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Old 10-07-2011, 06:43 PM   #16
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I believe that I can save you some $$. Bite the bullet, take it to the shop NOW, tell them what you have done so far, and let them fix it. Chances are, after waiting possibly several weeks to get the right carb kit from Sears, you will ultimately find that the local guys had it on the shelf the whole time, may have not even needed all of those parts, and would have sold them to you for less than Sears. The local guys will have your best interest in mind, and will very likely remember you the next time that you need something, whether this or something else. DIY is a good attitude and approach, and the only way to learn is to do, but there is a point at which it only makes sense to pay the piper, and the cost very often is less to hand them a check in the first place.


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Old 10-07-2011, 08:04 PM   #17
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I usually encourage anyone who want to try, to try. Every time a little more knowledge is gained. The one thing I recommend is not to change the settings, but he has already done that. Still, if he takes his time, he won't do much harm and can learn a lot. The worst case is taking the parts to someone with the unit in tow. Best case, he may actually get it running. I would recommend he learn how the carb functions before he starts. There are websites all over.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:50 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by DexterII View Post
Yes, the choke allows for a richer mix to get the engine started, and, once the engine has warmed up, the engine should run best with the choke open. Since the gas sounds suspect, I would start by removing any doubts there; drain the tank and carburetor bowl, blow out the lines if possible, and dispose of the old gas. Also remove and clean or replace the air filter. While the carburetor bowl is off, make sure that the float and needle move freely. Spray carburetor cleaner inside the carburetor to loosen as much crud as possible. Fill it with clean, new gas, install a new spark plug, and see what you have. If it still does not run properly, I would then try some Sea Foam in the fuel, and run it that way for at least 20 minutes or so, to see if it cleans out the carburetor. If that doesn't work, you may need to remove the carburetor, and clean it in more detail. It sounds to me as if it is a fuel problem, but, just to be sure, you may also want to remove the flywheel cover, inspect the magneto for rust, and lightly sand it with emery cloth, if necessary. I would also pick up some oil for it, so that once you do get it running, and warmed up a bit, you can drain the old oil and replace it.

When we choke open the engine should run best.We can also drain the old oil and replace it.
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:13 AM   #19
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There are needle adjustment screws on the carb. Before you play with them, note how many turns it takes to screw them in from the current position and write it down. Then start the engine and play with the screw under the float bowl. If it runs better choked, then the air/fuel ratio is off and it needs more fuel flowing into the motor. To make it run richer back the screw out. Try that and let us know!
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:16 PM   #20
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Change your gas, clean and re gap plug before replacing it, check oil, jets i. Carb might be seized so you could clean it out, and after you get it running fine every winter after the last snow put fuel stabilizer in it and switch the gas off and run all the rest of the gas out of the carb


reelangler is offline   Reply With Quote

choke problem , engine stalls out , snow thrower

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