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Old 05-10-2008, 11:17 AM   #1
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replacing magneto on tiller?


I've got an older Montgomery Ward 5hp roto-tiller, and it was running a couple years ago, but has sat for a while. I'm trying to get it going again, and it doesn't have any spark. (no spark by looking at the plug, removed, but grounded to the block, and no fun little jolt in your finger when holding the end of the plug wire with back of hand against block).

I took off the shroud and pull cable from the flywheel to expose the coil, and unbolted the coil to find that there is a small wire that goes from the flywheel to the magneto. There is no terminal on either side, so I'm not sure how to detach it to get the magneto off for replacement.

You can see the wire in the picture, peeking out of the shadow at 11 o'clock on the flywheel.

Any advice?
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Last edited by NateHanson; 05-10-2008 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:48 PM   #2
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replacing magneto on tiller?


That wire hooks to the condensor under the flywheel. Before replacing the magneto i would pull the flywheel and replace the points and condensor, this is most likely the problem. The point gap is set at .020 inch. Go ahead and replace the flywheel key while the flywheel is off, do not use a steel key it WILL damage the crankshaft. When you reinstall the magneto push it fully away from the flywheel and snug the bolts, turn the flywheel until the magnet is facing the magneto, insert a piece of a manilla file folder in the gap and loosen the magneto bolts. The magneto will pull to the flywheel, then tighten the bolts and remove the folder. Check for spark.

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Old 05-10-2008, 10:59 PM   #3
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replacing magneto on tiller?


Thanks Jimmy. I stopped by my local small engine shop for parts and advice because there's an old guy there that knows everything. His name is "Putt". No joke.

Anyways, they're out of the coil I need, but it's coming in on Tuesday. He said the new part has electronic ignition, so you can just cut the wire that goes to the points, and then you don't need to bother removing the flywheel, and never need to worry about points again.

Sounds good to me.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:24 AM   #4
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replacing magneto on tiller?


Those electronic conversions are great, you will have just 1 wire on it and it goes to the kill switch, easy conversion. The part about the magneto to flywheel gap with the manilla folder will still work.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:31 AM   #5
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replacing magneto on tiller?


This tiller just has a piece of metal attached to the block that you push over onto the top of the plug, to short the ignition to the block, and stop the motor. Will I need to wire an actual kill switch to make this electronic conversion work?
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:09 PM   #6
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No, just insulate the end so it does not short on any thing.
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:34 PM   #7
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replacing magneto on tiller?


Thanks for your help Jimmy. Just to make sure I understand what you're saying - I'll cut and cap the old wire that comes from the points, and I'll ALSO cap the wire from the new electronic coil that's supposed to go to the kill switch? The motor will stop the same way it always did by shorting the spark plug wire to the block?
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:40 PM   #8
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Sorry I took so long getting back nate been out of town. Yes you have it right, and yes it should work the same way.
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Old 05-16-2008, 09:06 AM   #9
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No problem.

Got it hooked up on Tuesday and the tiller's running like a champ. Starts and runs like a new machine (and this thing must be 30 years old)
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:59 PM   #10
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replacing magneto on tiller?


Quote:
Originally Posted by NateHanson View Post
Anyways, they're out of the coil I need, but it's coming in on Tuesday. He said the new part has electronic ignition, so you can just cut the wire that goes to the points, and then you don't need to bother removing the flywheel, and never need to worry about points again.
Sounds great, guys. I've got at least 3 tools with those Briggs & Stratton motors on them. I was first considering switching a strong sparking magneto over from a fan but I didn't want to pull the whole flywheel to do the swap. Can you point me to the part number you ended up using?

Thanks in advance.

Andy

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