratories will test your used engine oil and provide a detailed analysis and recommendations about oil and change intervals. They have a good reputation in the car enthusiast world. After getting our cars tested (it was @ $20) we drastically extended our change intervals so buying synthetic isn't such a hit to the pocketbook.

You choice of oil can depend on your application. My 1986 Volvo has 400,000 miles on it, and has synthetic in it since Day One. My 1994 RX-7 has a rotary and has to run standard oil. We run synthetic in our 2004 Subaru. We've tested them all more than once.

As for brands - we buy Castrol GTX for standard oil. For synthetics we buy whatever's cheaper: mobile 1 or syntec - but NEVER blends.

Oh, and try reading your owner's manual - some manufacturers will make specific recommendations about oils.


If I could only remember to THINK about what I was doing before I did it.
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