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Old 11-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #16
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Spark plugs seizing on high mileage engines:myth or fact?


yeah, got to fix that, as crud accumulates on electrodes and slowly kills spark. take some brake cleaner, and spray onto the plugs side engine head, to clean it well. then it will show itself, should there be any leaks. otherwise, you were right the first time - it's engine head problem. or, valve stem seals leak oil inside, but it's easy to spot on hot engine, on fwy. simply drive behind your daughter and ask her to step on it. if you saw grey cloud coming out tail pipe, you got it. Those are good engines, they should run into 150-160 000 miles without any issues.
Also, check coolant for oil droplets on dipstick and around radiator cap/neck.

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Old 11-12-2012, 08:22 AM   #17
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Spark plugs seizing on high mileage engines:myth or fact?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz
yeah, got to fix that, as crud accumulates on electrodes and slowly kills spark. take some brake cleaner, and spray onto the plugs side engine head, to clean it well. then it will show itself, should there be any leaks. otherwise, you were right the first time - it's engine head problem. or, valve stem seals leak oil inside, but it's easy to spot on hot engine, on fwy. simply drive behind your daughter and ask her to step on it. if you saw grey cloud coming out tail pipe, you got it. Those are good engines, they should run into 150-160 000 miles without any issues.
Also, check coolant for oil droplets on dipstick and around radiator cap/neck.
Here's the thing. The car was bought from the inlaws for $1750. I changed tran fluid/ filter/ gasket for $70 in parts. Tune up was $100 including plugs, wires and the thexton engine mover. New headlights for $60. One taillight for $50. New hoses are slated for summer 2013. I bought car cause first 60,000 miles were in it's first 2 yrs of life ( company sales car)and the last 10 yrs the mother in law put 35,000 miles on it. My daughter only drives it 25 miles a week. A lot of work I did(plugs/tranny) was to access condition of tran and engine as father in law would only tell me car was serviced every year. I bought cause tranny fluid looked good and engine ran fine. So I really don't want to invest too much more in a car that I want my oldest to drive for 2 yrs and my youngest to drive another 2 yrs. I want to keep it for a total of 4 years and the way the miles are being put on 6,000 miles. At least with new plugs wires and tran fluid car shouldn't let my daughter sit. BUT I will look into oil problem if it can reasonably be fixed. Tempted to epoxy dummy plug rather than pull throttle body to fix leak.

Last edited by toolaholic; 11-12-2012 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:48 AM   #18
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Spark plugs seizing on high mileage engines:myth or fact?


Plus a ac delco fuel filter for $12 and a 20mm long style wrench( one it's only uses gm fuel filters) for $14.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:39 AM   #19
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Spark plugs seizing on high mileage engines:myth or fact?


This has the potential to be fact.....

Obviously dissimilar metals - e.g. aluminum against steel/iron - can corrode together.

Spark plugs into aluminum heads is that exact scenario. Your mechanic was probably being cautious, assuming you may have no knowledge of when ( if ) the plugs were replaced in a car nearing 100K miles.

Who knows why, exactly, they all came out easily. Could have been recently replaced, the oil leak, anti-seize on threads, etc. When replacing, you can use anti-seize to help aid removal next time around, but use it sparingly, a little goes a long way. Bear in mind there's some who frown on that practice, as they seem to think/believe anti-seize inhibits a proper ground path, and spark efficiency can suffer.

Oil on threads can come from a couple areas, chances are the rocker covers. I'm not familiar with that engine, so I don't know if plugs go in from the top - like a GM 4 cylinder, or in from the side like on your age old Chevy small block. If they go in from the top, a "quasi-hemi" setup, there'd be gaskets under the cover in addition to one around the perimeter.

A bad valve stem/seal can also lead to oil on the plug threads, from the inside out. If the car puffs blue smoke upon startup after sitting for a while, that's most likely a bad valve guide/seal.

The Ford deal and broken plugs wasn't so much metal fusing together, rather the spec'd out plugs for those engines extended beyond the threads in the cylinder head. So what ended up happening was several plug threads being exposed in the combustion chamber, and over time they'd corrode and get all funked up that when trying to remove all that gunk acted as a wedge and the plug would break and/or threads in the head would strip.

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